Cooking Cove: Currying favor for the adventurous cook
By Barbara Beltrami
There’s nothing that curries favor more with an adventurous appetite than (you guessed it) curry. A sauce made from different spices, most commonly turmeric, ginger, coriander, cumin and pepper (curry powder is basically a combination of those spices), it is used with meat, fish, or vegetables, can be mild or spicy, but no matter what, it’s a ubiquitous and familiar comfort food all over Asia.
Like so many foods, curry has as many interpretations as the cultures to which it is indigenous and the people who cook it. During the British rule of India, it found its way into Western culture, and as the world has become more of a melting pot of immigration and resulting ethnicities, curry has become a welcome addition to our eclectic cuisine with those from India and Thailand being the most familiar (at least to me).
Here are a few of my riffs on some simple, basic recipes.
Red Curry with Tofu
YIELD: Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound firm tofu
1 tablespoon oil
1” piece ginger root, peeled and minced
1 small onion, minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 serrano peppers, seeded and thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms
Salt to taste
3 tablespoons red curry paste
8 ounces unsweetened coconut milk
2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce
Juice and zest of one lime
1 cup sugar snap peas
DIRECTIONS:
Slice tofu into one-inch slabs, place on paper towels, then top with another layer of paper towels and pat them down; let sit 20 to 30 minutes, then cut into 1” cubes. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat, then add ginger, onion, garlic, peppers and cilantro and saute, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 4 to 5 minutes.
Add mushrooms and saute until golden, about another 5 minutes, and season with salt; stir in curry paste and cook about 2 minutes, then add coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice and zest. Stir and add tofu cubes and snap peas. Simmer until sauce thickens a bit and pea pods are tender, about 8 or 9 minutes. Serve hot with brown rice.
Beef Curry
YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 pounds beef sirloin cubes, cut into 1” cubes
2 1/2 cups beef broth or stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
DIRECTIONS:
In a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven heat the butter over medium heat; add onions and garlic and, stirring, cook until onions are wilted, about one minute. Add spices and vinegar, stir a little; add beef and cover; cook for about 10 minutes, until beef starts to brown. Add broth, cover and cook over medium-low heat until beef is tender; add salt, pepper and lemon juice, stir, place in serving bowl and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve hot with rice or chick peas.
Chicken Curry
YIELD: Makes 6 servings
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
2 pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs or breasts, cut into bite-size pieces
4 garlic cloves minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh peeled ginger
1 teaspoon cayenne
2 teaspoons turmeric
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
One 14-ounce can petite diced tomatoes
1 2/3 cup chicken stock or broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
In a large pot over medium heat, warm the oil; add onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add chicken and, stirring frequently, cook until golden and no longer pink inside, about another 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, ginger, cayenne, turmeric, coriander and cumin; cook and stir just until they release their aroma, a minute or so. Next add tomatoes and broth, bring to a good simmer and stir in cream; season with salt and pepper and serve hot with naan and/or basmati rice.
