Tags Posts tagged with "Seafood"

Seafood

Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

For years, chefs, critics, and food writers have been telling us that red wines need to be paired with red meats and white wines with white meats or fish. This is what I call “The One Size Fits All,” concept and doesn’t take into consideration the multitude of recipes that fall “outside the box” and don’t adhere to the old “red with red wine and white with white” rules.

Some classic recipes that include fish cooked or served in a red sauce are spaghetti with red clam sauce, bouillabaisse (and other fish stews), baccalà (dried cod) in a rich tomato sauce, and lobster fra diavolo in a spicy tomato sauce. Besides these, there are hundreds of recipes for fish cooked in a red sauce and many are great paired with red wine.

Often, it is not the type of fish that determines which wine to drink, but the type of sauce, and the herbs and spices that have been used in the dish’s preparation. Fish can be poached, boiled, broiled, grilled, blackened, crusted, and so forth. It’s all about the texture of the fish after cooking. A poached fish is a simple dish that is silky tasting but lacks texture. The same fish blackened gives it a heartier texture that can stand up to a light-bodied, dry red wine.

Pixabay photo

A young, full-bodied, oaky, and tannic Cabernet Sauvignon pairs well with beef. Yet, paired with fatty, oily, or smoked seafood, the tannins in the wine react with fish oils producing a fishy, metallic, tinny taste, and aftertaste. It would be better to serve a young, fruity, light-bodied, higher-acid, dry red wine that is low in tannin.

Some red wines that pair with fish are Pinot Noir, Barbera, Bardolino, Gamay (Beaujolais), Grignolino, Carignan, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. These reds are also terrific with fleshier fish, such as tuna, shark, swordfish, and especially salmon. In addition, because they are in higher in acidity, oily fish like sardines, anchovies, mackerel, and bluefish also pair well with these wines. The acid helps balance the oils in the fish, similar to why we squeeze lemon onto fish.

Besides red wines, dry, crisp rosé wines like the wines from Provence and Tavel, France, and others made from Cinsaut, Grenache, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo grapes are great with shellfish (clams, oysters, mussels), scallops, shrimp, crab, and lobster. They are also pair well with a chilled shrimp cocktail sauce or mignonette served over oysters.

Don’t always follow the rules; create your own!

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

Whole Roasted Branzino

By Barbara Beltrami

Branzino/Pixabay

Branzino sounds so much more continental and interesting than sea bass, but in fact, it is the same fish.  Found in the waters off southern and western Europe, branzino has garnered great popularity on restaurant menus and in fish markets. Its flaky sweet meat pleases many palates and renders it adaptable to many preparations and cooking methods. Although it is often cooked and served whole, when filleted it’s also quite delicious. If you are buying the whole fish, look for clear eyes, taut skin and red gills which all indicate freshness. And cooking surfaces should always be well oiled to prevent skin from sticking.

Sautéed Mediterranean Branzino

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

4 branzino filets, bones removed, skin on

Coarse sea salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes

Finely grated zest from one lemon

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup chopped Italian flat leaf parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

DIRECTIONS:

Rinse the fillets in cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife score the skin with 3 diagonal slashes on each fillet, then season with salt and pepper. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil, then carefully lay fillets, skin side down, in the oil (Be careful of spattering oil). Cook 3 minutes, then carefully flip and cook another 30-60 seconds. 

Remove fish to a platter, tent with aluminum foil and set aside to keep warm. To remaining oil add the tomatoes, lemon zest, capers and olives; cook, stirring constantly, for one minute, then add white wine and cook another two minutes, until wine is reduced by half; stir in butter, parsley and basil and serve immediately with orzo or couscous.

Whole Roasted Branzino

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

Coarse sea salt and pepper to taste

4 whole 1 – 1 1/4 pound each branzini, cleaned

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

1/4 cup unflavored bread crumbs

Freshly squeezed juice of one large lemon

1/3 cup chopped Italian flat leaf parsley leaves

DIRECTIONS:

In a small bowl, combine oil, garlic, salt and pepper; set aside. Preheat oven to 425 F. Wrap the tail of the fish in aluminum foil; season fish inside and out with salt and pepper and rub inside cavity with half the thyme; brush all over with 3/4 of the garlic-oil mixture and place the fish, evenly separated, on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast fish until they are cooked through and flake easily with a fork, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the remaining thyme, bread crumbs and oil mixture. Coat top of fish with mixture and return to oven one minute, just until bread crumbs start to darken; remove fish from oven, sprinkle with lemon juice and parsley and serve immediately with lemon wedges and tiny roasted potatoes.

Grilled Branzino Fillets with Fennel

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

2 teaspoons za’atar

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 teaspoon fennel powder (fenugreek)

Four 8-ounce branzino fillets with skin on

1 tablespoon orange juice

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 garlic clove, bruised

1 fennel bulb cleaned and finely diced

1/2 cup chopped fennel leaves

1 orange, peeled, pith removed and diced

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat grill to medium. In small bowl combine half the olive oil, salt and pepper and fennel powder. Brush fish with mixture, then grill, skin side down, 3 – 4 minutes until skin is crisp; carefully turn and grill one more minute, just until it is white and flakes easy with a fork. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the remaining olive oil, salt and pepper, orange juice, lemon juice and garlic. Let sit a few minutes so garlic flavor can infuse mixture, then remove  and discard garlic. Toss diced fennel, fennel leaves and orange with mixture, then spoon over cooked fish. Serve immediately with rice pilaf.

The entrance to the new DJ’s Clam Shack in East Northport. Photo from Paul Riggio

Long Island’s second DJ’s Clam Shack is open and ready to serve.

“Bringing the seafood joint to East Northport was an easy decision,” said co-owner Paul Riggio. “We wanted to go to the North Shore, further east, and get more exposure.”

Originally founded 14 years ago in Key West, Florida, Riggio and his childhood friend, Jeff Gagnon, decided to expand the restaurant’s name to Wantagh three years ago. 

The East Northport location has a larger dining space. Photo from Paul Riggio

The original location is a hotspot down South, and has been featured on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”

Both men hail from Setauket and are graduates of Ward Melville High School. Riggio said the success of the Nassau County restaurant made them want to open up another, to get the name out to people who may not frequent the South Shore. 

“What’s different about the East Northport location is that we have a full liquor license, perfect for summer cocktails,” he said. In Wantagh, they only serve beer and wine. 

So, a few months before its opening, the duo took over the space at 1972 E. Jericho Turnpike and began planning. 

“We wanted to give it a Key West kind of flair,” Riggio said. “And we’re going to keep growing it little by little.”

Known for their lobster rolls, tacos, fried ship, clams, DJ’s is a causal seafood restaurant with “a laid-back kind of feel” that combines favorite seafood dishes from the north and south. On their menu, they feature New England clam chowder and Maine lobster rolls, also mahi-mahi, shrimp and roast pork tacos. 

The space is larger than its counterpart and features more room for socially distanced dining. Eventually the owners plan on adding outdoor dining.

“The community has come out to support us and they’ve been great,” Riggio said. “It’s a casual, fun place, with homemade food that’s always fresh.”