Cooking Cove: End of summer goodies from Mother Earth

Cooking Cove: End of summer goodies from Mother Earth

Apple Nut Loaf

By Barbara Beltrami

Veggies and fruits and flowers piled in pyramids and spilling out of bushel baskets, their perfumes rewarding summer’s work and heralding its end, holding on to summer and portending autumn turn me into a kid in a candy shop.

I know that when I talk about farm stands I tend to wax rhapsodic. I can’t help it. When I am anywhere that I can pick up the scent of ripe tomatoes ready for slicing or saucing; anywhere that I can indulge myself in bright bouquets of zinnias, asters, mums, Montauk daisies, statice and sunflowers; anywhere I can grab bunches of beets, kohlrabi, broccoli, eggplants, beans, squash, cucumbers, corn and peppers for pickling; anywhere I can get pears, peaches,plums, apples and quinces for pies and preserves, I get out of control.

I bring them home, arrange them in bowls and baskets because I love to look at them and also because refrigeration steals much of their flavor and texture. So I use them up quickly while they’re at their peak. Some I just wash and eat raw; others get sauteed, steamed, grilled or baked; and still others become soups, stews, sauces and relishes, chutneys, cakes and compotes to freeze or preserve and savor while Mother Earth sleeps and we dream our winter dreams.

Eggplant Caviar

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings


2 pounds eggplant

1 garlic clove

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves

Coarse salt and black pepper to taste

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

10 fresh plum tomatoes; peeled, seeded and juiced


Preheat oven to 400 F. Cut eggplants in half lengthwise; score their cut surfaces with a sharp knife; place on cookie sheet, cut side up, 25 minutes or until pulp is very soft; set aside to cool. With a spoon scoop out pulp and drain in a mesh drainer 15 minutes. Reserve half of eggplant skin, then cut into large pieces; puree with garlic and basil in food processor; add drained eggplant pulp, salt and pepper and half the oil; pulse a few times to combine and form a coarse puree; transfer to serving bowl and chill well. Puree tomato pulp and juice with remaining one-quarter cup oil and salt and pepper to taste; place in small bowl as accompaniment to eggplant. Serve the same day with toasted Italian bread and extra virgin olive oil.

Apple Nut Loaf

Apple Nut Loaf


YIELD: Makes one loaf.


2 cups peeled, cored chopped apples

2 tablespoons boiling water

1 teaspoon plus one small pinch of salt

2 cups flour

¾ cup sugar

3 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ cup chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon sugar


Preheat oven to 350 F. Place apple slices in a small heavy saucepan with the water and pinch of salt; simmer until apples are tender but not mushy; puree and set aside to cool. In a large bowl thoroughly combine the remaining teaspoon salt, flour, the ¾ cup of sugar, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon; stir in walnuts. In medium bowl combine pureed apples with oil and egg; stir into dry mixture just enough to moisten. Turn into a greased 9- × 5- × 3-inch loaf pan, sprinkle top surface with the tablespoon sugar and bake one hour or until cake tester inserted in center comes out clean. Serve slightly warm with butter or apple butter.

Lizzie’s Corn Relish

Corn Relish

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 pints.


12 ears fresh corn

10 cups chopped green cabbage

3 yellow or red bell peppers, chopped

3 onions, chopped

8 cups apple cider vinegar

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons salt

1/4 cup mustard seeds


Remove kernels from ears of corn; separate any that stick together. In a very large nonreactive pot combine all ingredients; bring to a boil, stirring frequently, and simmer for 15 minutes. Pour into hot sterilized pint jars and seal. Process in boiling water bath for 15 to 20  minutes. With rubber-tipped tongs remove jars from bath and set aside to cool. Check that all jars have sealed; refrigerate any that have not sealed within 12 hours and use as soon as possible. Store sealed jars in a cool, dark dry place until ready to serve with meat, poultry or fish.