Cooking Cove: Lighten up with soufflés
By Barbara Beltrami
Well into my cooking years, the idea of making a soufflé had always terrified me. I don’t remember when but at some point I learned that the famous dish with the reputation of being a success standard for any real cook originated in France in the early 18th century. I do remember being astounded. Really? The early 1700s?
So I decided right then and there that if they could make soufflés way back then with relatively primitive implements and heat, surely, armed with my electric mixer and oven and my trusty “New York Times Cook Book,” so could I. Hey, it was just some beaten eggs with a few other ingredients added, right?
I started with a cheese soufflé, then as I gained courage and confidence, I experimented with other recipes. That is not to say that I didn’t have some real flops along the way, but when those soufflés came out of the oven looking and tasting like the real thing, I couldn’t have been prouder. Here are the recipes that worked for me.
Cheese Soufflé
YIELD: 4 small or 2 large servings
INGREDIENTS:
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
¾ cup shredded cheddar cheese
3 eggs, separated
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375 F. Lightly butter a 7-inch soufflé dish. In a saucepan melt butter, then add flour and stir with a wire whisk until thoroughly blended. In another saucepan bring milk to a boil and, stirring vigorously, add all at once to flour mixture. Stir in cheese. Beat egg yolks, then once the cheese has melted, add a little of the hot mixture to them; mix and, stirring constantly, return slowly to the saucepan. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gently but thoroughly fold them into the cheese mixture. Pour mixture into soufflé dish and bake until fairly firm, about 30 to 45 minutes. Serve immediately.
Lemon Soufflé
YIELD: Makes 6 servings
INGREDIENTS:
4 eggs, separated
¼ cup hot water
1 cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons lemon zest
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter bottom and sides of one-and-a-half quart soufflé dish and sprinkle with sugar. Beat yolks until thick; gradually add hot water and continue beating with a wire whisk. Beating thoroughly after each addition, gradually add sugar. Add salt, lemon zest and juice and fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Turn into soufflé dish and place dish in a pan of hot water. Bake 30 to 45 minutes, until golden and fairly firm. Serve immediately.
Chocolate Soufflé
YIELD: Makes 6 servings
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¾ cup milk
Pinch salt
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cold strong coffee
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
4 egg whites, stiffly beaten
DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375 F. Butter a two-quart soufflé dish, then sprinkle bottom and sides with sugar. In a saucepan melt butter, add flour and stir with a wire whisk until blended. In another saucepan, bring milk to a boil and, stirring vigorously with the wire whisk, add all at once to the butter-flour mixture; add salt. In a double boiler with the water hot, but not boiling, melt the chocolate with the sugar and the coffee; stir into sauce, add vanilla and beat in egg yolks, one at a time. Cool, then fold in beaten egg whites and turn mixture into soufflé dish. Bake 30 to 45 minutes, until puffy and brown. Serve immediately.
