By Barbara Beltrami
I am a corn snob. I was brought up by corn snobs who wouldn’t deign to buy, cook or sink their teeth into an ear of corn unless it was just picked within the hour. The husk had to be bright green with no dry or brown edges and the silk had to be mostly green and well, silky. I learned that when selecting an ear of corn, one did not (as so many people erroneously and inconsiderately do) rip back the husk; instead one ran their fingertips gently up and down the ear of corn to feel for indentations which meant worm holes.
I’ve always been lucky enough to live near farm stands in the summer which, of course, given my snobbery, is the only time I’ll eat corn. This year I’ve noticed a hefty increase in price; at some stands it’s actually almost doubled since last year. However, I’m ok with that as long as the corn is so fresh I can stick my thumbnail in a kernel and it squirts instead of collapses.
The kind of corn I’m talking about should be crisp, sweet and succulent. If it sticks to your teeth when you bite into it, it’s not fresh, not worth whatever you paid for it even if it was cheap, and is better suited for fodder for farm animals. If it’s truly just picked, the only embellishment it needs is a slathering of butter and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. It’s best boiled or grilled. Everyone has his or her own theory about how to boil it or grill it; if the corn is fresh it’ll taste good no matter how or how long you cook it. And if it isn’t fresh it doesn’t matter either because it won’t taste good. Here’s the way I do it. And that’s what this corn snob has to say.
Boiled Corn
YIELD: Makes 8 servings
INGREDIENTS:
8 ears very fresh corn
2 sticks unsalted butter
Coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
DIRECTIONS:
Over high heat, bring a very large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, husk the corn and remove the silky threads. When water is at a full rolling boil, carefully drop corn into pot, cover, lower heat to medium high to maintain the boil and cook for 7 minutes. Remove corn from pot or let sit a few minutes, if desired. Stack on platter, slather with one stick of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve immediately with remaining butter, salt and pepper to accompany grilled meat, poultry or fish and a crisp salad.
Grilled Corn
YIELD: Makes 8 servings
INGREDIENTS:
8 ears very fresh corn
2 sticks unsalted butter
Coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
DIRECTIONS:
Heat grill to medium. Pull outer husks down to base; carefully strip silk away from ear, then pull husks back up. Fill a large pot or bowl with cold water and add one tablespoon salt; soak ears in salted water for 15 minutes. After removing corn from water and shaking off excess, place on grill, close cover, and turning every 5 minutes, grill for 15 to 20 minutes or until kernels are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. Peel off husks and brush generously with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with grilled meat, poultry or fish and a crisp salad.
Here are a couple of flavored butters that I think are really good with corn:
Lime-Chipotle-Cilantro Butter
YIELD: Makes approximately one cup.
INGREDIENTS:
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons adobo sauce
1 1/2 chipotle peppers in adobo (from a can), finely chopped
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 large garlic clove, finely minced
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Herb-Garlic Butter
YIELD: Makes approximately one cup.
INGREDIENTS:
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
2/3 cup combination of chopped parsley, basil and chives
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
2 large cloves garlic, minced
*DIRECTIONS FOR BOTH RECIPES:
Vigorously mash all ingredients together. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate till ready to use.
