By Barbara Beltrami

Hello, all you cooks and bakers! I’m back after a 25-year vacation and will once again be bringing you my favorite recipes; usually easy, original, healthful, calling for quality ingredients and sometimes modified from other recipes and tested.

For a good beginning to this column and to any company or holiday meal, what else but hors d’oeuvres? In the tradition of the season, what else but cookies? While the kids are wolfing down sugar cookies and gingerbread people (we must be politically correct and not call them gingerbread men anymore) from Grandmas’s treasured recipes, the grown-ups will be sitting around calmly sipping their cocktails and wine and nibbling (or binging) on these savory cookies.

Think thin biscotti with black olives, sun-dried tomatoes and walnuts. Imagine Parmesan wafers with pungent rosemary, or olive oil-black pepper cookies. So pour yourself a drink, preheat that oven and start baking!

Parmesan-Rosemary Wafers

YIELD: 2 1/2 dozen wafers

INGREDIENTS:

1 ½ cups freshly and coarsely grated Parmesan cheese (not the kind in the package!)

1 tablespoon flour

1 ½ tablespoons minced fresh rosemary or 1 ½ teaspoons dried

½ teaspoon coarse or sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Using a measuring teaspoon, not a regular teaspoon, and mixing well before each spoonful (the flour tends to drop to the bottom), drop mixture into little mounds onto prepared baking sheet. Bake midoven until golden, about 9 minutes. Cool on baking sheet about 5 minutes; with spatula gently remove and place on wire rack to cool.

Best if served immediately; otherwise reheat to crisp.

Biscotti with Black Olives, Sun-dried Tomatoes and Walnuts

YIELD: 3 1/2 dozen biscotti

INGREDIENTS:

1 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

4 ounces freshly and coarsely grated Parmesan cheese (don’t use the packaged kind)

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

one stick of unsalted butter, sliced into ½-inch pieces

¼ cup Italian or Greek black olives, pitted and chopped

½ cup oil-packed and drained sun-dried tomatoes, chopped

½ cup chopped walnuts

2 ½ tablespoons milk

one large egg

DIRECTIONS: In a bowl, combine flour, cheese, salt and pepper. With a pastry blender or fork, cut in butter until mixture looks like coarse crumbs. Stir in olives, tomatoes and walnuts. In a small bowl, beat together the milk and egg; combine egg mixture with dry ingredients and stir just until blended. Shape dough into a ball. Divide dough in half; pat and roll each piece into a 6- to 8-inch log and place each on a sheet of plastic wrap. Wrap tightly and refrigerate till firm, preferably overnight, but at least 6 hours.

Preheat oven to 400 F. Butter two large baking sheets. Diagonally cut the logs into ¼-inch slices and place one inch apart on the baking sheets. Bake until the biscotti are just brown around the edges (10 to 12 minutes). With a spatula, transfer to wire racks to cool.

Best if served immediately; otherwise reheat to crisp.

Olive Oil Cookies with Black Pepper

YIELD: 4 to 5 dozen cookies

INGREDIENTS:

Nonstick cooking spray

2 ½ cups flour

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon sea or coarse salt

1/2 cup sugar

2 eggs

½ cup extra virgin olive oil (yes, it does make a difference!)

¾ cup dry red wine

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375 F. Lightly spray 2-3 baking sheets with nonstick cooking spray. Combine dry ingredients. Beat together the eggs, oil and wine. Add liquid ingredients to dry mixture, stirring with a wooden spoon until a smooth dough forms. Drop by rounded measuring teaspoonsful onto baking sheets. Bake until browned around the edges, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove with spatula and cool on wire racks.