The Wine Connoisseur

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By Bob Lipinski

“One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor.” — Comedian George Carlin, 1937-2008

Bob Lipinski

Tequila is a distilled spirit produced from the juice of the blue agave, a plant native to Mexico. The agave has stiff, blue-tinted leaves and needle-like thorns, resembling cactus. Tequila is produced within the state of Jalisco, where the town of Tequila is located, as well as in the states of Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas.

In 1795, King Carlos IV of Spain granted Jose Maria Guadalupe Cuervo y Montana the first license to produce and distribute tequila in Mexico, then under Spanish rule. In 1873, Don Cenobio Sauza became the first to export tequila to the United States, crossing the border at El Paso del Norte (now Juárez) with three casks and six jugs of mezcal-tequila.

Tequila comes in two main types, based on the agave content used during fermentation: “100% Agave Tequila” and “Mixto Tequila.” Tequila labeled “100 percent Agave” or “100 percent Blue Agave” is made entirely from agave. If the label doesn’t say 100 percent agave, it isn’t. Mixto Tequila consists of at least 51 percent blue agave and other sugars. It is simply labeled “tequila” without indicating it as mixto.

Tequila must be distilled at least twice by law, though some producers opt for a third distillation. It is bottled at a minimum of 80-proof unless flavored.

Tequila can be grouped into four distinctive categories — Blanco (gold or oro, a subgroup, often referred to as mixto), Reposado, Añejo, and Extra Añejo. Cristalino Tequila (crystalline) is an unofficial category (introduced in 2008) of aged tequilas (reposado, añejo, extra-añejo) that are filtered to remove the color (from barrel aging) while retaining the taste and aroma from the barrel.

Blanco (also known as silver tequila), is unaged. It has characteristics such as black pepper, citrus, dill, earthy, green olive, lemongrass, pine, tobacco, and vegetal notes.

Gold (oro) mixto is typically unaged but often treated with caramel coloring or oak extracts to simulate wood aging.

Reposado is aged 2 months to 1 year in wood. It has notes of black pepper, caramel, cinnamon, dried grass, figs, ginger, mint, smoke, tobacco, and vegetal.

Añejo is aged 1 to 3 years in wood. It has characteristics such as baked apple, butterscotch, dark chocolate, clove, ginger, honey, oak, orange, and smoke.

Extra Añejo is aged at least 3 years in wood, comparable to brandy in quality and drinkability.

Blanco and Gold tequilas are ideal for cocktails, while other types are good for sipping, like brandy.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

Tempura. Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Tempura, a Japanese specialty, consists of pieces of seafood, vegetables, or occasionally chicken, that are lightly battered, then deep-fried to a golden color. The batter, which must be light and thin, is made of flour (traditionally wheat), eggs, and ice water.

It is believed that Portuguese Jesuits introduced this deep-frying cooking technique to the Japanese in the sixteenth century in Nagasaki. Some believe the word tempura derived from the Latin word tempora, referring to the Christian “fast days” when people couldn’t eat meat.

The deep-fried pieces of seafood or vegetables are then dipped into a sauce using a base of soy sauce with mirin (sweet rice wine) and dashi. It’s also quite common to add grated ginger or grated Japanese daikon radish into the dipping sauce. Tempura should never be greasy or heavy and is often accompanied by a dish of steamed rice, udon, or soba noodles.

Some common foods used in tempura are seafood — shrimp (tail-on), crab, scallops, and squid; and Vegetables — Bell pepper, broccoli, carrots, daikon radish, eggplant, green beans, lotus root, mushrooms, onions, pumpkin, and sweet potato.

Here are four dry white wines that will pair with a dish of hot, deep-fried tempura.

2021 Gebeshuber “Zierfandler,” Ried Modler, Gumpoldskirchen, Thermenregion, Austria. A biodynamic, single-vineyard wine. (Aged 8 months in oak barrels). Full aroma of nuts, lemon-lime, pineapple, and spices. Flavors of coconut, apple, and peach with a smoky aftertaste.

2022 Heidi Schröck & Söhne “Furmint,” Rust, Burgenland, Austria. (Aged in stainless steel and acacia barrels.) Yellow with greenish tones. Bouquet and flavor of anise, yellow apple, honeysuckle, and peach. Hints of grapefruit, chamomile, spices, and tobacco. Very dry with a citrus aftertaste.

2022 Coppo “Monteriolo” Chardonnay DOC, Piedmont, Italy. The winery has been making Chardonnay since 1984. This wine was aged for 9 months in French oak barrels. Bright straw yellow with a fresh bouquet and flavor of apple, pear, lemon, butter, and vanilla with hints of pineapple, chamomile, and toast. Very complex wine with an aftertaste of tangerine. It reminds me of a well-made premier cru Chablis.

2022 Te Mata “Chardonnay,” Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. (100% Chardonnay). Aged for a short time in oak barrels.) Bright yellow with a medium-full bouquet and flavor of peach, citrus, buttered toast, and tropical fruit. Hints of melon, macadamia nuts, and vanilla, with a touch of salinity. Smooth finish and a long aftertaste of grilled pineapple.

Other wines that pair with tempura are Albariño, Catarratto, and sparkling wines (brut), along with Junmai sake (chilled), and cold beer.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Yes, I know it’s winter, with bitter cold days and even colder nights, and some parts of the country are probably experiencing snow or ice, which makes things even colder and more miserable.

Now, do people near the equator only drink chilled white wine and those near the poles drink only room temperature red wine? Certainly not to both statements.

Yet, during cold weather, we still drink cold beer, and we serve most of our cocktails cold or very cold, especially a martini, which we drink “arctic cold.” So, what’s wrong with serving a glass of a chilled white or red wine?

Here are some chillable wines for cold weather…

2022 Brigid ‘Pinot Noir,’ Marlborough, New Zealand. (9.5% alcohol; 80 calories per serving) Has a “Nutrition Facts” chart, like on a box of cereal, displayed on the back label. Light ruby with notes of cranberry, dried flowers, citrus, and tart cherry with hints of herbs and wet earth. A flavorful, easy to drink wine. A great accompaniment to cheese fondue.

NV Riunite Lambrusco, Emilia-Romagna, Italy. A perennial favorite since the 1970s. Although I’m not a stranger to this wine, I’ve not had a bottle in many years. It’s frizzante (lightly effervescent) and semi-sweet, with a luscious aroma and flavor of raspberry, rhubarb, and plum, with a bitter almond aftertaste. Try with a dish of salami, mortadella and provolone.

2024 Georges Duboeuf ‘Beaujolais Nouveau,’ France. (Made from Gamay grapes). Bright red colored; intensely fruity with hints of cherry, cotton candy, hibiscus, and red lollipops. Aftertaste of boysenberry, red currants, and spices. Drink with a spicy pepper, grilled cheese sandwich.

2020 Domaine Sérol ‘Oudan’ Côte Roannaise, Loire Valley, France. (100% Gamay grapes.) Oudan is a plot of hillside land on granitic soil, first planted by Stéphane Sérol over 20 years ago. Cherry-colored with a fruity aroma and taste of strawberry, red apple, and herbs. Hints of black pepper, potting soil, and fennel. A Margherita pizza says it all!

2023 Quinta da Lixa, Alvarinho ‘Pouco Comum,’ Vinho Verde, DOC, Portugal. Perfumed, with notes of honeysuckle, white peach, lemon, orange, and pear. Hints of green peas and pineapple. Pairs well with fish tacos.

2023 Quinta d’Amares, ‘Loureiro’ Vinho Verde, DOC, Portugal. Light citrine color; notes of perfume, lemon, bay leaf, and apricot. Nuances of minerals, peach, and melon. A delightful wine for hot and cold weather. Serve with a hearty bowl of fish chowder.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

Cappuccino. Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Italians have been sipping little cups of strong coffee for over 400 years, but the coffee we know as espresso — a thick, dark liquid with a foamy, creamy head, or crema dates from 1903. This is when machines (perfected simultaneously in Milan and Turin, Italy) made the rapid method of extraction possible.

The word espresso comes from the Italian for “fast,” since espresso results when pressure forces hot water through coffee grounds. Coffee was first brought to Italy in 1615 by Pietro della Valle. 

In 1938, a Milanese coffee-bar owner named Achille Gaggia added a hand-operated piston pump to the elaborate steam-powered espresso machines, then in use. Gaggia’s invention increased the extraction pressure and added body and complexity to an otherwise thin brew. Later refinements replaced the piston with an electric pump.

It is interesting to note that Italy is the world capital of espresso, yet not a single coffee bean grows there. Italy imports coffee beans for roasting and blending, from Africa, Central and South America.

Espresso has an intense black color, with a concentrated, strong coffee aroma, and a thick, long-lasting crema (pale chestnut, creamy froth head, which should hold sugar on its surface for a few seconds before penetrating the coffee). It has well-balanced flavors and good body, with a thick “mouthfeel,” and a pleasing, bitter aftertaste.

Espresso. Pixabay photo

Although popular in the United States, serving a twist of lemon peel with espresso is not customary in Italy.

The most popular types of espresso or “caffè” are:

Doppio (double): Two shots of espresso served in a single cup.

Lungo (long): A weaker espresso, made by adding water.

Latte: A milky espresso typically consumed in the morning.

Macchiato: A shot of espresso spotted or marked with a scoop of foamed milk on top.

Ristretto: A thicker (restricted) more concentrated version of espresso; made by using less water.

Corretto: A ristretto espresso that is corrected (volume) by adding grappa or other types of distilled spirits, liqueurs or bitters.

Cappuccino is an espresso coffee served with a creamy head made from steamed milk and foam. Cocoa or powdered chocolate is often sprinkled on top. In Italy, cappuccino is a morning drink enjoyed before or with breakfast, and not consumed after 11 a.m.

The history of cappuccino is shrouded in legend. According to one account, the name cappuccino originated as a tribute to Father Marco d’Aviano, a seventeenth-century Capuchin monk. Monks covered their heads with the pointed brown hoods of their cloaks, known as a cappuccio in Italian, which is similar in color to coffee with milk.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

During the holiday season, I usually have a list of wines that I prefer to drink, but this year, I have discovered some new ones that I will definitely include. Sales (and consumption) of red wine (as well as champagne and fortified wines) rise during wintry weather, and I stock up for the holidays with plenty. Although I enjoy medium to full-bodied red wines, I rarely say no to a glass or bottle of a chilled red wine, served as an apéritif or to accompany a first course.

These wines are sure to enhance your holiday festivities. The first two wines, light-bodied, young, and fruity, are best enjoyed chilled, with or without food.

2022 Te Mata “Gamay Noir,” Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. (100% Gamay grapes. The winery brought the Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, the technical name of Gamay, to New Zealand in 1995.) Candy-apple red color, with an inviting, very fruity aroma and flavor of raspberry, black cherry, rhubarb, watermelon, and tart cranberry. Hints of strawberry, anise, blueberry pie, clove, and fennel. Perfect for pork satay with spicy peanut sauce.

2023 Souleil Vin de Bronté, “Le Rouge,” Languedoc, France. Blend of organically farmed Syrah and Grenache grapes. Fermented and aged in stainless steel containers. Bright cherry color with fruity flavors of raspberry, cherry, and green plums. Easy to drink with hints of wild strawberry, thyme, and leather. Serve it lightly chilled with honey-glazed ham.

2021 Château Angélus “Tempo d’Angélus,” Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France. Blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes. Light ruby color with flavors of blackberry, black plums, and tea with hints of wet cedar, black currants, and toasted hazelnuts. Light-bodied; pairs well with grilled lamb brushed with mint and olive oil.

2019 Cos d’Estournel “G d’Estournel,” Saint-Estèphe, France. Blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc grapes. Deeply colored with flavors of anise, blueberry, blackberry, and mint, with hints of thyme, rosemary, fig, black pepper, and spices. Pair it with braised short ribs and a side of roasted sweet potatoes.

2001 Gérard Bertrand “Château de l’Hospitalet” La Clape, Languedoc, France. Blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsaut, and Mourvèdre grapes. Located on the coast, Château de l’Hospitalet overlooks the Mediterranean in an area noted for its garrigue scrublands (Mediterranean vegetation with a smell of rosemary, thyme, lavender and other herbs). Intense ruby color with flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plums, and spices with hints of currants, rosemary, smoky oak, and black pepper. I enjoyed this wine with grilled hot sausage and broccoli rabe.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected]

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Anyone who enjoys cooking and creating gourmet dinners or just tinkering around the stove can transform dishes into Epicurean triumphs with wine. Chefs the world over know the value of wine and have been cooking with it daily, transforming the blandest of dishes into tasty treats. By replacing some of the liquid in the recipe with wine, you add another dimension of flavor. After all, wine is about 85 percent water, anyway.

It is not an exaggeration to say that wine will improve almost any dish; and there is nothing mysterious or complicated about using wine in cooking. Most people are reluctant to cook with wine because they don’t know which wines to use, or how to use them. Use a dry white or red wine for cooking, unless otherwise instructed by the recipe.

Cooking with wine won’t get you intoxicated (unless you’re sneaking sips from the open bottle), since heat causes the alcohol to evaporate. Alcohol vaporizes at a lower temperature than water, about 173° F.

To be certain the alcohol has evaporated, reduce the liquid to at least half. You can also pre-reduce the wine in a separate pan. Then you are not fighting time and temperature. This pre-reduced wine can be put in ice cube trays and frozen for future use.

Do not cook with wines that are spoiled. If you wouldn’t drink the wine by itself, then discard it. Using an inferior or spoiled wine risks ruining your ingredients and you make good food taste bad; the “off” flavors are transferred to the dish. Avoid using wines labeled “cooking wines,” because they are of a lower quality and usually contain added salt and potassium.

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There is no need to use an expensive wine for cooking. Inexpensive wines, including “wines in boxes” or “jug wines,” provide the same aroma and balance of flavors as do expensive wines. Wine is only one component in a dish and when it’s cooked, it marries with the other flavors in the food.

Finally, there is only one important objective to be realized, and that is to make a good dish taste even better. That’s what cooking with wine is all about. Experiment! Wine, not expensive to use, adds to your food’s taste, and makes for great table conversation.

Wine creates a relaxed and gracious atmosphere at the table and sets the scene for greater enjoyment of food, no matter how simple the menu may be. And remember to save a glass of wine for yourself to enjoy.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

METRO photo

By Bob Lipinski

The changing colors reflect the season of autumn, the activity of harvesting grapes to make wine. Large gondolas are filled to the brim as workers fastidiously cut the sugar-laden grape clusters from the vine. Then they are loaded onto trucks to the winery, which signals the beginning of making wine.

Although I’m not making wine this year, I decided to host a “Harvest Wine Dinner” with some friends. We started with appetizers and went through several courses, ending with cheese. Two food offerings were paired with each wine.

Appetizers

Bruschetta with pesto

Green olive tapenade toasts

2022 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “AVETA” Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California. Blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Musqué, Sémillon, and Muscat Canelli. (Aged 6 months in stainless steel and older French oak.) Lively fruity aroma and taste of tropical fruit, lychee, lemongrass, and orange peel. Additional flavors of Meyer lemon, green apple, and wet stone.

First Course

Penne all’arrabbiata

Wild mushroom risotto with zucchini strips

2021 Ancient Peaks Renegade “Red Blend” Paso Robles, California. Blend of Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. (Aged 20 months in French and American oak.) Bold aromas and flavors of blueberry, roasted coffee, black plum, boysenberry, and toasted oak. Hints of cedar, tobacco, and cola. Outstanding balance and aftertaste.

2019 Brassfield “Perspective” Syrah, Lake County, California. Aged 30 months in new oak. Dark colored with an intense bouquet and flavor of cassis, black coffee, figs, prunes, and mint. Cola-like with jam, black peppercorns, smoked bacon and plums. Round and warming in the mouth with hints of toffee.

Main Course

New York strip steak brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and served with grilled asparagus

Blackened filet mignon served with charred broccoli rabe

2021 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Artemis” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California. Aged 15 months in French oak. Powerful, yet gentle tasting with flavors of boysenberry, dark plum, baking spices, chocolate-cherry, and anise. The aftertaste is elegant, with hints of cocoa.

2020 Oyster Ridge “Red Blend” Paso Robles, California. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. (Aged 23 months in French oak.) Huge bouquet of dark fruit, espresso, and mint. Flavors of cassis, black olives, boysenberry, and spicy oak. Powerful aftertaste!

Cheese Course

Bra (cow’s milk cheese from Piedmont)

Aged Gorgonzola: tangy, superbly rich, pungent, salty, spicy-peppery flavor with large blue-green veins

2020 Burlotto “Verduno Pelaverga,” Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy. A bouquet and flavor of raspberry, black pepper, red currants, and spices. Quite smooth with an aftertaste of bay leaf and cherry.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

Porter Beer. Photo by Bob Lipinski

By Bob Lipinski

Guinness Stout, founded in 1759 by Arthur Guinness, ran an interesting ad campaign for Guinness in Ireland, stating that… “Over seven million Guinnesses are drunk every day.” The popular reply was… “I didn’t know it was such a large family.”

Porter and stout, dark-colored ales, mostly from the United Kingdom and Ireland, have been brewed since at least the early 1700s. In the brewing process, grain (mostly barley) is roasted at a high heat, causing a deep browning of its sugars, resulting in a chocolate brown-black color. Stout and porter are also brewed in the United States and should ideally be served at 55˚F.

Porter, the predecessor of stout, is brewed from charred malt and is usually lower in alcohol than stout. It was created in 1722 by Ralph Harwood, a London brewer, who named it after the porters who carried produce to London’s Covent Garden. Porter became a highly popular, exported style in the 1800s before declining around WWI and disappearing in the 1950s. It is made in many countries in various styles, often dependent on local trends or ingredients. During the late 1700s, porter became fashionable in the United States and two of its lovers were Presidents George Washington and John Adams. Porter is very complex, with multi-layered malt and dark fruit flavors like black currants and dried cherries, along with caramel, chocolate, toffee, roasted nuts, and licorice with a bitter taste.

Stout Beer. Photo by Bob Lipinski

Stout, mostly from Ireland, was originally known as extra stout porter, a darker and stronger version of porter, brewed around 1799 by Guinness. There are a few types of stout produced. Among them are “Dry or Irish Stout” (Guinness) and “Sweet Stout” (Mackeson). Dry stout (also called bitter stout) is thick and malty, with intense aromas and flavors of bittersweet chocolate, caramel, coffee, dark molasses, toffee, nuts, hops, and smoky (not burnt) barley. Sweet stout, dark in color, is sweeter with less hops and bitterness. Other types of stout are Foreign Extra Stout, Imperial Stout, and Oatmeal Stout. The terms “Milk” or “Cream” Stout are no longer permitted in England but are acceptable elsewhere.

Porter and stout pair well with a multitude of foods, especially apple pie, fruity desserts, pumpkin or pecan pie, and coffee-flavored cakes. Serve them with barbecued ribs, smoked salmon, or blackened shrimp. Two of my favorite foods with porter or stout are chocolate and raw oysters.

One of the best pairings is blue cheese with porter or stout. Other recommended cheeses are Brie, Dunlop, Cheshire, Caerphilly, Comté, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Cheddar.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Although on the hottest summer days you’ll probably find me drinking a cold beer, I generally enjoy a chilled glass of white wine or champagne, which pairs with a multitude of food. Cheese, along with some cut-up vegetables and your favorite dipping sauces, is always a welcomed accompaniment, along with an assortment of chips.

Some white wines I’m sipping are…

2023 Abbazia di Novacella “Grüner Veltliner,” Valle Isarco DOC, Alto Adige, Italy. (Aged in stainless-steel tanks for 6 months.) Fruity with a yellowish-green color and scents of lemon peel, green apples, and black pepper. Flavors of orchard fruits, lentils, green peas, apricot, and citrus. Well-balanced with an aftertaste of wet stone. It pairs well with yellow curry chicken in a light coconut milk sauce.

2023 Abbazia di Novacella “Sylvaner,” Valle Isarco DOC, Alto Adige, Italy. (Aged in stainless-steel tanks for 6 months.) It has a very pleasant aroma of red apples, honeydew melon, and key lime. Dry and powerful in the mouth with hints of pear, stone fruit, grapefruit, and lemongrass. It has a pleasant bitter almond aftertaste. I paired this wine with a dish of risotto and asparagus tips, sprinkled with lemon pepper.

2022 Cade “Sauvignon Blanc,” Napa Valley, California. (There are some Sémillon grapes in the blend.) Aromas of melon, dried orange peel, honeysuckle, and white flowers. Flavors of red delicious apple, citrus, pear, and mint. A complex, vibrant wine with a touch of creaminess in the aftertaste. Try it with a Dungeness Crab salad with an orange-mango dressing.

2018 Hugel Gewürztraminer, “Classic,” Alsace, France. Pale yellow color with a light intensity bouquet and taste of spices, bergamot, lychee, and peach. Light-bodied, off-dry flavor brimming with spicy fruit with hints of cinnamon. Perfect accompaniment to smoked salmon with thin slices of red onion and cream cheese.

2021 Cuvaison “Kite Tail” Chardonnay, Los Carneros, California. Aged 11 months in French oak (50 percent new) barrels. A full-bodied Chardonnay with a pronounced bouquet and taste of green apple, lemon zest, grapefruit, and toasted bread. It has hints of brown butter, peach, and minerals. Lingering aftertaste of key limes. Serve alongside the classic “chicken with 40 cloves of garlic” recipe.

2021 Laria Pinot Grigio, DOC, delle Venezie, Italy. Bright straw yellow with a fragrance of honeysuckle, kiwi, green apple, and pears. Light-bodied with hints of almonds, coriander, peanuts, and watercress. Easy to drink with a smooth finish. I enjoyed this Pinot Grigio with a pork loin cooked with sauerkraut.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected]

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Vermouth… the centuries-old, aromatized wine, mostly from Italy, has had a revival! 

The new category of Italian vermouths is “Vermouth di Torino,” from the northwest region of Piedmont. Although some of these vermouths made been for hundreds of years, in 2019, it was officially recognized as a geographical designation I.G.P. (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) that protects and guarantees its providence and quality. 

The vermouth must use only Italian grapes and be produced and bottled in Piedmont. The superiore designation requires that at least 50% of the grapes must be from Piedmont. Also, wormwood must be used besides other botanicals. Currently there are 35 producers making Vermouth di Torino.

I recently tasted several vermouths from this new category and here are my notes…

Cocchi Rosso Vermouth di Torino, from Asti, Piedmont. The brand which was created in 1891 by Giulio Cocchi is still produced according to the original recipe. It is amber colored with a perfumed bouquet reminiscent of a “spice cake.” Rich, exotic flavors of bitter orange, cocoa, clove, rosemary, and balsam, with an aftertaste of citrus and a touch of bitterness. It is excellent mixed with equal parts of Campari, a splash of sparkling mineral water, and a slice of orange.

The below two wines come in an attractive, painted bottle sporting a “T-cork” versus the typical screwcap. And both are made using 27 different botanicals and spices. The inspiration was a journey through Dante’s Divine Comedy: Represented in 9 di DANTE vermouths as herbs and spices identified with each of the famous nine circles of hell as chronicled in Dante’s poem.

9 di DANTE Purgatorio Extra Dry Vermouth di Torino “Superiore,” from Alba, Piedmont. Made from 100% Arneis grapes. The bouquet has overtones of wintergreen, clove, orange peel, and herbs. Off-dry in the mouth with rich flavors of chocolate, mint, citrus, and spicy pears with a touch of bitterness. Although you could try it in a martini, it’s great served chilled with a slice of orange or lemon; ice if you prefer.

9 di DANTE Inferno Rosso Vermouth di Torino “Superiore,” from Alba, Piedmont. Made from 50% Dolcetto and 50% Cortese grapes. Bright ruby red with a full bouquet of spicy black cherries, oranges, and wild berries. Semisweet with a syrupy flavor of cherries, herbs, citrus, and vanilla. Well balanced with a lingering aftertaste of bitter almonds. If you like a Manhattan, Rob Roy, or Negroni, look no further.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].