CLOSE
Tags Posts tagged with "Gardening"

Gardening

by -
0 1278
A bud on this rhododendron began to open in late September. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

There’s no doubt about it. It was a very dry summer. On average, we normally get three to four inches of rain each month. It rains once every three days. However, this past April, May, July, August and September, our prime growing months, have had substantially less rain than average. For example, April’s average rain is over four inches. This past April it was under two inches. August’s average is over four inches, but this past August saw just about an inch and a half of rain. Only June saw more rain than average. It’s been one of the driest years on record.

It’s also been a very mild autumn. “No Coat November,” as one meteorologist referred to it, gave way to a balmy December. As of this writing, mid December has broken two record highs. The weekend of Dec. 12 and 13 saw two 68 degree days, breaking the previous record highs.

Plants are definitely confused. A gardening friend of mine noticed that one of the buds on her rhododendron plants had actually bloomed. And her pussy willows are blooming as well. I’ve heard people comment that they saw their crocuses coming up. Another’s irises are up. My own tomato plants set fruit in November and my roses just finished blooming. It’s December and my geraniums are still blooming. Plants that were pruned in early autumn are putting out new green growth. And just Monday, I saw a cherry tree in bloom.

This cherry tree in Selden was in full bloom on Monday, Dec. 14. Photo by Ellen Barcel
This cherry tree in Selden was in full bloom on Monday, Dec. 14. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Why aren’t all of our plants growing? Some need more daylight, which we don’t have right now. Some need a period of real cold, like daffodils and other spring bulbs, and we just haven’t had that. And some just need the warmth, which we have had. What does all this mean to the home gardener?

• You may be able to leave root crops in the ground longer than normal, if there is no sign of a hard freeze. Watch the weather forecasts for a warning.

• If it continues to remain warm and dry, you may need to water some of your plants, especially evergreens, even though it is December. Remember, they’re still alive and, yes, they need water. Watch the weather for when you can finally put that hose away.

• Don’t expect spring flowering plants that have bloomed early — this autumn — to bloom again next spring (which is their regular time). Witch hazel usually blooms in late winter or very early spring. If yours has come out already, that’s it until the next year. That cherry tree I saw won’t put out more flowers again in spring.

• Plants that have sprouted tender green leaves this fall, may very easily have those branches die back once the really cold weather gets here. Don’t be concerned. Just prune back any dead branches in the spring.

• If your crocus have come out, they will probably survive winter’s cold. They frequently come out and bloom when there is snow on the ground, but don’t be surprised if they don’t make it.

• Mulch your tender plants in case the reports that suggest a mild and wet winter are not correct. After the last two snowy winters, most of us won’t mind mild weather, and considering how dry it’s been, rain would be welcome. Plants going into winter after a drought have a more difficult time surviving the cold.

One way to deal with occasional summer droughts and either very hot or very cool weather is to grow native plants that are more adapted to Long Island’s weather swings. Native trees, for example, generally have taproots that go deep into the soil, where it is moist, to get water in times of drought.

Native plants are also more adapted to swings in temperature. This doesn’t mean that in times of extremes all your plants will survive, but native plants have a much better change.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions and/or comments to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 276
A wind chime would make great holiday gifts for the gardener in your life. Stock photo

By Ellen Barcel

Well, the holidays will be here before you know it. Is there a gardener on your list who’s giving you a hard time? What do you get him or her that you haven’t given already? Of course, there are always gift certificates to your favorite nursery, new gardening shoes or a new tool. Gardening books and subscriptions to gardening magazines are nice, but are you looking for something unique? Different? Here are some ideas that you may not have thought of.

If your gardener has blueberries or other plants that birds love to dine on, consider a crop cage. The ones that I’ve seen range from $60 to $100. The cages are large enough that the gardener can actually walk into them — they even have doors. Made from steel and nylon netting, they protect from not only birds but deer, rabbits and other wildlife.

Smaller varieties, called popups, are lower, just 42 inches high and provide the same protection for smaller plants.  Both varieties are green, so they blend in with the rest of the garden but get the job done. These smaller varieties range from about $25 to $70 depending on size. Even smaller varieties of plant protection are just a foot high for even smaller plants like strawberries and lettuce. They cost about $20 each. Another really nice present if you’re gardener is doing battle with Bambi and friends is any one of the various deer repellents available.

Garden decorations are also available. Depending on the taste of your gardener, you could go classical (like Greek statues, sundials, bird baths or bird houses) or whimsical garden art, like statues of birds, colorful glass bottle trees, glass orbs or even glass flowers. One of my favorites is a set of three “flowers” made from old water spigots, painted in bright colors. Another is a flower made from knives, forks and spoons. Stop by your local arts and crafts fairs that flourish in December for a whole variety of garden art.

Being more practical, consider a new composter. I’ve seen one that is a tumbler, basically a barrel on a stand. There’s a side door that allows you to add material to be composted. There’s also a crank on the side that allows the gardener to turn the barrel easily, even every day. This makes the chore of turn over the compost pile really easy. It also speeds up the composting process. Some of these composters boast compost in just eight to 10 weeks. I’ve even seen one brand that has two separate chambers — one for almost ready compost and the second for a new batch you’re just starting.

For the mycologist (an expert in fungi), or just a mushroom lover, consider a mushroom growing kit. Grow the common button or even portobello mushrooms. The grower decides just how big or small their mushrooms are by how long they let them grow. A terrarium or unusual planter keeps greenery growing in the house.

For the lover of butterflies, consider a butterfly house to go along with the beautiful plants that attract them.

If you decide on a new potting bench, make sure you take some measurements first so that it will fit in the appropriate area. If the bench needs some sort of finishing, include a can of paint, stain, etc. and some brushes, perhaps with a promise to help come spring.

And, if your gardener comes in the house complaining of aches and pains from “overdoing” it in the yard, a new heating pad might make you an angel to them.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions and/or comments to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 259
Beryl Wood creates a centerpiece for the Sound View Garden Club’s Greens Sale. Photo by Ernestine Franco

By Ernestine Franco

Are you looking to add some natural elements to your holiday decorations? If your answer is yes, then the fourth annual Sound View Garden Club’s Greens Sale is the place to be. The Greens Sale will take place on Saturday, Dec. 12, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the second floor of the Sound Beach Firehouse.

Centerpieces, wreaths, swags and many other items all made from fresh, live natural materials will be available to adorn your homes. In addition there will be raffle items and a door prize. Light refreshments will be served.

All the arrangements have been made by the 30 club members, who meet monthly at the Sound Beach Fire House. Watching some of the members as they put together the arrangements is like watching artists at work. They take pieces of branches and bits of plants and dried flowers and create beautiful holiday pieces. The love and creative energy that goes into every piece is evident.

And their work is not done once the sale is over. As Ann Moran, president of the club and resident of Sound Beach, said, “The money we raise from the sale allows us to fund our other gardening projects, although like plants we go into a dormancy period until next spring.” The club may be only five years old, but it is very active in the surrounding communities.

Members maintain the garden at the Good Shepherd Hospice at St. Charles Hospital in Port Jefferson, a special place where hospice clients can sit and enjoy a peaceful natural corner filled with beautiful flowers and plants. “The landscapers did a great job when the hospice garden was first installed. But it is the continuing maintenance that we [the club members] are proud to provide that keeps it the inviting place it is and allows us to create a soothing garden,” said Ginny Drews, resident of Sound Beach. The annual flowers they plant at the hospice are purchased with the money raised at the Greens Sale.

Members also plant and maintain the flowers at the 9/11 Memorial of the Sound Beach Fire Department as well as the plantings at the Sound Beach Civic Association Veterans Memorial.

Beryl Wood, of Ridge, sees the garden club as a “lovely way for the members to get together and do some good for the community, and this club is one of the most cohesive clubs I have ever belonged to.” Wood is not only a club member —she also holds the position of accredited master judge with the National Federated Garden Clubs of America.

With some minimal care, all the plants in the sale will last well into the new year. So come to the Greens Sale and not only decorate your homes but support ongoing club projects. Admission is free and all are welcome.

The Sound Beach Firehouse is located at 152 Sound Beach Blvd., Sound Beach. If you have any questions, please call Ann Moran at 631-821-9650.

by -
0 1383
The November tomato flowers and tomatoes in the author's garden — notice fallen leaves in the background. Photo Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Late autumn is a great time to access your gardening successes and failures. It’s well into November as I work on this column. My tomato plants have been very weird this year. I’ve grown tomatoes for decades. I’ve never had trouble with tomatoes setting fruit, always having a bountiful crop (except when the tomato blight struck). That is, until this year when I had few blossoms and no fruit.

This was a new experience for me. So, that got me started researching why the fruit would not set. All the information I’ve been able to find gave me some hints, but, none really explained why, now, well into autumn, the plants are setting fruit. Yes, I’ve got at least a half dozen green tomatoes and many more blossoms. And I’ve noticed two other gardeners whose plants were covered in green tomatoes in late October.

So, first some basic information on tomato plants in general. The tomato, which is a member of the nightshade family, was developed in Mesoamerica. Having been developed in such a mild climate, it needs warm weather to grow successfully. While many other plants can be put out in early to midspring, experts recommend not putting your tomato plants out until Mother’s Day (mid-May), although my father always said Memorial Day (the end of May), because they are so tender.

Tomato plants do not need a second plant to provide pollen like, let’s say, a holly bush does. There you need at least one male plant in the area usually for up to four or five female plants. Nor do they have different male and female flowers on the same plant, the way squash does. Look carefully at squash and you’ll notice that the early flowers do not set fruit since they’re the male ones. Then the female flowers open and soon they are the ones to produce fruit.

The tomato flowers contain both the male and female organs in the one flower. Usually a gentle breeze or insects causes the pollen to fall so the flower can pollinate itself. People who grow tomato plants in the house or in a greenhouse must help their plants along, gently shaking the plant or providing a gentle breeze to release the pollen.

Now back to the tomatoes outside. So, why no fruit?

◆ First of all, always keep your plants healthy by providing adequate fertilizer and water. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, and healthy plants are more likely to bear fruit.

◆ When the day temperature goes above 85 to 90 degrees, the pollen is no longer viable. Optimal day temperatures for setting fruit is 70 to 85 degrees.

◆ To set fruit, night temperature should be above 55 but below 75 degrees. If Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate with the adequate temperature range, the plants will not set fruit.

◆ In very humid regions, the pollen may become very sticky. It therefore won’t fall through the flower.

◆ Tomato plants need six to eight hours of full sun. Plant in an area with too much shade and you don’t get fruit.

◆ Tomatoes also need lots of water. If you’ve ever experienced blossom end rot, cracks in the bottom of the fruit, it’s due to the soil drying out. So, while you don’t want to plant the tomatoes in a marshy area, you do want to make sure that they have a consistently moist soil.

◆ Fungal diseases, such as the tomato blight of recent years, can also be a problem.

◆ Determinate plants set fruit early, while indeterminates need to be a bigger plant, so set fruit later in the season. Determinate plants are more compact. They are varieties that reach a certain size and no bigger, such as ‘Bush Early Girl,’ ‘Better Bush,’ ‘Elfin’ and ‘Grand Cherry.’ Indeterminate plants like ‘Big Beef’ and ‘New Girl’ keep growing like a vine. If conditions aren’t right later in the season, you won’t get fruit from indeterminates.

◆ Fertilizer with too high a nitrogen content leads to lush (lots of greenery) plants but not necessarily lots of fruit. Use a more balanced fertilizer, such as one whose label reads 10-10-10.

So, why didn’t my plants set fruit this summer? My guess is that they weren’t getting enough sun and I moved them to a more sheltered area, one without a breeze or insects to release the pollen. Next growing season the plants go back to where I grew them in past years. As to why they’re setting fruit now, my best guess is that we’ve had a very mild autumn, and therefore Mother Nature has provided the right day and night temperatures for fruit to set.

A final note — if you are growing plants from seed, you need to start them six to eight weeks before you plan to put them out. Start late March or early April and in a sunny window. If the plants become very leggy, the stem can be planted deep into the soil outside as roots will develop anywhere along the stem. Putting them outside in a cold frame first helps to harden off the tender plants, but watch the weather. If a cold spell is predicted in early to mid-May, hold off bringing them outside until the weather is warmer. To maximize tomato yield, select early, midseason and late tomato plants.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions and/or comments to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 1720
Purple lunaria flowers. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

One of the reasons I really like perennial plants is because it’s the “plant once, enjoy for many years” form of gardening. Perennials, provided they are adapted to your growing conditions (hardiness zone, fertilizer, soil pH, amount of water, etc.) will return year after year.

But, there is another way of planting once and enjoying for many years — by growing plants that are known for self-seeding. They put out seeds in the late summer and fall, the seeds survive your winter conditions and germinate the next year. Some of these are biennials, which means that the individual plant will grow back a second year in addition to scattering seeds. Some are annuals, with the original plant dying and only the seeds surviving the next year.

If you do decide to plant self-seeding plants, make sure you know what the seedlings look like. While in some cases the seedling looks very much like the mature plant’s leaf, in other cases, it’s hard to tell. You don’t want to accidently pull out a desired plant thinking it’s a weed.

There’s another caution with self-seeders. Because they produce so many seeds, they can become invasive with your flower bed looking very messy. So, you need to be careful in planting them and not be hesitant to “rip out” what grows where you don’t want it.

One of the best self-seeding plants is lunaria (pennies, honesty, money plant). The name comes from Latin, meaning moon-like, which refers to the oval, silvery seedpods that are produced on the plant toward the end of the growing season. While some are annuals or perennials, most commonly found in seed catalogues are biennials.

The flowers are beautiful — white or purple — and appear in spring with seed pods the second year after sowing. They are easy to naturalize if you have a wooded or partly wooded area where the seedlings won’t be disturbed. A mass of these is stunning even from a distance away. The flowers can also be collected and dried for arrangements. Make sure you leave some flower go to seed for next year. Foxglove is another biennial that self-seeds.

Another self-seeder (which is also a perennial) is Echinacea, that is, coneflowers. These beautiful flowers attract birds, which love the seeds. Leave the seed heads on the plants in fall. What’s not eaten will fall to the ground and come spring, more plants will grow.

Other self-seeding annuals include New England asters, coreopsis, feverfew, violets, sweet peas and blue woodruff.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 22850
Weeping willow trees are beautiful, graceful deciduous trees. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Many years ago, I had two absolutely beautiful weeping willow (Salix babylonica) trees. They easily topped my two story house, and then some. I really enjoyed walking underneath the branches, looking out at the world, sort of like looking out through a light green curtain. And they provided beautiful shade.

Then, a really nasty hurricane came along. Down went the first and then the second tree. This happened when other trees — maple, oak and pine — all survived.

What happened? The answer is that weeping willow trees (natives of Asia) are very shallow rooted. When the wind really picked up, the roots couldn’t hold the trees in the wet soil, so down they went. And mine weren’t the only ones I saw down.

Does that mean that you shouldn’t plant weeping willow trees? Not necessarily. If you have an area sheltered from the wind, like a hollow, this might be the ideal location.

There’s another problem with the weeping willow tree. It craves water, so if you really want to plant this fast growing, graceful tree, make sure it’s not near a cesspool, well or in-ground swimming pool, as the roots can head in that direction, doing damage to the concrete.

The weeping willow tree grows well in U.S. Dept. of Agriculture hardiness zones 6 to 8 (Long Island is right in the middle at zone 7). It particularly likes to grow near water, but while the hardiness zones are limited, it does tolerate a wide range of soil pH levels. It’s a great shade tree quickly reaching 30 to 40 feet tall, growing as wide as is tall. Give this one plenty of room.

Another willow, pussy willow, (S. discolor) is native to North America. The deciduous shrub first produces furry catkins (or cat’s feet) in early spring. Many people like to cut branches from this stage of the plant and use them in dried arrangements or to make wreaths. If you do cut branches, do not put them in water or they will progress to the next stage, flowers.

After flowering, this easy to grow plant then produces green leaves. It is definitely grown for the early catkins. Pussy willow grows well in zones 4 through 8 or 9 (depending on variety).

Although most pussy willow plants produce gray catkins, there’s a rare variety (‘Mt. Asama’) that has a burgundy ones. A weeping pussy willow (S. caprea ‘Pendula’) can be grown as a small ornamental tree reaching 6 to 8 feet tall. As most weeping plants, the latter is really nice in winter when snow and ice covers the weeping branches.

Another popular willow that does well on Long Island is the dappled willow (S. integra). Like many other willows, the shrub is fast growing and can easily reach 15 to 20 feet tall and wide. However, if you really like this shrub, it can be pruned to keep it much smaller. In fact, it’s the new branches in spring that have mottled leaves that make it really stand out in the garden.

The dappled willow does well in hardiness zones 4 to 9. It is a native of eastern Asia, including China, Japan and Korea. Like other willows, the flowers are catkins (a cylindrical flower with no obvious petals). The cultivar ‘Hakuro Nishiki’ comes out very pale pink in spring.

Are willows deer resistant? Good question. Some sources say yes and some no, so you’ll have to see what the deer in your area like. However, rabbits do like willows, so you should take whatever precautions you normally take to keep your plants safe from them. While willows, in general, like moist soil, some varieties are somewhat drought tolerant once established. In general they like sun but tolerate light shade, and do well in a wide variety of soil conditions.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 1730
Flowering quince blooms before leaves appear. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

The gardening season is winding down. You’ve probably enjoyed your tomatoes and have started thinking about your herbs and how to preserve them for winter use (you can, of course, bring container grown herbs into the house in a sunny location).

So, it’s hard to think of spring flowers when we’re facing autumn’s mums and winter’s chill. However, it you want a gorgeous, early spring garden, there are certain things you must do now.

◆ Plant your spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.). They can actually be planted as long as the ground is not frozen.

Fothergilla is a slow grower. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Fothergilla is a slow grower. Photo by Ellen Barcel

◆ Plant your spring flowering trees. These include dogwood, magnolia, flowering cherry, flowering crab apple and redbud.

◆ Plant shrubs that bloom in early spring. If you already have some in the ground, do not, I repeat, do not, prune them in late autumn. You will be removing next spring’s flower buds. Rule of thumb, prune flowering shrubs immediately after they have bloomed so as not to interfere with their bloom cycle.

Probably the earliest shrub to bloom in spring is witch hazel, with its delicate yellow flowers. In a mild winter it may even bloom in February, but March is more likely. Since it is blooming so early, the flowers come out long before the leaves. And, yes, this is the plant from which the astringent witch hazel is made.

Forsythia also blooms before the leaves appear with a mass of yellow flowers. You can even force the flowers in late winter if you see flower buds starting to form. Cut some branches, bring them indoors and put them in a vase with room temperature water. Soon, the vase will be filled with the cheery flowers. Forsythia plants make a great, easy to grow hedge. A fast grower, they can be cut back to make them the height you want.

Witch hazel with its yellow flowers is the earliest bloomer on Long Island. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Witch hazel with its yellow flowers is the earliest bloomer on Long Island. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Flowering quince produces gorgeous red, pink or orange flowers, again, before the leaves appear. The plant can easily reach up to six feet tall, but there are shorter cultivars. A native of China, it is usually grown here for its flowers, not its fruit. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Some varieties have thorns while others are thornless. Check the tag or research the cultivar if you either want (as a barrier) or don’t want (around kids) thorns.

The P.J.M. Rhododendron blooms in early spring, usually April, ahead of most rhodies, which tend to come out in May. The pinkish-purple blossoms are born on a relatively slow growing plant that reaches three to six feet in height. An evergreen, it does well in partial shade in hardiness zones 4 to 8. A row of them makes a lovely, relatively low hedge.

Pieris (andromeda) comes out quietly in spring. Most plants available have either white or pink flowers, but ‘Valentine’ has absolutely beautiful burgundy flowers. ‘Valentine’ blooms ahead of the other varieties, frequently before I’ve tidied up the garden in spring.

Fothergilla blooms with lovely white flowers. The slow-growing, deciduous shrub blooms in April to May after the leaves appear. The plant does well in zones 5 to 8.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 1448
Ann Marie's Farmstand in Port Jefferson Station displays some of the many different varieties of squash available in the fall. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Squash, the genus Cucurbita, are grown today extensively throughout the world as a food source. They are one of the Three Sisters (corn, beans and squash), which were developed in the Americas and then taken by European explorers back home.

One of them, zucchini is so closely associated with Italian cooking that most people don’t realize that it is a native of the Americas, not Italy.

Squash are generally grouped in two categories, summer squash and winter squash. Most are vines and, although some are perennials, they are grown in temperate regions as annuals. The plants easily self-seed. I’ve even seen them growing along sidewalks from seeds that overwintered from decorative pumpkins left outside.

Incidentally, although gourds look similar to squash, they are not native to the Americas, but rather Africa.  The same is true of melons. Gourds and melons, however, are related to squash (family Cucurbitaceae, but a different genus).

Ann Marie's Farmstand in Port Jefferson Station displays some of the many different varieties of squash available in the fall. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Ann Marie’s Farmstand in Port Jefferson Station displays some of the many different varieties of squash available in the fall. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Squash, botanically are fruit, in the same way that tomatoes are. They are the ripened seed pod of the plant. Summer squash are harvested in summer, before the skin hardens. Summer squash include zucchini, yellow summer squash, scallop squash and yellow crookneck squash.

Winter squash are harvested in fall, after the skin has hardened. Therefore, these squash need to be peeled before use. Varieties of winter squash include hubbard squash, turban squash, pumpkin, butternut squash, acorn squash and spaghetti squash. We tend to think of winter squash as traditionally served at Thanksgiving (pumpkin pie and butternut squash in particular); however, spaghetti squash is available in supermarkets year round and is frequently roasted and served with tomato sauce, in place of spaghetti made from wheat to cut down on carbs.

Squash are known for their high vitamin content (particularly A) and trace minerals, making them an excellent addition to the diet.

My favorite butternut squash recipe takes butternut squash cubes cooked with sausage, thyme, salt and pepper in a skillet in chicken or beef broth with some onions until the sausage and squash are done.

Squash blossoms are edible as well. The ones generally seen in markets are zucchini blossoms. They are usually fried, but they can be baked, stuffed with cheese and spices, served with spaghetti or in soups. There are plenty of recipes online to satisfy all.

Since zucchini plants are so prolific, you’ll still get plenty of squash if you eat some of the flowers.

Squash grows in a wide variety of soil types but does need fertilizer (for example, composted manure). They produce the most fruits in sun. They grow in a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.5 (very acidic to mildly alkaline, with 7 being neutral). They can be grown in large containers, so if you have a small yard, you can put the container on a deck or patio.

According to the seed company Burpee, cucurbits don’t like to have their roots disturbed, so either plant them directly outside, start them in peat pots, which can be planted whole in the garden, or buy seedlings from a nursery, being careful not to disturb the roots. They also suggest adding fertilizer when the plants begin to blossom and set fruit since squash are heavy feeds (like tomatoes).

Like tomatoes, these are tender plants. They like warm soil (so don’t put them out too early in a cool spring) and need a steady supply of water, so be aware of weeks of little or no rain.

Winter squash can also be used as outdoor decorations in the fall. Some squash develop into really weird shapes naturally while others are accidental crosses between two varieties producing things like green pumpkins.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 6474
The parsley worm caterpillar. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

There are many gardening chores to accomplish in the fall. One that I’m currently working on is bringing in some herb plants to try and keep them growing over winter. Mainly, I want to keep some of my mints growing, but the parsley plant is lush and gorgeous, so I’m going to make a stab at keeping that growing on a bay window. When I went to take a look at the plant, I saw an absolutely beautiful caterpillar on one of the stalks. I knew it wasn’t a monarch, because they go for milkweed (several dined on my butterfly weed, Aesclepias tuberosa, a native variety of milkweed), and besides they have orange strips while my new guest was basically green and black.

Parsley worm caterpillar

A bit of research told me that it was a parsley worm caterpillar, which would eventually change into an American swallowtail butterfly, black with blue markings. How was I going to deal with this critter since I really wanted to see it turn into a butterfly, but I also wanted to bring the parsley into the house so I’d have fresh parsley all winter.

Monarch butterfly caterpillar. Stock photo
Monarch butterfly caterpillar. Stock photo

Again, research told me that they overwinter in the garden as a chrysalis (that is, a pupa) and emerge from the cocoon  in spring (April to May usually) as the beautiful butterfly. So, if you are bringing any plants into the house, check them for hitchhikers. Break off some of the parsley and set it with the caterpillar in a safe place outside to overwinter. I’ve read that it’s a nasty tasting caterpillar so birds tend to leave it alone.

Some people object to the parsley worm (which is attracted to other plants in the carrot family, such as dill, carrots and Queen Anne’s lace). They can be hand picked off the plants if you want. Personally, I don’t mind sharing a bit of my parsley with them knowing that they will turn into beautiful butterflies.

Green tomato hornworm

Another caterpillar you may find on your garden plants is the large green tomato hornworm. I remember as a kid my father finding them on some tomato plants he was growing. One was covered with white insect eggs, parasitized by braconid wasps. My father removed the caterpillar with the eggs, but I later learned that the wasps perform a valuable service to the home gardener, that of devouring other insect pests. 

Like the parsley worm caterpillar, they can be easily removed from the plant by hand picking. While the parsley worm will eventually yield a beautiful butterfly, the tomato hornworm can quickly defoliate tomato plants (and other nightshade plants like potatoes, peppers and eggplants) causing serious damage to the garden.

After going through the pupa stage, a large moth will emerge. No, I’m not willing to share my tomato plants with these critters. But, if you find one covered in white eggs, leave it alone since the wasps that will emerge from the eggs will kill the caterpillar and control other insect pests.

So, monarch butterfly caterpillars are good, parsley worm caterpillars are also very good and tomato worm caterpillars are bad, unless they’re covered in wasp eggs.

There are many other varieties of caterpillars that are sometimes beneficial and sometimes not. Remember the gypsy moth caterpillar can be very bad. (See my column of last July 16 for details on this one.)

Check out any caterpillars you find by typing the description into your computer’s search engine to find similar photos to help identify it. Only when you know what you have, should you decide what to do about the critter or critters in your garden.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

by -
0 2457
Eggplants come in many different shapes, sizes and colors. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Growing an eggplant is relatively easy on Long Island. Eggplants are in the Solanaceae (that is, nightshade) family. Cultivation of the eggplant is very similar to that of the tomato. It is a perennial in tropical regions but in our climate is grown as an annual. Like tomatoes, night temperature must be warm enough (65 degrees or more) in order for eggplant blossoms to set fruit. The plant will stop fruiting when the air temperature drops below 65.

Generally, the fruit is large and a deep purple or aubergine color. In fact, in some parts of the world, it is called aubergine, rather than eggplant. Size and color of the fruit, however, vary depending on the cultivar. Some eggplants produce a cream-colored fruit, making it really look like an egg, hence its name.

There are dozens of varieties of eggplant. ‘Jade Sweet’  is smaller in size and has a pale green-colored skin. ‘Black Stem’ eggplant is an ornamental with black stems and looks more like a tomato than an eggplant.  ‘Cookstown Orange’ also resembles a tomato. It has yellow, nonbitter flesh. ‘Casper’ is long and slim with ivory-white fruit. ‘Clara’ has a medium-sized white fruit. There are even varieties with long, slim fruits such as ‘Mackinaw’ and ‘Orient Express.’ Eggplant flowers in general are light to dark purple with yellow centers, but some cultivars have white flowers.

Eggplants grow best in a soil pH of 6.3 to 6.8, which is only mildly acidic. Test your soil first, but generally, on Long Island you will need to raise the pH by adding lime. If you grow the plant in a large container with potting soil, this will be less of a problem since most potting soil is closer to being neutral.

Eggplant grows best in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Make sure you water sufficiently, several times a week, especially when Long Island is going through its periodic droughts. Fertilize as you choose: compost, composted manure, compost tea or commercial fertilizer. Remember that you are going to be eating the fruit, so don’t put anything on the plants that is not rated for human consumption. Some chemicals tell the gardener to stop a certain number of days before harvest.

Mulch to keep the soil cool and conserve moisture. Space each plant two to three feet apart as these can be large plants. Like tomato plants, which usually need some support, large eggplants need support as well. Use stakes or a tomato cage.

If you decide to grow them from seed, it is recommended that you start the seeds indoors two months before you will move them outdoors. Harden the plants off before moving them permanently into the garden, in late May. That means start them in March. Since so many houses on Long Island do not have enough indoor light (plants get very leggy without enough sun), you might want to consider buying several plants from a nursery instead.

Because the raw fruit can be somewhat bitter, eggplant is usually cooked. Eggplant parmigiana is made basically the same way as veal parmigiana. Remove the skin first, slice, bread and fry. Serve with tomato sauce and mozzarella. A favorite recipe of mine is a turkey and eggplant casserole. Eggplant can also be grilled — season and coat with olive oil.

Other plants in the nightshade family include tomatoes and potatoes as well as bell peppers. Tobacco and petunias are also in the nightshade family. Atropia belladonna (also a nightshade) is toxic so pull it out if you see it growing wild in your garden. While tomatoes and potatoes are completely edible (unless you’re allergic to one or both), the leaves are not. Never, I repeat, never eat potato or tomato leaves.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

Prev1...8910...13Next Page 9 of 13
TBR News Media is your local news and entertainment website.
We provide you with the latest breaking news and information for your community.
Contact us: [email protected]

Most Viewed

©