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The Wine Connoisseur

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Tannat (a palindrome) is a dark red grape variety with its roots originating in Madiran, a tiny village in Southwest France. Its wines are incredibly dark and fuller-bodied than Cabernet Sauvignon, making them an immediate favorite for grilled or barbecued meats.

Tannat is a thick-skinned, medium acid red grape variety, which was introduced to Uruguay in 1870 by the Basque Frenchman Pascal Harriague, an immigrant who was looking for a varietal that would thrive in Uruguay’s soil and climate. Harriague, known to the rest of the world as Tannat, has become Uruguay’s signature grape, like its South American cousin Argentina with Malbec, and Chile with Carmenère.

Wines made from Tannat grapes include red, rosé, dessert, sparkling, and even a rosé vermouth. Foods that pair with Tannat wines are typically lamb and beef, often with a chimichurri sauce. Other foods are sausages, cassoulet, duck confit, grilled eggplant or mushrooms, Cajun spices, blackened meats, and pasta carbonara.

A recent tasting of wines from Uruguay made from Tannat grapes follows.

2018 Alto de la Ballena Tannat-Viognier, “Reserva” Uruguay. (Blend of 85% Tannat and 15% Viognier grapes; wine was aged for 9 months in American and French oak barrels). Deep purple color with a fragrant bouquet and flavor of blackberries, vanilla, dried plums, and spices. Hints of baking spices, wild flowers, and tobacco.

2020 Cerro del Toro “Tannat,” Piriapolis, Uruguay. (The name means Bull Hill). This unoaked, easy-to-drink wine is deeply colored with a fruity bouquet of black fruits, licorice, and herbs. Flavors of plums, raspberries, and boysenberry abound.

2020 Pisano “PRF” Tannat, Progreso, Uruguay. (Aged 10 to 12 months in French oak barrels) Garnet-ruby color, concentrated fruit, and tannins with flavors of cranberry, plums, dark chocolate, and spicy oak. It has a smokey, well balanced finish.

2021 Bodega Garzón Tannat, “Reserva” Garzón, Uruguay. (Aged 6 to 12 months in French oak barrels). Blackberry aromas coupled with notes of jam, plums, almonds, and spices. Medium-bodied with hints of violets, green peppercorns, and coffee with a silky finish. Don’t miss it!

2020 Marichal “Tannat,” Canelones, Uruguay. This unoaked wine shows a bouquet of fresh red fruits- strawberry and raspberry, with flavors of plum, dried herbs, and bitter almonds,

2020 Giménez Méndez Alta “Reserva” Tannat, Canelones, Uruguay. Dark ruby color with a bouquet and taste of blackberries, licorice, black pepper, and black plums. Medium-bodied with considerable tannin, and an aftertaste of dark chocolate.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

At one time, Carmenère was a minor red grape variety used in the making of some red Bordeaux wines. The outbreak of phylloxera (a root-eating louse) during the 1870s devastated much of Bordeaux’s vineyards. When the vineyards were replanted, Carmenère, which was difficult to graft, was mostly replaced by disease-resistant grape varieties. 

It was during that same time Carmenère arrived in Chile, alongside other Bordeaux varieties. As of 2020, the acreage of Carmenère has dwindled to where it is virtually extinct in Bordeaux, although some is grown in Chile, Italy, California, and China.

Carmenère is a thick-skinned, medium acid red grape variety. Its name is supposedly derived from the word carmine, an obvious reference to its deep, rich color. According to DNA analysis, Carmenère is a cross between Cabernet Franc and Gros Cabernet. In Chile, it was officially categorized as Merlot until 1994, when the French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot visited Viña Carmen in Maipo Valley and correctly identified the grape as Carmenère. 

Some recently tasted Carmenère wines are:

2017 Ventisquero “Obliqua” Apalta Vineyard “Carmenère,” Colchagua Valley, Chile. Blend of 94% Carmenère, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels, followed by one year of bottle aging. The Carmenère grapes come from a small selection of low-yielding grapevines that surround a great oak tree, Nothofagus Obliqua.

Deep ruby with a complex bouquet and taste of blackberry, red currants, black figs, chocolate, and hints of white pepper. Medium-full bodied with an aftertaste of herbs and dried berries.

2019 Ventisquero “Vertice” Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile. Blend of Carmenère and Syrah. The wine is a collaboration between renowned Australian winemaker John Duval and Ventisquero’s head winemaker, Felipe Tosso. Vertice was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels, followed by 14 months of bottle aging.

Reddish-purple color with a bouquet of black fruit, especially blackberry and black raspberry. Flavors of black plums, black peppercorns, and smoky meat. Hints of herbs, damp earth, and eucalyptus with medium-high acidity.

2020 Leyda Carmenère “Reserva,” Rapel Valley, Chile. Full bouquet and flavor of spicy plums, blackberries, cherries, and black pepper. Medium-bodied with subtle hints of anise, herbs, and dark chocolate.

2021 Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre “Carmenère” Apalta Vineyard, Chile. Notes of blueberries, black cherry, green peppers, pomegranate, coffee, and vanilla. Aftertaste of plums, dill, and spices.

2020 Santa Rita 120 “Carmenère,” from Chile. Cherry-colored with flavors of blueberry, green pepper, coffee, pomegranate, and tart-berries. The aftertaste had hints of licorice and cinnamon.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected]

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

The elusive “pinnacle of perfection” in wine still exists and one can only thirst for that miracle bottle of great wine for $9.99 that is out there somewhere. But until that day comes, we can enjoy the journey and be on the lookout for wines that complement that “special dinner” or just for leisurely “quaffing” on a Saturday afternoon. To walk into a wine shop and “pluck down” $10 for a bottle of untried wine is often an effort in futility.

I’ve been busy tasting dozens of wines (and spirits for a later article) and have found 10 that are not only great values but can pair with a multitude of foods and would be a welcome ingredient in many cooking recipes. Here is my list of suggested wines for you to try.

NV Borrasca Cava “Brut” Spain. Crisp and clean aroma and flavor of green apples, pears, and citrus, with a hint of nuts and ginger.

2022 Càvit “Pinot Grigio delle Venezie,” Italy. Bouquet and flavor of green apple, stone fruit, pear, and lime. It is light-bodied with a lingering aftertaste of almonds.

2021 Lindeman’s “Chardonnay Bin 65,” Southeastern, Australia. Very easy-to-drink with notes of butter, dill, green apple, citrus, and an abundance of toasted bread.

2021 La Vieille Ferme “Rouge,” Ventoux, Rhône Valley, France. Bright ruby colored with a bouquet and taste of raspberries, spicy cherries, black tea, and herbs. Flavors of black currants, black pepper, and plums with a long aftertaste.

2021 Laria “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo,” Abruzzo, Italy. Dark almost purple color with plenty of dark fruit, blackberries, black cherries, jam, licorice, chestnuts, and a spicy warming aftertaste.

2021 Casa del Toro “Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot,” Curicó, Chile. Dark colored with a medium-full bouquet and taste of blackberries, plums, cherries, and chocolate. Easy to drink with some tannin to lose.

2021 Trapiche “Malbec,” Mendoza, Argentina. Bouquet and taste of boysenberry, cherries, cinnamon, and plums with hints of mushrooms, herbs, and vanilla.

2019 Caliterra “Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva,” Colchagua, Chile. Cherry colored with flavors of blueberry, green pepper, coffee, pomegranate, and tart-berries. The aftertaste had hints of licorice and cinnamon.

2020 Lindeman’s “Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 45,” Southeastern, Australia. Dark colored with a bouquet and taste of coffee, black currants, tea, and mushrooms. Smooth finish with hints of mint and dark plums.

NV Rivata Dry, White Vermouth, Italy. A full perfumed bouquet of spices, almonds, mint, hints of orange peel and herbs. Dry, with a lemon fresh taste.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Feta, America’s favorite Greek cheese, has been made in Greece for over 3,000 years. Although some claim the first written mention of feta appears in Homer’s Odyssey, dating to the end of the eighth century B.C.

The word feta comes from the practice of cutting the cheese into large blocks or slices (fetes) and preserving it in brine in large barrels. Before the seventeenth century, feta was just called “cheese.” The cheese’s uniqueness is attributed to the essential process of brining. Feta is known as a “pickled curd cheese” with a fresh, salty, tangy, nutty, and peppery taste due to brine soaking.

It is made with sheep’s milk, although some goat’s milk can be added. Sheep’s milk imparts a buttery richness, and goat’s milk adds acidity. The cheese has a snow white exterior and interior with small or no holes. It is brick-shaped, moist, and semisoft to firm; yet has a crumbly texture.

Feta received its PDO in 2002 and can be made in one of seven regions: specific prefectures on the mainland and on the islands of the Peloponnese, Thessalia, Epirus, Macedonia, Thrace, and Lesbos. Similar cheeses are produced in some eastern Mediterranean countries, others around the Black Sea, and the United States, with different production and aging requirements.

Interestingly, only about two percent of all feta consumed in the United States is actually made in Greece. The average Greek person consumes about 50 pounds of cheese each year, and 70 percent of the cheese eaten is feta.

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Most consumers are familiar with Feta as the dry, salty, crumbly cheese, often added to a Greek salad. The majority of this cheese is U.S. made from cow’s milk and is often dyed to create the natural white color of the sheep and goat’s milk cheese.

There are many ways to enjoy Feta cheese including with cubes of watermelon, fresh mint leaves, and a balsamic glaze; a topping on pizza, focaccia, or bruschetta; with grilled baby artichokes, tomatoes, and red and green olives; and the best way  — as a slab, marinated with extra-virgin olive oil, bits of black Greek olives, oregano, pepper, and salt served with pieces of crusty bread.

The Guinness World Record for the largest salad was a Greek salad made in 2016 in Moscow, Russia that weighed almost 45,000 pounds, which included two and a half tons of feta in addition to tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, olive oil, oregano, and salt.

Feta has similarities to other cheeses such as Beyaz Peynir (Turkey), Brînza (Romania), Cotija (Mexico), Domiati (Egypt), Rodopa (Bulgaria), Salamura (Turkey), Sirene (Bulgaria), and Telemea (Romania).

Feta pairs well with many wines, including (whites) Assyrtiko, Chablis, Moschofilero, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. (Reds) Bardolino, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Valpolicella, and Zinfandel. Other beverages are Pilsner beer, champagne and sparkling wines (dry), rosé (dry), and ouzo.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

‘Happiness is having a rare steak, a bottle of whisky, and a dog to eat the rare steak.’

— Johnny Carson, 1925-2005, Television Host and Comedian

Whiskey, a brown-colored distilled spirit, is made in over 50 countries. Whiskey, by definition, is an alcoholic distillate made from a fermented mash of various grains distilled at less than 190-proof. Whiskeys are distinguished by the grain used, the proof at which the mash is distilled, and the age. 

The major categories of whiskey produced globally are American Blended, Bourbon, Canadian, Corn, Irish, Japanese, Rye, Scotch, and Tennessee.

Enjoying whiskey with food

Whiskey mixes well with water, seltzer, cola, and ginger ale, and is a base for countless recipes and concoctions. Yet how many people enjoy whiskey with food? Basically, there is a general lack of knowing how to pair whiskey with food and which whiskies to use.

When looking for a whiskey to pair with food, there are many things to consider… different countries, grain blends, proof levels, and types of whiskey (blended, malt, straight), cask strength, single barrel, small batch, and so forth. Also, how long the whiskey was aged in wood, the type of wood used for aging, and “finishing” woods, which are popular among distillers. As much as 60 to 70 percent of the aroma and flavor of whiskey comes from the aging process in new, charred barrels (less for second-use barrels).

Look for similarities in the smell and taste of the whiskey and the food to be paired. As an example, most whiskey has an aroma and flavor of nuts (derived from barrel aging), so a dessert containing nuts (almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts, and so forth) would be a good match.

Other aroma and flavor descriptors

Whiskies that have aromas and flavors of cocoa, caramel, maple sugar, and ginger can be enjoyed with desserts and various sauces.

Whiskies that have fruit aromas and flavors like apple, dates, figs, honey, orange, and raisins can be paired with meats and poultry containing fruit glazes.

Whiskies that have aromas and flavors of spices, such as black and white pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, are great for meat with dry rubs.

Whiskies with aromas and flavors of oak, vanilla, smoke, black coffee, and toasted nuts pair with smoked, grilled, and blackened meats, pulled pork, and smoky mushrooms. Other foods to pair with smoked elements are most smoked fish, cheese, turkey, and game, and briny oysters with a smoky-briny Scotch whisky.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Many years ago, as a young journalist, I often heard that Beaujolais was intended to be drunk while still very young, and if over a year old, lost its appeal and charm and is best forgotten. Older journalists jokingly referred to Beaujolais Nouveau as ‘Old Veau’ once it surpassed a year of aging.

Having explored the Beaujolais wine region in France and sampled numerous “older” vintages, I can confirm that the earlier advice was inaccurate. Interestingly, some Beaujolais wines can still be enjoyed after ten years of aging. During a visit to Beaujolais, I had the chance to taste some truly spectacular wines that were approaching 15 years old.

Beaujolais wine is made from the Gamay grape, known for its light-bodied fruity character and flavors of berries (raspberry and strawberry), red cherries, candy-apples, watermelon, and others.

Yet, when the Gamay grape is grown in the northern topography on hillside properties, the wines become riper, fuller-bodied, and more complex. These wines are often aged in wooden barrels for several years, losing much of their grapey character.

Beaujolais wine is grouped into three levels depending on quantity, quality, and price. Beaujolais (also Beaujolais Nouveau), Beaujolais-Villages, and Beaujolais Cru. Beaujolais-Villages is sourced from 38 villages in the north, known for its superior quality and subsequent higher price. The crus of Beaujolais, originating from 10 specific northern villages, are intended for aging and are of the highest quality.

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My Beaujolais tasting notes are:

2019 Georges Duboeuf “Beaujolais Nouveau.” It lost some of its intense fruit because of age. Bright ruby color with a light and fruity aroma and flavor of red candy, raspberries, and cranberry, with a tart-berry aftertaste.

2021 Domaine Romy “Les Pierres Dorées” (Territory of Golden stones) Beaujolais. Cherry color with a fruity aroma and flavor of raspberries, spicy cherries, tart berries, and red currants. There are hints of black pepper and plums in the aftertaste.

2019 Prunelle de Navacelle “Beaujolais Lantignié” (Beaujolais-Villages). (Aged 12 months in oak). Floral bouquet and taste of spicy black fruits, herbs, jam, and mushrooms. Nice amount of acidity with hints of strawberries, earth, leather, and hibiscus.

2019 Stephane Aviron Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes” Beaujolais. Ruby-colored with an impressive bouquet and taste of black cherry, boysenberry, black currants, and bittersweet chocolate. Medium-bodied with hints of wild strawberry, spices, black pepper.

2018 Louis Latour “Beaujolais-Villages.” Medium-deep color with a fruity bouquet and taste of cranberry, raspberry, and black cherry. Additional flavors of almonds, plums, and jam are balanced by crisp acidity.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected]

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

The region of Provence sits along the Mediterranean coast at the southern end of the Rhône Valley, east of the Languedoc region. Wine has been made here for around 2,600 years, with grapevines brought by the Greeks, thus making it the oldest wine-producing region in France.

Mediterranean vegetation, described as a combination of brush, piney shrubs, spicy herbs, and fragrant plants, such as juniper, lavender, rosemary, and thyme, referred to as garrigue, grow along the limestone hills.

The refreshing rosé wines of Provence, long popular among dwellers and visitors to the French Riviera, are popular throughout the region, especially in famous gastronomic cities such as Nice and Marseilles. In 2022, over 150 million bottles were produced, accounting for almost 40 percent of France’s rosé production.

In Provence, where both red and white wines are produced, rosé makes up almost 90% of the wine and is produced in all nine appellations. While there are dozens of grapes grown in Provence, the most important white grapes are Clairette, Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne. The most important red grapes are Grenache, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and the local Tibouren.

Some wines I recently tasted are…

2021 Château Miraval “Côtes de Provence” Blanc. (Made from Rolle grapes.) Pale straw color with a bouquet and flavor of apples, pears, almonds, and citrus. Clean tasting with hints of chamomile, herbs, and minerals.

2022 Château de Berne “Inspiration,” Rosé. (Made with organic grapes.) Blend of Grenache Noir, Cinsaut, and Syrah grapes. Light pink color with a perfumed aroma of apple blossoms, lavender, and orange peel. Delightfully fruity with flavors of citrus, peach, clove, and tart berries. There is a hint of fennel in the aftertaste.

2022 Château de Berne “Romance,” Rosé. (Blend of Grenache Noir, Cinsaut, Syrah, and Merlot grapes.) Salmon-colored with a faint floral bouquet of berries, flowers, and spices. Full flavors of honeysuckle, tart orange, and citrus. Very smooth finish, with an aftertaste of honeydew melon.

2022 Château de Berne “Ultimate,” Rosé. (Blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir, Cinsaut, and Rolle grapes.) Pale coppery color with a fresh bouquet of raspberries, tangerine, and some spices. Full in the mouth with flavors of strawberry jam and citrus. There are hints of jasmine, white pepper, and geranium.

2017 Domaine de La Bégude “Bandol.” (Mostly Mourvèdre grapes.) Deeply colored with a bouquet and flavor of blackberry, cranberry, licorice, clove, and plums. It is quite tannic with a spicy oak aftertaste.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Up in the northern region of Trentino-Alto Adige lies an area known for making some of Italy’s highest quality sparkling wines. It is the only “traditional method” sparkling wine region located high in the mountains, with vineyards planted at up to 3,000 feet above sea level.

The sparkling wines from the province of Trento in Trentino-Alto Adige are known as “Trentodoc,” a trademark name created in 2007. Their sparkling wines were already being made in the early 1900s by Giulio Ferrari, a student at the Imperial Royal Agricultural School of San Michele. He first started the “traditional method” production in Trento, after many study tours to France. Trentodoc sparkling wines officially received their DOC designation in 1993.

Trentodoc wines can be white or rosé and are made from any combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes, and must be made by the classic metodo classico method.

Aging in the bottle varies from a minimum of 15 months for a nonvintage; 24 months for a millesimato (vintage); and a minimum of 36 months for a riserva (aged).

Currently, there are 67 Trentodoc sparkling wine producers. Below are some of my tasting notes.

NV Ferrari “Brut” (100% Chardonnay): Bright straw-yellow. A clean and refreshing aroma of crusty bread, white flowers, green apple, and pears. Medium-bodied and crispy with flavors of citrus, peach, and slightly honeyed. Clean finish and very long and pleasing aftertaste. Serve it with slightly melted Brie.

2016 Rotari “Brut Rosé” (75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay): Aged 24 months. Salmon-colored with tiny, pin-point bubbles. A fresh aroma of cream and raspberries, with complex flavors of spicy cherry and peach. Refreshing acidity with a lingering aftertaste. A simple dish of prosciutto and melon.

NV Cesarini Sforza “Brut” (100% Chardonnay): Subtle bouquet of yellow fruit, tarragon, and freshly made biscuits. Complex flavors of golden Delicious apples, lemon sorbet, and spices. Subtle finish with an aftertaste of nuts and ginger. Fried calamari would be perfect.

NV Monfort “Brut Rosé” (Blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir): Lovely rose colored with a fragrant aroma of strawberries and brioche. Light and delicate in the mouth with hints of red apple, citrus, herbs, and spices. Very easy to drink. Serve with a medley of sautéed wild mushrooms.

NV Moser 51,151 “Brut” (100% Chardonnay): Pale-yellow with a subtle bouquet of blueberry, cherry, and lemon tart. Medium-bodied, and dry, with hints of apples and pears. Pair with chilled smoked salmon.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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Riesling grapes. Pixabay photo

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

When asked about Riesling, the average wine drinker often says, “I don’t drink Riesling because it’s too sweet. I like dry wines.” While it’s true that some Riesling wines are sweet, many more are dry or off-dry.

The confusion lies in the smell of fruit versus that of sugar in wine. Humans cannot smell sugar but can smell the fruit from the grape. So, what is often “perceived” as sugar or “sweetness” in a glass of Riesling or other wines is exceptionally pronounced fruity or floral aromas; that of tropical fruits such as mango, papaya, and pineapple, which we would assume to be very sweet.

Unfortunately, consumers have a hard time predicting how sweet a Riesling will be just by looking at the label, unless there is some type of indication as to the sugar level on the front or rear label. Terms such as late-harvest, spätlese, auslese, beerenauslese, and eiswein indicate a semisweet to sweet wine.

In 2007, a global organization called the “International Riesling Foundation (IRF)” was founded. Its members included wineries from Australia, Austria, Canada, France, Germany, New Zealand, South Africa, and U.S.A. Its goal was to inform consumers how dry or sweet the Riesling wines were by using a sliding scale, depicted on the rear label. Unfortunately, it was not embraced by many wineries and as of this writing, it appears the organization is defunct.

Riesling is a thick-skinned, high acid white grape variety; the predominant grape in Germany. Riesling also flourishes in France (Alsace), Australia, Austria, and the United States, as well as other parts of the world. Riesling was probably derived from a wild grapevine, Vitis vinifera silvestris, in the 1400s. It first appeared in a written document dated March 13, 1435, by Count John IV of Rüsselsheim, which reported it growing near Hochheim in the Rheingau.

The countries from the highest to the lowest acreage of Riesling grapes are Germany, the United States (Washington State, New York State, California), Australia, France, and Austria.

Riesling produces dry, semidry, sweet, and even sparkling wines and has a naturally high level of acidity, which often needs some residual sugar for balance.

Some characteristic aromas and flavors of Riesling are green apple, citrus (lemon, lime, tangerine), ginger, grapefruit, honeysuckle, lychee, mango, orange, papaya, peach, pear, pineapple, and tropical fruits.

Riesling is a great accompaniment to many foods, especially spicy hot, fried, cream and butter sauces, charcuterie, smoked meats and cheeses, sweet and sour sauces, and dishes containing ginger, soy sauce, and fish sauce.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected]

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Grapevines at Pindar Vineyards in Peconic. File photo by Alex Petroski/TBR News Media

By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Long Island stretches across the land mass of the same name, located east of New York City, and separated from Connecticut by the Long Island Sound. 

The Atlantic Ocean, Long Island Sound, and the Great Peconic Bay moderate temperatures to ward off frost. It also cools the vines during the hotter summers and barricades against warm southerly currents. The climate is warmer than elsewhere in New York, allowing for the growing of many premium grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling.

Long Island has over 2,500 acres of vineyards and more than 60 wineries. Most of the vineyards are concentrated on the island’s eastern half. Long Island wine country includes the North Fork, South Fork, Nassau County, and western Suffolk County. There are three distinct American Viticultural Areas or AVAs. The larger “Long Island” AVA (established 2001) covers Nassau and Suffolk Counties, and splits into two narrow forks (north and south). Each fork has its own sub-AVA: the “North Fork of Long Island” (1986) and “The Hamptons, Long Island” (1985) in the south.

Grapes were grown on Long Island in colonial times and “Moses the Frenchman” Fournier had extensive vineyards in Eastern Long Island in the eighteenth century and it is speculated that he grew Vitis vinifera grapevines. 

In the early 1800s, William Robert Prince experimented extensively with many varieties of grapes in Flushing, Queens. Through his catalog, he even offered a Zinfandel that was known as “Black St. Peter.” Over the decades, small backyard vineyards flourished, but it wasn’t until the mid-1900s that commercial grape-growing began.

In the early 1970s, local farmer and grape-grower John Wickham, who had years earlier obtained and planted a selection of table grapes from Cornell University, met Alex and Louisa Hargrave. He is credited with introducing the Hargraves to the North Fork’s climate and soil, which was excellent for grape-growing. 

The Hargraves purchased a 66-acre potato farm near Cutchogue and in 1973, they planted 17-acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc grapevines and became Long Island’s first commercial winery. Hargrave Vineyards officially opened in 1976 for wine sales. Since then, dozens of vineyards have been planted and opened, each with a remarkable story and a multitude of wines to try.

Today, Long Island wineries offer many types of wine including red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert. Be certain to visit and try a sampling of each.

Bob Lipinski is the author of 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need To Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He consults and conducts training seminars on Wine, Spirits, and Food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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