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“Barbecue is 25 percent inspiration and 75 percent perspiration.” — Bob Lipinski

By Bob Lipinski

I love to barbecue and enjoy grilling steaks, chops, ribs, vegetables, seafood and most other foods. While I’m grilling over hot coals, plenty of water or beer seems to quench my thirst, although a glass or two of a chilled white or red wine also works quite nicely, providing they’re dry with little or no oak.

I’ve put together a list of some recently tasted Italian red wines that I hope you too will enjoy with lunch or dinner.

2013 Casali Maniago “Refosco dal Peduncolo,” Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Ruby-colored with a fruity bouquet and flavor of spicy cherries, blackberries, plums and mint. Its high acidity makes it a wonderful accompaniment to steaks with a higher fat content.

2015 Torre Santa “La Rocca” Negroamaro, Apulia: Dark ruby color with a powerful bouquet and flavor of dark berries, coffee, dried plums, raisins and spices. Hints of cedar and licorice, with a bitter finish and aftertaste. Great for grilled vegetables brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and rosemary.

2015 Torre Santa “La Rocca” Primitivo, Apulia: Deeply colored with a bouquet and flavor of blackberry and blueberry, cherries, licorice and raisins. Dry with an aftertaste of figs, dried plums and nuts. Perfect with a chunk of Monterey Jack cheese served at room temperature.

2014 Fonte del Bacco “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo,” Abruzzo: Cherry-colored with a pleasing, fruity bouquet and flavor of blackberries and black cherries. Jammy flavors with plum, spice and mulberry abound. Some grilled eggplant with pesto would work well.

2012 La Fortezza “Aglianico,” Campania: Ruby-colored with a distinctive bouquet and flavor of cherries, red licorice and plums, with nuances of black pepper, tobacco and earthiness. Pair it with Asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano or provolone cheese.

2013 Bava “Libera” Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont: Garnet-colored with a deep bouquet of berries and spices. In the mouth, there are flavors of boysenberry, raspberry, black figs and licorice with hints of rosemary, nutmeg and violets. Perfect with a dish of spaghetti topped with spicy tomatoes.

2008 Bava “Barolo,” Piedmont: This 100 percent Nebbiolo wine was aged about three years in wood, followed by at least two years in the bottle prior to release. Maroon-colored with a fragrance of withered flowers, truffles, violets, dried fruit and licorice. Full-bodied and tannic in the mouth with flavors of mulberry, cherries, almonds, black pepper and dried plums. I’d serve this beauty with risotto and porcini mushrooms or grilled portobello mushrooms.

Bob Lipinski, a local author, has written 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need to Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He conducts training seminars on wine, spirit, and food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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Red Gazpacho

By Barbara Beltrami

As much as hot soup is a tummy warmer in cold weather, cold soup can be a real refresher in warm weather. Most cold soups are really just pureed veggies or fruits … gazpacho, borscht and vichyssoise, all coolers from different European cuisines, immediately come to mind. Surely the most popular is gazpacho. Think it’s just a puree of tomatoes, bread and other fresh veggies? Think again. That’s red gazpacho. But there’s also white gazpacho called “ajo bianco” made with cucumbers, almonds and green grapes. Or green gazpacho made with cucumber, tomatillo, arugula, avocado, scallions, cilantro and parsley.

Take your pick and don’t feel that you have to follow the ingredients list religiously. Throw in whatever you have as long as it doesn’t radically change the flavor or color. And adding fruits just makes it even better. Think watermelon for the red gazpacho, peeled apple or pear for the white, honeydew for the green. Just think of them as smoothies served in a bowl.

Classic Red Gazpacho

Red Gazpacho

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups fresh cored and chopped tomatoes

1½ cups peeled, chopped cucumber

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped

1 clove garlic, sliced

½ cup water

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

2 slices bread, cubed

¼ cup chopped cilantro

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1 cup or more canned tomato juice

6 scallions, sliced

DIRECTIONS: In an electric blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients except the scallions. Puree until smooth. Pour into a sieve and place over a bowl; press and stir to extract as much juice as possible; discard solids. Adjust seasonings if necessary by adding more salt and/or vinegar. If the mixture is too thick, add more tomato juice. Chill before serving; garnish with sliced scallions. Serve with taco chips, crusty bread with extra virgin olive oil, Spanish olives or manchego cheese or crudités.

White Gazpacho

White Gazpacho

YIELD: Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

1 cup seedless green grapes, washed and coarsely chopped

1 apple or ripe pear, pared and cored, cut into chunks

1 cup peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped cucumber

2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

3 cups stale bread, coarsely chopped

½ cup milk

Coarse salt to taste

1 cup lightly toasted sliced almonds

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 to 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Finely ground white pepper, to taste

More vinegar, if desired

DIRECTIONS: In a medium bowl combine grapes, apple or pear, cucumber, garlic, bread, milk, 2 cups of water, and salt. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 12 hours. Transfer to a blender or food processor, add half the almonds, half a cup of the oil, the vinegar and salt and pepper. Blend until thick; add more water, a tablespoonful at a time, if too thick. Stir and press puree through a fine sieve into a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Pour mixture into individual bowls, drizzle with remaining quarter cup of oil, a little more vinegar if desired, and sprinkle with remaining half cup almonds. Serve chilled with chips, crackers or garlic bread.

Green Gazpacho

Green Gazpacho

 

YIELD: Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

¼ cup wine vinegar (preferably white)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

One 8-ounce container plain Greek yogurt

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

2½ to 3 cups Italian or French bread, crusts removed

1 large cucumber, peeled, seed and cut into chunks

1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped

4 large tomatillos, husked and coarsely chopped

1 handful arugula leaves

1 handful cilantro leaves

1 handful parsley leaves

Flesh of one avocado

4 scallions, sliced

2 jalapenos, seeded and chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, lime juice, yogurt and half a cup of the oil. Add remaining ingredients and toss thoroughly to be sure vegetables and bread are coated with liquid mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. Puree chilled mixture, a little at a time. Combine all pureed batches and mix thoroughly; add water, a little at a time, if too thick. Ladle into 6 individual bowls and drizzle with remaining quarter cup olive oil. Serve with chips and salsa, tacos, cheese and crackers or bread dipped in olive oil.

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Cherry Clafoutis

By Barbara Beltrami

There’s a bowl of cherries sitting on my kitchen counter, and every time I walk by and pop one into my mouth I think of Irving Berlin’s song about life being just a bowl of cherries and I think, “Really?” But then I remember another line from the song that says “…so live and laugh at it all” and I think, “OK, maybe he was right.”

Before I get any more philosophical, let’s talk about those cherries. True, they are wonderful on their own, and oh so nice to look at when they’re fresh and have a nice green stem and an unblemished dark shiny skin. Like most summer fruits, they don’t last long in that condition, but when they start to go, they also make a darn good clafoutis, pie or scone.

Cherry Clafoutis

Cherry Clafoutis

This a French skillet dessert with a flan-like filling and pitted or unpitted cherries. It couldn’t be easier or quicker to make unless you insist on pitting the cherries, which I always feel I should do if it’s for company.

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter for greasing

1¼ cups milk

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cherry liqueur or brandy

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon almond extract

6 eggs

Pinch of salt or to taste

¾ cup flour

3 cups pitted or unpitted dark cherries, stems removed

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease a 9-inch cast iron skillet or baking dish with butter. In a blender or food processor, combine the milk, sugar, liqueur, extracts, eggs, salt and flour; blend until smooth. Pour into skillet, then evenly scatter cherries on top. Bake until a golden crust has formed on top and bottom (lift gently with a spatula to check) and a sharp instrument inserted in center comes out clean. When cooled to warm or room temperature, dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve with iced coffee or tea in summer and hot coffee or tea in winter or a dessert wine any time.

Cherry Pie

Cherry Pie

Forever linked in American lore with George Washington and his honesty, cherry pie is so much more than the subject of a presidential tale. In fact, it may well be the queen of American fruit pies.

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

2 crusts for a 9-inch pie

4 cups fresh cherries, pitted

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

2/3 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon almond extract

2 tablespoons butter

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. For the bottom crust, making sure it overlaps the edges, line a 9-inch pie plate with rolled-out dough. Mix cherries with tapioca, sugar and extract. Let stand for 15 minutes. Pour into pie plate. Dot with butter. Cover with a second circle of rolled-out dough (be sure to make slits so the steam can escape) or woven lattice strips cut from the dough. Bake 10 minutes at 450 F, then lower heat to 350 F and bake another 35 to 40 minutes, until crust is golden and cherry mixture is bubbly and thickened. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Cherry Scones

Cherry Scones

Serve these cherry scones warm from the oven and your guests are sure to enjoy them. Scones are traditionally served with jam and clotted cream, a British cross between butter and whipped cream; but it’s hard to find, bothersome to make and not for the uninitiated palate anyway. Really good Irish creamery butter is better, I think.

YIELD: Makes about 12 scones

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups flour plus 2 tablespoons

1 scant teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons baking powder

2 tablespoons sugar

5 tablespoons cold butter

3 eggs

¾ cup cream

½ cup pitted chopped fresh cherries

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. In a food processor, combine the two cups flour, salt, baking powder and sugar. Using pulse button, add the butter, one tablespoon at a time until it is completely blended. Beat two of the eggs with the cream and pulse once or twice only to blend with ingredients in processor. Stir in the cherries (do not pulse). Scrape the dough onto a board dusted with the remaining two tablespoons flour. Knead 10 or 12 times, then press into a one-inch thick rectangle. Using a biscuit cutter or glass, cut dough into 2-inch rounds and place on an ungreased baking sheet. Being careful not to overwork it, press the remaining dough into a new rectangle and repeat procedure. Mix third egg with one tablespoon water and brush tops of scones with it. Bake until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Serve with butter and cherry jam, coffee or tea.

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Pan Bagnat

By Barbara Beltrami

Some of you may remember Starkist’s Charlie the Tuna, the suicidal fish who boasted about the superiority of his peers who made it to the cannery. I don’t even know if he’s still around, but I do know that good tuna is a real treat whether it’s white albacore whipped into a salad with mayonnaise and celery and maybe a little onion or belly tuna packed in olive oil and served as part of an antipasto or just a fresh tuna steak, seasoned, then seared on the outside and rare or raw on the inside.

Beyond these basic and familiar tuna preparations are myriad dishes that seem to emanate particularly from the Mediterranean countries and are real palate pleasers. An unusual summer sandwich is something called pan bagnat, French for “wet bread,” composed of tuna, olive oil, vinegar, tomatoes and anchovies plus variable other ingredients on crusty French bread. Now think about a fresh grilled tuna burger with wasabi mayonnaise or tonnato sauce, a creamy tuna emulsion that is as good as a dip as it is as a sauce.

Pan Bagnat

Pan Bagnat

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

One crisp-crusted baguette about 18 inches long

4 to 6 flat anchovies

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon coarse sea salt or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Two 6-ounce cans oil-packed tuna with their oil

One medium red onion, peeled and cut into thin rings

Two hard-boiled eggs, sliced thin

½ cup chopped Kalamata olives

One large firm ripe tomato, thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS: Slice the baguette in half along its length. Scoop out enough of the soft part of the bread inside to make a well in each half. With a fork, evenly distribute the anchovies along the length of the bottom half of the bread. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper and oil from tuna until it forms a creamy emulsion. Place the tuna, onion, eggs, olives and tomato in order given on top of anchovies. Drizzle oil mixture evenly over layered ingredients and immediately cover with top half of baguette. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, set on a flat surface at room temperature and weight down with a heavy skillet in which have been placed a couple of heavy cans or objects. Let sit at least two hours; then slice into four sandwiches. Serve with potato salad or chips, fruit and cheese and a light red wine or ice cold beer.

Tuna Burger with Wasabi Mayonnaise

Tuna Burger with Wasabi Mayonnaise

 

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

1 pound ahi or sushi-grade tuna, finely chopped

One egg, beaten ¼ cup minced onion

½ cup bread crumbs

Coarse sea salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon wasabi powder

1/4 cup mayonnaise

4 hamburger rolls

1 cup lettuce leaves, washed and dried

4 slices tomato

DIRECTIONS: In a medium bowl whisk together the sesame oil, soy sauce and pepper flakes. Add tuna, egg, onion, bread crumbs and salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and form into four patties, cover and refrigerate half an hour. Meanwhile, preheat grill on high and mix wasabi powder with two teaspoons warm water; add resulting paste to mayonnaise and mix thoroughly. Grill tuna patties one and a half minutes on each side for rare, longer for medium and well done. Place on bottom halves of rolls, top with lettuce and tomato and spread top halves with wasabi mayonnaise. Serve immediately with potato chips or french fries and cole slaw.

Tonnato (Tuna) Sauce or Dip

Tonnato Dip

YIELD: Makes 1½ cups

INGREDIENTS:

One 4-ounce jar Italian oil-packed tuna with oil

3 anchovy filets, chopped

1½ tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/3 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: Puree all ingredients in electric food processor until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Serve with crostini, potato chips, crackers, crudités or over simply seasoned pork, fish, chicken, veal or pasta.

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By Barbara Beltrami

As June winds down, parties rev up to celebrate graduations, weddings, showers, reunions and everything in between. While hors d’oeuvres from supermarket and warehouse freezers are wonderful and handy, on a hot day nobody really wants to be stuck sliding trays in and out of an oven while everybody else is playing Marco Polo in the pool. Chips with salsa or guacamole may be the default munchies, but, because they are just that, they’re not fare for special occasions. Here are two recipes for hors d’oeuvres that are special but easy to put together and sure to please your guests. Each has at least one popular ingredient and makes a festive presentation as well as a delicious nibble. Picture bruschette with fresh tomatoes and arugula, ham rolls with melon and radishes and endive leaves stuffed with herbed goat cheese.

Bruschette with Fresh Tomatoes and Arugula

Bruschette with Fresh Tomatoes and Arugula

This is the go-to hors d’oeuvre with or without the arugula in many parts of Italy. It is pronounced “broo-skeh-tay.”

YIELD: Makes 12 bruschette

INGREDIENTS:

2 medium ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped

12 basil leaves, chopped

Coarse salt and black pepper, to taste

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

12 fresh arugula leaves

12 slices crusty Italian bread

3 garlic cloves, peeled

DIRECTIONS: In a medium bowl combine tomatoes, basil, salt and pepper. Place mixture in a strainer or colander and let stand at room temperature at least one hour to drain remaining juices. Place back in bowl, add olive oil and mix thoroughly. Preheat broiler, grill or oven. Toast bread until lightly browned and crisp on both sides, 5 to 10 minutes depending on heat temperature. Remove from heat and immediately rub each slice with garlic clove. Heap tomato mixture onto bread and place an arugula leaf on top. Serve warm or at room temperature with a chilled light and dry white wine, prosecco, iced tea, lemonade, beer, cocktails or sparkling water with lemon or lime.

Ham Rolls with Melon and Radishes

This is a takeoff on the ever popular melon and prosciutto. The saltiness of the ham, the sweetness of the melon and the crispness and heat of the radishes complement each other.

YIELD: Makes 18 rolls

INGREDIENTS:

18 very thin slices Virginia or Black Forest ham or prosciutto

18 half-inch-thick sticks cantaloupe or honeydew melon

2/3 cup shredded or finely chopped radishes

½ cup chopped basil

DIRECTIONS: On a tray, platter or board, lay out the ham slices, a few at a time. Place a melon stick at one edge of each slice, sprinkle with radishes and basil and roll tightly, starting at filled edge. If necessary insert one or two toothpicks to hold each roll together. Stack on plate or platter. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve with beer, cocktails, rose or Beaujolais wine, sangria, iced tea, lemonade or flavored sparkling water.

Endive Leaves Stuffed with Goat Cheese and Herbs

Endive Leaves Stuffed with Goat Cheese and Herbs

This hors d’oeuvre is good in all seasons but especially in the summer when herbs are freshly picked and have intense flavors.

YIELD: Makes 18 to 24 pieces

INGREDIENTS:

Two endives

One 3- or 4-ounce log plain goat cheese, softened

3 to 4 ounces whipped cream cheese, softened

2 tablespoons cream or milk

¼ cup chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

¼ cup chopped Italian flat leaf parsley

Salt and black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: Tear or cut the endive leaves from the head; wash and dry. Arrange on platter. In a medium bowl, beat together the goat cheese, cream cheese, cream, herbs and salt and pepper. Spread mixture evenly among leaves. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve with chilled dry white wine, cocktails, iced tea, lemonade, white sangria or chilled sparkling water with lemon or lime.

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Strawberry Layer Cake

By Barbara Beltrami

Here it is the middle of June and finally the weather has caught up with the calendar. Despite all the rain and unseasonably cold weather that descended upon us at the beginning of the month, local strawberries, undaunted, have made their timely appearance, thank goodness.

Like most other fruits and vegetables, our local strawberries are so much more flavorful than the imported ones we get throughout the year. More sweet and juicy, they easily lend themselves to being eaten without any adornment. But if you insist, a little sugar and some heavy cream poured over them suffices. And if you want to make them the focus of a fancier dish, there are always plenty to choose from.

Although there are many who swear that strawberries are good in savory dishes such as strawberry risotto, strawberry-tomato soup, and strawberry-jalapeno-avocado salsa, give me a strawberry layer cake or a strawberry cheese tart with chocolate crumb.

Strawberry Layer Cake

Strawberry Layer Cake

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

5 to 6 egg whites (depending on size of eggs)

1/8 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

½ cup sifted cake flour

¾ cup sugar, sifted

1 quart strawberries, washed and dried

3 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup orange juice

1 pint heavy cream

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 pint strawberry ice cream, slightly softened

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease a 10- by 5- by 3-inch loaf pan. Beat egg whites until frothy and just stiff enough to form peaks, but not dry; sprinkle salt and cream of tartar over top. Gradually and gently sift in ¾ cup of sugar with flour. Gradually add mixture into egg whites, folding it in as you do so. Turn into ungreased loaf pan and bake for 25 minutes or until done. Invert pan onto rack and let stand for one hour or until cool.

Meanwhile hull and slice half the strawberries (leave the remaining half whole but cut off stems); mash the sliced ones with 3 tablespoons sugar and orange juice. Using an electric mixer or egg beater, whip the cream with ¼ cup sugar and vanilla extract. Slice the cake into three layers; spread the mashed strawberries over one layer, then place second layer over them; spread the strawberry ice cream over that layer and top with the third layer. With a spatula spread the whipped cream over top and sides of cake and place whole strawberries, pointed end up, on top. Serve immediately with hot coffee or tea or ice cold milk.

Strawberry Cheesecake with Chocolate Crumb Crust

Strawberry Cheesecake with Chocolate Crumb Crust

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

Nonstick cooking spray

¾ stick unsalted butter, melted

1 ounce semisweet baking chocolate

One 9-ounce package chocolate wafers, finely crumbled

One 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened

One 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 quart fresh strawberries, washed, dried and hulled

1/3 cup melted red currant jelly

DIRECTIONS: Spray a 9-inch pie plate with nonstick cooking spray. In double boiler, melt butter and chocolate. In medium bowl, combine mixture with cookie crumbs. Press into pie plate. Refrigerate for one hour. In another medium bowl, gradually whisk together the cream cheese and milk; add lemon juice and vanilla and stir thoroughly. Pour into chilled pie crust; top with whole strawberries, pointed end up. Brush with jelly. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving with coffee, tea or milk.

Strawberry Margaritas

Strawberry Margaritas

 

YIELD: Makes 4 margaritas

INGREDIENTS:

1 quart fresh strawberries, washed, dried and sliced

2½ cups crushed ice

½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice

¼ cup sugar

5 lime wedges

¼ cup orange liqueur

¼ cup coarsely ground sea salt

4 sprigs of mint

DIRECTIONS: In a blender, combine strawberries, ice, lime juice, sugar and orange liqueur. Pulse until smooth. Rub rim of each glass with a lime wedge, then turn glass upside down and dip in salt to coat. Pour into four cocktail glasses and garnish each glass with a lime wedge and sprig of mint. Serve with pesto crostini, salsa and tortilla chips, a wedge of manchego cheese, tacos, burritos or empanadas.

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From left, Kerry Maher-Weisse, Leg. Kennedy, Rich Weisse, Sal Riccibono, Laurel Crotty, Clara Spadafina-Giunta, Kenneth Maher, Councilwoman Nowick, Councilman McCarthy, Pastor Neil Mittelstaedt, Conrad Chase and Leg. Trotta. Photo from Leg. Kennedy’s office

Legislator Leslie Kennedy (R-Nesconset), Legislator Rob Trotta (R-Fort Salonga), Councilwoman Lynn Nowick (R) and Councilman Tom McCarthy (R) joined members of the St. James community on June 3 at the St. James Lutheran Church to welcome the opening of the St. James Farmers Market with a ribbon cutting ceremony in front of the church.

Open through summer and autumn, the St. James Farmers Market allows locals to browse and purchase locally grown produce from the people personally invested in growing them at an affordable cost. Opening day featured more than simply market stalls — attendees listened to music provided by local musicians, poetry readings by local authors and craft making, among others. “With all the conveniences supermarkets give us today, it is too easy for us to forget that much of the produce we eat can and is grown right here on Long Island,” said Kennedy. “Farmers markets like these help remind us that the food we eat and the people who grow them are right next door.”

The St. James Farmers Market will be open every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the St. James Lutheran Church on 230 2nd Avenue, and will be open through Oct. 28. EBT, SNAP, FMNP and WIC are accepted. If you are interested in being a vendor, an application can be found at ligreenmarket.org/stjames.

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Rhubarb Pie

By Barbara Beltrami

Rhubarb. You either like it or you don’t. Or you never liked it when you were a kid, but now you do. Or maybe you’ve never even had it. But here it is growing and appearing in gardens or produce departments as another harbinger of spring into summer. It can be eaten raw or cooked, in a dessert, sauce, salsa or chutney; but it does require sugar as on its own it is very sour. And just remember: It’s the stalks you eat, not the leaves. They’re poisonous.

Most people think of rhubarb as strawberry’s other half. That’s probably because strawberries and rhubarb ripen pretty much simultaneously and do complement each other. There are lots of strawberry festivals going on and next week I will write about them. But for now, let’s just talk about rhubarb, for which there are no festivals that I know of. What a shame.

Rhubarb Pie

Rhubarb Pie

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

Two 9-inch or larger pie crusts, preferably homemade

5 cups washed, trimmed and sliced rhubarb

1¼ cups sugar

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Dash of nutmeg

Dash of cinnamon

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. Roll out one pie crust to a few inches larger than the bottom of the pie plate and drape the excess over the rim. In a large bowl, make the filling by mixing the rhubarb, sugar, flour, nutmeg, cinnamon and salt. Spread filling evenly over crust, dot with butter. Roll out the top crust the same way and place evenly over filling. Wet your fingers with ice water, then fold and press edges together on top of rim, and with a small pointed knife, make a few slits in the crust. Bake 15 minutes at 450 F, then another 20 to 25 minutes at 350 F. Pie is ready when crust is golden and some juice bubbles through slits. Serve with vanilla ice cream, sweetened whipped cream or crème fraiche.

Rhubarb Crumble

Rhubarb Crumble

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

For the topping:

1 cup flour

1/3 cup oats (not quick cooking)

¾ cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

2/3 stick of unsalted butter, melted

1/2 cup chopped almonds

For the rhubarb mixture:

Butter for greasing baking dish

2½–3 pounds rhubarb, washed, trimmed and cut into one-inch pieces (you should end up with about 2 pounds or 8 cups)

1/3 cup sugar

¼ cup flour

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375 F. Generously grease an 8-inch by 8-inch ceramic or glass baking dish. For the topping, in a medium bowl combine the flour, oats, sugar, salt, melted butter and almonds. Refrigerate one hour or until ready to use. For the rhubarb mixture, in a large bowl thoroughly combine the rhubarb, sugar, flour, vanilla extract, and salt. Pour into baking dish. Sprinkle topping evenly over mixture and bake about 45 minutes or until top is golden and slightly crispy and filling is bubbly. Serve warm with vanilla or strawberry ice cream or whipped cream.

Rhubarb Sauce

Rhubarb Sauce

YIELD: Makes 2 to 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

1 pound rhubarb, washed, trimmed and cut into one-inch pieces

1/3–1/2 cup sugar or to taste

DIRECTIONS: In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, cook rhubarb and sugar together, stirring occasionally, until they reach a mushy but thick consistency, about 20 to 30 minutes. (Rhubarb will release a lot of water, but you can add about ¼ cup of water to start, if you wish.) That’s it! Serve on vanilla ice cream.

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By Bob Lipinski

Bob Lipinski

Countless articles and books include information, charts, diagrams and so forth on how we are supposed to pair cheese with wine and which combinations are made in heaven. (I’ve had a few that were probably made in hell!) Some of the more enlightened folk even recommend and discuss pairing cheese with beer, especially with the tremendous growth of craft beers and brewpubs.

But what about pairing cheese with spirits — you know … whiskey, vodka, brandy, rum, liqueurs and even grappa? It’s really not difficult once you understand the basics of spirits and how their flavors can interact with many cheeses that same way wine does.

As with cheese and wine, your cheese and spirits should complement each other. The secret is to avoid having either overpowered by the other, and spirits with an alcoholic beverage hovering around 40 percent the task becomes greater.

Be certain to slightly chill the spirits to around 65 to 68 degrees. Higher temperatures will certainly bring the alcohol to the forefront of your nose and mouth. Choose your favorite glass, and, if you like drinking your spirits over ice, refrigerate them instead.

The spirits and cheese recommendations below are from a recent tasting I conducted:

Moletto Gin, Veneto, Italy (86 proof) Perhaps the most incredible gin I’ve ever encountered! Yes, the familiar juniper berry notes along with rosemary, mint, basil and hint of citrus are there, but the kicker is an initial burst of fresh tomatoes! This gin was macerated for 45 days with San Marzano tomatoes from Italy. Recommended cheeses: Bel Paese, Boulette d’Avesnes, Leyden or mozzarella.

Moletto Grappa di Arneis, Italy (80 proof) Bouquet and flavor of spicy cherries, dried flowers, herbs, spices and dried fruits. Subtle hints of black pepper, raisins and apricot are present in the aftertaste. Recommended cheeses: Creamy Gorgonzola, herbed cheese, Gouda or Montasio.

Le Reviseur “V.S.” Single Estate, Cognac France (80 proof) A full, warming bouquet and flavor of dried fruits (raisins, dates, cherries), along with spices and dark berries. Hints of chocolate and plums are present in an ultra-smooth taste. Recommended cheeses: brie, Camembert, Livarot or Roquefort.

Laird’s “Straight Apple Brandy” New Jersey (100 proof) A brandy made from about 20 pounds of apples and aged around three years in charred oak barrels. An intense aroma of cider, baked apples, cloves and vanilla. Warming in the mouth with hints of honey, caramel and spices and a smooth finish. The aftertaste remains for some time. Recommended cheeses: Bondon, cheddar, Petit-Suisse or Pont l’Évêque.

Charles Goodnight “Bourbon,” 6 years old, Kentucky (100 proof) A heady bouquet of oak, caramel, smoky tobacco and vanilla. Warming flavors of spices, coconut and toasted almonds. Surprisingly smooth with an aftertaste of honey. Recommended cheeses: Asiago, Kefalotyri, Monterey Jack or Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Bob Lipinski, a local author, has written 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need to Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He conducts training seminars on wine, spirits and food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com or [email protected].

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Quiche Lorraine

By Barbara Beltrami

Of all my memories from my travels, one of the clearest and most poignant is a picnic lunch on a riverbank in the Dordogne area of France. After a long walk through meadows and the cobblestoned streets of tiny villages, across bridges and down rutted roads, what our guide had told us would be a modest lunch prepared by his fiancée turned out to be an incredibly sumptuous feast of everything one fantasizes about in such a setting.

I still remember the platters of freshly cut melon with delicate slices of ham, local farm fresh cheeses and butter, pates with cornichons, thick slices of juicy homegrown tomatoes and fresh picked delicate greens with just a touch of vinaigrette, long crusty baguettes still warm from the oven, ruby red cherries and the piece de resistance — not one but three different quiches made, of course, with vegetables from their garden, eggs from their chickens and cream from their cow.

I’ve made many a fancy lunch and many a quiche in my day, but none will ever come close to those. I have neither the quality of ingredients nor that setting with its perfect ambiance. But I have often tried to imitate if not duplicate those quiches. The recipes that follow for Quiche Lorraine, Zucchini Quiche and Spinach and Mushroom Quiche are the closest I’ve gotten. Bon appétit!

Quiche Lorraine

Quiche Lorraine

 

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

Pastry for one 9-inch pie

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

4 strips crispy cooked bacon, lightly crumbled

1 cup shredded Gruyere or Emmenthaler (Swiss) cheese

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

4 eggs, lightly beaten

2 cups half-and-half

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. Line bottom and sides of a 9-inch quiche pan or pie plate with pastry and bake 5 minutes. In a small skillet, sauté onion in butter until softened and opaque. Sprinkle bacon, onion and cheeses over bottom of baked pastry. With a wire whisk thoroughly combine eggs, half-and-half, nutmeg and salt and pepper. Pour mixture onto pie crust. Bake the quiche 15 minutes at 450 F, then reduce oven temperature to 350 F and bake until a knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 10 to 15 minutes longer. Serve hot or warm with onion soup, arugula salad and a French baguette.

Zucchini Quiche

Zucchini Quiche

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

One 9-inch pie crust

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

2/3–¾ lb zucchini, washed, halved lengthwise then very thinly sliced crosswise

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1½ cups half-and-half

3 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 ounces Emmenthaler (Swiss), Jarlsberg or Gruyere cheese, shredded

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. Line bottom and sides of 9-inch quiche pan or pie dish with pie crust and bake 5 minutes. In large skillet melt butter; add oil. Add zucchini and onion and sauté until tender and just starting to turn golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. In medium bowl, vigorously whisk together the half-and-half, eggs and salt and pepper. Sprinkle cheese, zucchini and onions evenly over bottom of crust. Pour in egg mixture. Bake at 450 F for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 F and bake another 10 to 15 minutes until knife inserted in center comes out clean. Serve with garlic bread and sliced tomatoes with olive oil, basil and vinegar.

Spinach and Mushroom Quiche

Spinach and Mushroom Quiche

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

One 9-inch pie crust

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup cleaned fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 cup cooked, drained and chopped fresh or frozen spinach

2/3 cup grated Emmenthaler (Swiss) cheese

1/3 cup crumbled blue or Roquefort cheese

1 3/4 cups half-and-half

3 eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. Line bottom and sides of a 9-inch quiche pan or pie plate with crust and bake 5 minutes. In small skillet, melt butter, add mushrooms and sauté 5 minutes over medium heat. Remove from heat; add prepared spinach and toss with mushrooms and remaining melted butter to coat. Sprinkle evenly in pie dish, then sprinkle the two cheeses on top. In medium bowl, whisk together the half-and-half, eggs and salt and pepper. Pour into pie plate. Bake at 450 F for 10 minutes, then lower heat to 350 F and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until knife inserted in center comes out clean. Serve with a salad of fennel, endive, radicchio, fresh or dried fruits, chopped walnuts and a French baguette.

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