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soup

Puree of Split Pea Soup

By Heidi Sutton

One of the fastest ways to warm up when chilly temperatures set in is by enjoying hearty, hot soups at mealtime. The following recipes for “Puree of Split Pea Soup” and “Zucchini Soup with Cheddar Rusks” from The Culinary Institute of America Book of Soups make for a warming meal.

Puree of Split Pea Soup

Puree of Split Pea Soup

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

4 strips bacon, minced

1 medium onion, diced (about 11⁄4 cups)

1 carrot, diced (about 1⁄3 cup)

1 celery stalk, diced (about 1⁄2 cup)

1 leek, white and light green part, diced (about 11⁄4 cups)

6 cups chicken broth

2 yellow or white potatoes, peeled and diced (about 2 cups)

1⁄2 pound split green or yellow peas

1 smoked ham hock

Sachet: 1 bay leaf, 1 whole clove, 1 garlic clove, and 4 to 5 peppercorns, enclosed in a large teaball or tied in a cheesecloth pouch

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 cup croutons

DIRECTIONS:

Cook the bacon in a soup pot over medium-high heat until crisp and brown. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels and set aside. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and leek; stir to evenly coat with fat. Cover the pot and cook the vegetables over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is tender and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the broth, potatoes, peas, and ham hock. Bring to a simmer and cook over medium heat, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the sachet and simmer until the split peas are soft, about 30 minutes. Skim away any scum during simmering.

Remove the sachet and discard. Remove the ham hock and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, cut the ham off the bone, dice, and set aside.

Strain the soup through a sieve, reserving the liquid. Puree the solids and return them to the pot. Add enough of the reserved liquid to achieve a thick consistency. Blend well. Stir in the ham and bacon. Season with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls, garnished with croutons.

Zucchini Soup with Cheddar Rusks

Zucchini Soup with Cheddar Rusks

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

4 bacon strips, minced

2 onions, diced (about 21⁄2 cups)

4 garlic cloves, minced (about 2 teaspoons)

4 medium zucchini, diced (7 to 8 cups)

6 cups chicken broth

4 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, (about 1 cup)

1⁄2 cup tomato puree

4 tablespoons tarragon

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

1⁄2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1⁄4 teaspoon pepper, or to taste

8 cheddar rusks (see below)

DIRECTIONS:

Cook the bacon in a soup pot over medium heat until the fat is released and the bacon bits are crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the onions and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are a light golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the zucchini, cover the pot and cook until the zucchini starts to become translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the broth, tomatoes, tomato puree, and vinegar. Bring the soup to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are very tender and the soup has developed a good flavor, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the basil to the soup, and season with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls, garnished with cheddar rusks.

Cheddar Rusks

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

8 slices French or Italian bread (1⁄2-inch thick)

1 cup grated cheddar cheese

DIRECTIONS:

Toast the bread until golden brown on both sides. Preheat the broiler. Scatter the cheese evenly over the toasted bread and broil until the cheese bubbles and begins to brown

Beet and Cabbage Borscht. METRO photo

By Barbara Beltrami

This past month or two, every time the wind has howled, every time the thermometer has registered below freezing, every time the weather forecast has announced a Nor’easter, icy roads, a power failure or what seems like another apocalyptic act of God, every time I’ve thought I’m going crazy from cabin fever, quarantining, covid statistics, news of partisan shenanigans, military troop deployments, climate change and inflation, I’ve done what any self-respecting cook would do to save her sanity. 

I’ve taken to the kitchen, pulled out my biggest pot and made soup. All kinds of soup. So many kinds that a whole shelf of my freezer is now full of containers of soup. 

It started with butternut squash soup, then lentil soup, pea soup, a minestrone, a ribollita, cabbage soup, mushroom and barley, French onion, pasta e fagioli and a chicken soup made with a rotisserie chicken I bought on impulse. No matter how tummy-warming and delicious any of them have been, they don’t seem to have made anything go away, but they sure as hell have made me feel better, at least until the next headline. Undaunted, however, here are 3 new recipes I’ve been fooling around with.

Beet and Cabbage Borscht 

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups diced onion

1 cup finely chopped celery

1 leek, washed and sliced thin cross wise

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon paprika

1 bay leaf

1 thyme sprig

6 potatoes, peeled and diced

6 red beets, peeled and diced

4 carrots, peeled and diced

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

3 cups finely chopped red cabbage

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Fresh chopped dill 

DIRECTIONS:

In a large pot heat oil over medium-high heat; add onion, celery, leek, salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until just beginning to brown, about 5 to 7 minutes; add garlic, tomato paste, paprika, bay leaf and thyme, cook and stir about one minute. Add potatoes, beets, carrots, 6 cups water and salt and pepper to taste, bring to a boil, then reduce to a good simmer and cook, partially covered, until beets and carrots are tender, about 20 minutes. Add cabbage and vinegar and cook until cabbage is tender, 20 to 30 minutes; remove and discard bay leaf and thyme sprig. Sprinkle with dill. Serve hot with sour cream or plain yogurt.

Salmon and Corn Chowder

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1/4 pound bacon, cooked until crisp

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 cups water

1 cup clam juice

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

1 celery rib, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper 

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

2 cups half and half

1 1/2 pounds salmon, cut into bite size pieces

DIRECTIONS:

Crumble bacon. Remove all but one tablespoon bacon fat. In a large pot melt butter with the one tablespoon bacon fat; add onions and cook over medium heat until they’re soft, 5 minutes. Add water, clam juice, potatoes, celery, crushed red pepper, salt and pepper. Stirring occasionally, bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and cook 20 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Add bacon, corn, and half and half, simmer for 10 minutes, then add salmon and simmer 3 more minutes. Serve hot with oyster crackers.

Chicken Soup with Escarole and Tortellini

YIELD: Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

6 cups chicken broth

1/2 pound fresh tortellini

1 small head escarole, washed and sliced cross-wise into one-inch strips

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS:

In a large pot bring the broth and two cups water to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat to medium, add tortellini and cook according to package directions, about 3 to 5 minutes. With slotted spoon remove from heat and set aside to keep warm. Add escarole to cooking liquid and simmer until soft, about 2 to 4 minutes; return tortellini to pot and simmer for half a minute or so, just enough to heat them up again. Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve hot with a crisp dry white wine.

Chicken Soup

By Barbara Beltrami

Everybody knows that chicken soup is the ultimate comfort food, the ultimate panacea for those times when the body and soul need pure nourishment. I wish I could tell you that chicken soup will  prevent you from contracting the coronavirus. It won’t. I wish I could tell you that if you do get it, it will cure you. It won’t. All I can tell you is that cooking it, storing it in the fridge or freezer to have on hand and warm up, sipping and savoring it, sending some to a sick family member, friend or neighbor will make you feel better. 

And when your soup is done and you’ve picked all the meat from the bones, even after you’ve saved big chunks of it for the soup, there are so many things you can use the remaining chicken for. My favorite is a chicken chowder, just another kind of chicken soup, really, with a creamy base. So wash your hands for 20 seconds, make a vat of chicken soup, practice social distancing and stay safe and well.

Chicken Soup

Chicken Soup

YIELD: Makes 3 quarts

INGREDIENTS: 

One 3 1/2 to 4 pound chicken

1 large onion, halved but not peeled

2 carrots, peeled  and chopped

2 to 3 celery ribs with leaves

1 sprig fresh dill

1 parsnip, peeled and coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 quarts water

6 to 8 carrots, peeled and cut into thirds

DIRECTIONS:

In a large stockpot, combine first 8 ingredients. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil, then partially cover and simmer so liquid is barely bubbling. Cook until meat falls from bone and bones separate, about two hours. With slotted spoon remove meat and bones, place in large bowl and set aside. Into another large pot or bowl strain liquid, pressing all solids to extract as much juice as possible. 

Adjust seasoning, if necessary. Transfer liquid to container(s), cover tightly and refrigerate or freeze. Pull meat away from bones; discard skin, bones and gristle. Place meat in separate container(s), cover and refrigerate or freeze; once it is chilled, skim any hardened fat from top of liquid, strain again. 

One hour before serving, reheat broth, add the fresh carrots and cook, covered, over low heat. Serve with noodles or rice and some of the chicken meat, if desired. Reserve remaining broth and meat for other use or freeze in containers. Serve with noodles or rice.

Chicken Chowder

Chicken Chowder

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 to 4 cups diced cooked chicken meat

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

2 celery ribs with leaves, finely chopped

1 large sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Coarse salt and pepper to taste

4 cups chicken stock

2 large potatoes, peeled and diced

One-10-ounce package frozen corn

2 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

1 cup half and half

DIRECTIONS:

Place a large pot over medium – high heat; add two tablespoons of the butter and the oil. When butter is melted add chicken and stir frequently until it starts to brown, about 5 minutes; remove and set aside. Lower heat to medium; add onion, celery, thyme, bay leaf and salt and pepper; stir to coat with seasoning.  Sauté, stirring once or twice, until veggies soften, about 5 minutes. Return chicken to pot; add stock, potatoes and corn, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove thyme and bay leaf and discard. 

In a small saucepan; make a roux with remaining butter and flour. With the large pot still on simmer, stirring constantly with wire whisk, add milk, half and half and roux gradually to achieve thick smooth consistency. Serve immediately with oyster crackers or saltines and a tossed green salad.