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Ellen Barcel

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A wind chime would make great holiday gifts for the gardener in your life. Stock photo

By Ellen Barcel

Well, the holidays will be here before you know it. Is there a gardener on your list who’s giving you a hard time? What do you get him or her that you haven’t given already? Of course, there are always gift certificates to your favorite nursery, new gardening shoes or a new tool. Gardening books and subscriptions to gardening magazines are nice, but are you looking for something unique? Different? Here are some ideas that you may not have thought of.

If your gardener has blueberries or other plants that birds love to dine on, consider a crop cage. The ones that I’ve seen range from $60 to $100. The cages are large enough that the gardener can actually walk into them — they even have doors. Made from steel and nylon netting, they protect from not only birds but deer, rabbits and other wildlife.

Smaller varieties, called popups, are lower, just 42 inches high and provide the same protection for smaller plants.  Both varieties are green, so they blend in with the rest of the garden but get the job done. These smaller varieties range from about $25 to $70 depending on size. Even smaller varieties of plant protection are just a foot high for even smaller plants like strawberries and lettuce. They cost about $20 each. Another really nice present if you’re gardener is doing battle with Bambi and friends is any one of the various deer repellents available.

Garden decorations are also available. Depending on the taste of your gardener, you could go classical (like Greek statues, sundials, bird baths or bird houses) or whimsical garden art, like statues of birds, colorful glass bottle trees, glass orbs or even glass flowers. One of my favorites is a set of three “flowers” made from old water spigots, painted in bright colors. Another is a flower made from knives, forks and spoons. Stop by your local arts and crafts fairs that flourish in December for a whole variety of garden art.

Being more practical, consider a new composter. I’ve seen one that is a tumbler, basically a barrel on a stand. There’s a side door that allows you to add material to be composted. There’s also a crank on the side that allows the gardener to turn the barrel easily, even every day. This makes the chore of turn over the compost pile really easy. It also speeds up the composting process. Some of these composters boast compost in just eight to 10 weeks. I’ve even seen one brand that has two separate chambers — one for almost ready compost and the second for a new batch you’re just starting.

For the mycologist (an expert in fungi), or just a mushroom lover, consider a mushroom growing kit. Grow the common button or even portobello mushrooms. The grower decides just how big or small their mushrooms are by how long they let them grow. A terrarium or unusual planter keeps greenery growing in the house.

For the lover of butterflies, consider a butterfly house to go along with the beautiful plants that attract them.

If you decide on a new potting bench, make sure you take some measurements first so that it will fit in the appropriate area. If the bench needs some sort of finishing, include a can of paint, stain, etc. and some brushes, perhaps with a promise to help come spring.

And, if your gardener comes in the house complaining of aches and pains from “overdoing” it in the yard, a new heating pad might make you an angel to them.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions and/or comments to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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The November tomato flowers and tomatoes in the author's garden — notice fallen leaves in the background. Photo Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Late autumn is a great time to access your gardening successes and failures. It’s well into November as I work on this column. My tomato plants have been very weird this year. I’ve grown tomatoes for decades. I’ve never had trouble with tomatoes setting fruit, always having a bountiful crop (except when the tomato blight struck). That is, until this year when I had few blossoms and no fruit.

This was a new experience for me. So, that got me started researching why the fruit would not set. All the information I’ve been able to find gave me some hints, but, none really explained why, now, well into autumn, the plants are setting fruit. Yes, I’ve got at least a half dozen green tomatoes and many more blossoms. And I’ve noticed two other gardeners whose plants were covered in green tomatoes in late October.

So, first some basic information on tomato plants in general. The tomato, which is a member of the nightshade family, was developed in Mesoamerica. Having been developed in such a mild climate, it needs warm weather to grow successfully. While many other plants can be put out in early to midspring, experts recommend not putting your tomato plants out until Mother’s Day (mid-May), although my father always said Memorial Day (the end of May), because they are so tender.

Tomato plants do not need a second plant to provide pollen like, let’s say, a holly bush does. There you need at least one male plant in the area usually for up to four or five female plants. Nor do they have different male and female flowers on the same plant, the way squash does. Look carefully at squash and you’ll notice that the early flowers do not set fruit since they’re the male ones. Then the female flowers open and soon they are the ones to produce fruit.

The tomato flowers contain both the male and female organs in the one flower. Usually a gentle breeze or insects causes the pollen to fall so the flower can pollinate itself. People who grow tomato plants in the house or in a greenhouse must help their plants along, gently shaking the plant or providing a gentle breeze to release the pollen.

Now back to the tomatoes outside. So, why no fruit?

◆ First of all, always keep your plants healthy by providing adequate fertilizer and water. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, and healthy plants are more likely to bear fruit.

◆ When the day temperature goes above 85 to 90 degrees, the pollen is no longer viable. Optimal day temperatures for setting fruit is 70 to 85 degrees.

◆ To set fruit, night temperature should be above 55 but below 75 degrees. If Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate with the adequate temperature range, the plants will not set fruit.

◆ In very humid regions, the pollen may become very sticky. It therefore won’t fall through the flower.

◆ Tomato plants need six to eight hours of full sun. Plant in an area with too much shade and you don’t get fruit.

◆ Tomatoes also need lots of water. If you’ve ever experienced blossom end rot, cracks in the bottom of the fruit, it’s due to the soil drying out. So, while you don’t want to plant the tomatoes in a marshy area, you do want to make sure that they have a consistently moist soil.

◆ Fungal diseases, such as the tomato blight of recent years, can also be a problem.

◆ Determinate plants set fruit early, while indeterminates need to be a bigger plant, so set fruit later in the season. Determinate plants are more compact. They are varieties that reach a certain size and no bigger, such as ‘Bush Early Girl,’ ‘Better Bush,’ ‘Elfin’ and ‘Grand Cherry.’ Indeterminate plants like ‘Big Beef’ and ‘New Girl’ keep growing like a vine. If conditions aren’t right later in the season, you won’t get fruit from indeterminates.

◆ Fertilizer with too high a nitrogen content leads to lush (lots of greenery) plants but not necessarily lots of fruit. Use a more balanced fertilizer, such as one whose label reads 10-10-10.

So, why didn’t my plants set fruit this summer? My guess is that they weren’t getting enough sun and I moved them to a more sheltered area, one without a breeze or insects to release the pollen. Next growing season the plants go back to where I grew them in past years. As to why they’re setting fruit now, my best guess is that we’ve had a very mild autumn, and therefore Mother Nature has provided the right day and night temperatures for fruit to set.

A final note — if you are growing plants from seed, you need to start them six to eight weeks before you plan to put them out. Start late March or early April and in a sunny window. If the plants become very leggy, the stem can be planted deep into the soil outside as roots will develop anywhere along the stem. Putting them outside in a cold frame first helps to harden off the tender plants, but watch the weather. If a cold spell is predicted in early to mid-May, hold off bringing them outside until the weather is warmer. To maximize tomato yield, select early, midseason and late tomato plants.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions and/or comments to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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Purple lunaria flowers. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

One of the reasons I really like perennial plants is because it’s the “plant once, enjoy for many years” form of gardening. Perennials, provided they are adapted to your growing conditions (hardiness zone, fertilizer, soil pH, amount of water, etc.) will return year after year.

But, there is another way of planting once and enjoying for many years — by growing plants that are known for self-seeding. They put out seeds in the late summer and fall, the seeds survive your winter conditions and germinate the next year. Some of these are biennials, which means that the individual plant will grow back a second year in addition to scattering seeds. Some are annuals, with the original plant dying and only the seeds surviving the next year.

If you do decide to plant self-seeding plants, make sure you know what the seedlings look like. While in some cases the seedling looks very much like the mature plant’s leaf, in other cases, it’s hard to tell. You don’t want to accidently pull out a desired plant thinking it’s a weed.

There’s another caution with self-seeders. Because they produce so many seeds, they can become invasive with your flower bed looking very messy. So, you need to be careful in planting them and not be hesitant to “rip out” what grows where you don’t want it.

One of the best self-seeding plants is lunaria (pennies, honesty, money plant). The name comes from Latin, meaning moon-like, which refers to the oval, silvery seedpods that are produced on the plant toward the end of the growing season. While some are annuals or perennials, most commonly found in seed catalogues are biennials.

The flowers are beautiful — white or purple — and appear in spring with seed pods the second year after sowing. They are easy to naturalize if you have a wooded or partly wooded area where the seedlings won’t be disturbed. A mass of these is stunning even from a distance away. The flowers can also be collected and dried for arrangements. Make sure you leave some flower go to seed for next year. Foxglove is another biennial that self-seeds.

Another self-seeder (which is also a perennial) is Echinacea, that is, coneflowers. These beautiful flowers attract birds, which love the seeds. Leave the seed heads on the plants in fall. What’s not eaten will fall to the ground and come spring, more plants will grow.

Other self-seeding annuals include New England asters, coreopsis, feverfew, violets, sweet peas and blue woodruff.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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Large canna leaves are topped with beautiful bright red flowers. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

As you plan your next garden, you might want to consider planting tender bulbs in the spring that will produce beautiful flowers in mid to late summer, a time when there are fewer flowers in bloom. Tender bulbs include gladiolas, calla lilies, caladium, dahlias and cannas.

Some are bulbs, some rhizomes, some tubers and some corms (see my columns of last Jan. 25 and Feb. 5 for details on the botanical differences). What the glads, dahlias etc. all have in common is that they are geophytes, that is, plants with underground storage units, and all need protection from Long Island’s cold winters. The easiest way to do this is to lift them from the garden in the fall, dry them and store them in an unheated shed or garage and then replant them in spring. You could also treat them as annuals, buying new each spring. That’s up to each gardener.

If you find that any of your summer flowering bulbs are affected by disease, such as a fungal disease, it’s best to discard the bulbs and start from scratch next year, unless you have a very special plant you wish to save (use a fungicide then). Do not put diseased plants in your compost pile as you are just saving the disease pathogens for next year.

Large canna leaves are topped with beautiful bright red flowers. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Large canna leaves are topped with beautiful bright red flowers. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Remember that the first year you plant any of the above, they should do extremely well, as they are producing leaves and flowers based on last year’s care, that is, the grower’s care. To make sure that the bulbs, rhizomes etc. do well in future years, you need to water them adequately and provide fertilizer the current growing season. Then next year your bulbs should continue to thrive as well. Mulching them during the summer will help to keep the soil from drying out during periods of little or no rain.

Calla lilies are not true lilies at all. The tender variety are sold in the spring as rhizomes or potted plants. They are natives of South Africa and come in a rainbow of colors. Canna lilies have a very unique shaped flower, which is almost modernist.

They do best in well-drained soil (ideal for Long Island’s sandy soil) and full sun. Store the rhizomes in peat moss over winter. Calla lilies can be grown as houseplants but do need a period of dormancy, so don’t panic if the leaves die down. Let them rest a few months and they should be ready to grow again.

Caladium consists of many hundreds of varieties, including elephant ears. There are many cultivars that have arrowhead-shaped leaves that are six to 18 inches long and filled with stunning colors (green, white, pink and red) and patterns. They are native to the Americas (Central and South America). The wild plants go dormant in the dry season but are only hardy in zone 10. Since they prefer partial shade, they bring color to the shade garden.

Cannas are tropical plants that grow from rhizomes. They are native to the southern part of the United States and through Central and into South America. They’re grown not only for their large showy leaves but also for their beautiful flowers

While the most common varieties of cannas have green or red leaves with bright red flowers, there are other flower colors as well, including pink (‘City of Portland’), yellow (‘King City Gold’ and ‘Yellow Futurity’), coral (‘Tropical Sunrise’) and orange (‘Orange Beauty’ and ‘Wyoming’) to name just a few.

Cannas do best in full sun and in a well-drained soil. Long Island’s sandy soil is just fine, but do remember to water them during periods of drought, like we had this past summer. You can try growing them from seeds, but some varieties are sterile. Canna rhizomes are sold in the spring or you can sometimes find potted plants. While some cannas can be quite large —up to five feet — there are dwarf varieties.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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Weeping willow trees are beautiful, graceful deciduous trees. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Many years ago, I had two absolutely beautiful weeping willow (Salix babylonica) trees. They easily topped my two story house, and then some. I really enjoyed walking underneath the branches, looking out at the world, sort of like looking out through a light green curtain. And they provided beautiful shade.

Then, a really nasty hurricane came along. Down went the first and then the second tree. This happened when other trees — maple, oak and pine — all survived.

What happened? The answer is that weeping willow trees (natives of Asia) are very shallow rooted. When the wind really picked up, the roots couldn’t hold the trees in the wet soil, so down they went. And mine weren’t the only ones I saw down.

Does that mean that you shouldn’t plant weeping willow trees? Not necessarily. If you have an area sheltered from the wind, like a hollow, this might be the ideal location.

There’s another problem with the weeping willow tree. It craves water, so if you really want to plant this fast growing, graceful tree, make sure it’s not near a cesspool, well or in-ground swimming pool, as the roots can head in that direction, doing damage to the concrete.

The weeping willow tree grows well in U.S. Dept. of Agriculture hardiness zones 6 to 8 (Long Island is right in the middle at zone 7). It particularly likes to grow near water, but while the hardiness zones are limited, it does tolerate a wide range of soil pH levels. It’s a great shade tree quickly reaching 30 to 40 feet tall, growing as wide as is tall. Give this one plenty of room.

Another willow, pussy willow, (S. discolor) is native to North America. The deciduous shrub first produces furry catkins (or cat’s feet) in early spring. Many people like to cut branches from this stage of the plant and use them in dried arrangements or to make wreaths. If you do cut branches, do not put them in water or they will progress to the next stage, flowers.

After flowering, this easy to grow plant then produces green leaves. It is definitely grown for the early catkins. Pussy willow grows well in zones 4 through 8 or 9 (depending on variety).

Although most pussy willow plants produce gray catkins, there’s a rare variety (‘Mt. Asama’) that has a burgundy ones. A weeping pussy willow (S. caprea ‘Pendula’) can be grown as a small ornamental tree reaching 6 to 8 feet tall. As most weeping plants, the latter is really nice in winter when snow and ice covers the weeping branches.

Another popular willow that does well on Long Island is the dappled willow (S. integra). Like many other willows, the shrub is fast growing and can easily reach 15 to 20 feet tall and wide. However, if you really like this shrub, it can be pruned to keep it much smaller. In fact, it’s the new branches in spring that have mottled leaves that make it really stand out in the garden.

The dappled willow does well in hardiness zones 4 to 9. It is a native of eastern Asia, including China, Japan and Korea. Like other willows, the flowers are catkins (a cylindrical flower with no obvious petals). The cultivar ‘Hakuro Nishiki’ comes out very pale pink in spring.

Are willows deer resistant? Good question. Some sources say yes and some no, so you’ll have to see what the deer in your area like. However, rabbits do like willows, so you should take whatever precautions you normally take to keep your plants safe from them. While willows, in general, like moist soil, some varieties are somewhat drought tolerant once established. In general they like sun but tolerate light shade, and do well in a wide variety of soil conditions.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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Nan Guzzetta's collection of 1920s accessories. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Coming off the Spirit Tour in Setauket and Halloween, Nancy Altman “Nan” Guzzetta is preparing for the Dickens Festival in Port Jefferson — preparing costumes that is. As owner of Antique Costumes and Props By Nan in Port Jefferson, she provides high-end costumes for a wide variety of events including entire shows, themed weddings, historic anniversary celebrations and a whole lot more. Upcoming events for which Guzzetta will provide costumes include “The Music Man” in East Northport and the Santa Parade and Santa’s Workshop in Port Jefferson to name just a few.

Nan Guzzetta’s famous pincushion. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Nan Guzzetta’s famous pincushion. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Guzzetta’s attention is to detail, historical accuracy being her strong suit. “We don’t do Disney or Star Wars,” but Henry the VIII, that’s another story, or Gatsby, Titanic or Downton Abbey inspired pieces. “I work with museums a lot, for their galas.” When the Long Island Museum in Stony Brook opened its recent Gilded Coast exhibit,  “I costumed people for the gala.” And, she added, “Oheka Castle has a big garden party every year. I costume for that.”

The Dickens Festival honoree was “costumed yesterday,” she added. And “we did the 350th anniversary of Smithtown … we did a descendent of Bull Smith.” Richard “Bull” Smith is said to have drawn up the boundaries of Smithtown in the 1600s when he rode a bull around a tract of land.

Other costumes available include classic movie stars, ancient Egyptian and Roman outfits and even Marie Antoinette. She also provides all sorts of accessories such as fencing foils for the Musketeers, art deco jewelry to go with early 20th century ball gowns and fancy hats to complete an ensemble. She even provides hat pins to hold the elegant head pieces in place.

Antique Costumes is located in a historic Civil War era house, the Captain Henry Hallock house. Hallock was a Port Jefferson sea captain and shipbuilder. The house is sometimes referred to as the Chambers Mansion as it was later owned by Dr. Martin Luther Chambers. The mansion was also the home at one time of the Moose Lodge and the Slavic Cultural Center.

The mansion has a fascinating history all its own. In the 1970s the English band Foghat recorded a number of its gold records there. Billy Joel and Bruce Springsteen also produced recordings at the mansion. Guzzetta added that it was one of the foremost recording studios in the Northeast at the time. The building also has a stage where live productions were once held.

Nan Guzzetta's medieval costumes with headpieces. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Nan Guzzetta’s medieval costumes with headpieces. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Costumes in the mansion are arranged by theme: the children’s room, the Downton Abbey rooms, the wedding room, the red carpet room, the Renaissance room, etc. Tucked between costumes is a door leading to Guzzetta’s personal research library. And through the passage way is the theater.

Filled with energy and a fount of knowledge, Guzzetta said, “Isn’t this fun?” as she showed one room after another filled with costumes.

Many of the events she costumes for will hold prizes for the best costume, Guzzetta said. “I can boast that we have more prize winners than any other.”  She added that a man recently rented a Christopher Columbus costume. He was asked to lead, not only one or two, but six different Columbus Day parades. “He’s sending us pictures.”

But, she also added that “We’re the best kept secret,” around. Why? Because many people don’t like to share their secret. They want people to think that they make their own elegant and historically accurate outfits.

When asked how things have changed over these 40 years that she’s been in business, she noted that “It’s changed dramatically.” There are fewer themed weddings, for example, but there are many more historic celebrations, like a 100th anniversary celebration in Cold Spring Harbor last year. She recently designed a costume for a book on Nikola Tesla, the 19th century Serbian-American inventor whose Shoreham, Wardenclyffe, laboratory is currently under restoration.

Guzzetta added that with the Internet, her business now is not only local but national and even international.  People sometimes rent here and bring the costumes to “Venice for Carnival or New Orleans for Mardi Gras.” She accommodates magazine and greeting card shoots, as well as commercials. She even rents vintage furniture.

When asked when is her biggest season, Guzzetta observed that the need for her high-end costumes is really spread throughout the year. In planning large events people contact her “well in advance,” but “Halloween is frequently last minute.” But Halloween is not just for kids. More and more adults are attending masquerade balls and parties where costumes are a must.

From Nan Guzzetta's collection of Americana uniforms. Photo by Ellen Barcel
From Nan Guzzetta’s collection of Americana uniforms. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Not only does Guzzetta have costumes, ready to be rented, but “we built them,” as well. “Over the years we’ve collected many vintage items … we rarely rent out the vintage ones,” now, but use them as models for new pieces. “I collect the best of every period and rent it.”

How does she deal with all the different sizes and shapes of her clientele? In some cases, she has several different sizes of a particular costume. In others she will alter them to fit. “All alterations are done here at no extra charge.” In other cases, she does what many theater productions do: There’s a slit in the back and the costume is laced up to fit the wearer. And, if she’s “building” a new costume, she has the renter’s measurements. Usual rental for individuals (it varies for theater productions) is three days, one to pick up the costume, one for its use and one to return it.

“We do teas and tours here,” too. The tea service can include a tour of the restored mansion or a tour and lecture, the group’s choice.

How did Guzzetta, who was a registered nurse, develop such a unique business? A lover of art and history, she opened an antique shop in Port Jefferson acquiring some costumes. But, “when I couldn’t get any more vintage costumes, I began renting (rather than selling) them and then making copies.” But for her, it’s not really work at all. “It’s a joy to come in every day.”

Antiques Costumes and Props by Nan is located at 709 Main Street, Port Jefferson (parking off Jones Avenue). Call 631-331-2261 or go to www. antiquescostumes.com. The business is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays by appointment only and weekends in special circumstances.

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Flowering quince blooms before leaves appear. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

The gardening season is winding down. You’ve probably enjoyed your tomatoes and have started thinking about your herbs and how to preserve them for winter use (you can, of course, bring container grown herbs into the house in a sunny location).

So, it’s hard to think of spring flowers when we’re facing autumn’s mums and winter’s chill. However, it you want a gorgeous, early spring garden, there are certain things you must do now.

◆ Plant your spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.). They can actually be planted as long as the ground is not frozen.

Fothergilla is a slow grower. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Fothergilla is a slow grower. Photo by Ellen Barcel

◆ Plant your spring flowering trees. These include dogwood, magnolia, flowering cherry, flowering crab apple and redbud.

◆ Plant shrubs that bloom in early spring. If you already have some in the ground, do not, I repeat, do not, prune them in late autumn. You will be removing next spring’s flower buds. Rule of thumb, prune flowering shrubs immediately after they have bloomed so as not to interfere with their bloom cycle.

Probably the earliest shrub to bloom in spring is witch hazel, with its delicate yellow flowers. In a mild winter it may even bloom in February, but March is more likely. Since it is blooming so early, the flowers come out long before the leaves. And, yes, this is the plant from which the astringent witch hazel is made.

Forsythia also blooms before the leaves appear with a mass of yellow flowers. You can even force the flowers in late winter if you see flower buds starting to form. Cut some branches, bring them indoors and put them in a vase with room temperature water. Soon, the vase will be filled with the cheery flowers. Forsythia plants make a great, easy to grow hedge. A fast grower, they can be cut back to make them the height you want.

Witch hazel with its yellow flowers is the earliest bloomer on Long Island. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Witch hazel with its yellow flowers is the earliest bloomer on Long Island. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Flowering quince produces gorgeous red, pink or orange flowers, again, before the leaves appear. The plant can easily reach up to six feet tall, but there are shorter cultivars. A native of China, it is usually grown here for its flowers, not its fruit. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Some varieties have thorns while others are thornless. Check the tag or research the cultivar if you either want (as a barrier) or don’t want (around kids) thorns.

The P.J.M. Rhododendron blooms in early spring, usually April, ahead of most rhodies, which tend to come out in May. The pinkish-purple blossoms are born on a relatively slow growing plant that reaches three to six feet in height. An evergreen, it does well in partial shade in hardiness zones 4 to 8. A row of them makes a lovely, relatively low hedge.

Pieris (andromeda) comes out quietly in spring. Most plants available have either white or pink flowers, but ‘Valentine’ has absolutely beautiful burgundy flowers. ‘Valentine’ blooms ahead of the other varieties, frequently before I’ve tidied up the garden in spring.

Fothergilla blooms with lovely white flowers. The slow-growing, deciduous shrub blooms in April to May after the leaves appear. The plant does well in zones 5 to 8.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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Ann Marie's Farmstand in Port Jefferson Station displays some of the many different varieties of squash available in the fall. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Squash, the genus Cucurbita, are grown today extensively throughout the world as a food source. They are one of the Three Sisters (corn, beans and squash), which were developed in the Americas and then taken by European explorers back home.

One of them, zucchini is so closely associated with Italian cooking that most people don’t realize that it is a native of the Americas, not Italy.

Squash are generally grouped in two categories, summer squash and winter squash. Most are vines and, although some are perennials, they are grown in temperate regions as annuals. The plants easily self-seed. I’ve even seen them growing along sidewalks from seeds that overwintered from decorative pumpkins left outside.

Incidentally, although gourds look similar to squash, they are not native to the Americas, but rather Africa.  The same is true of melons. Gourds and melons, however, are related to squash (family Cucurbitaceae, but a different genus).

Ann Marie's Farmstand in Port Jefferson Station displays some of the many different varieties of squash available in the fall. Photo by Ellen Barcel
Ann Marie’s Farmstand in Port Jefferson Station displays some of the many different varieties of squash available in the fall. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Squash, botanically are fruit, in the same way that tomatoes are. They are the ripened seed pod of the plant. Summer squash are harvested in summer, before the skin hardens. Summer squash include zucchini, yellow summer squash, scallop squash and yellow crookneck squash.

Winter squash are harvested in fall, after the skin has hardened. Therefore, these squash need to be peeled before use. Varieties of winter squash include hubbard squash, turban squash, pumpkin, butternut squash, acorn squash and spaghetti squash. We tend to think of winter squash as traditionally served at Thanksgiving (pumpkin pie and butternut squash in particular); however, spaghetti squash is available in supermarkets year round and is frequently roasted and served with tomato sauce, in place of spaghetti made from wheat to cut down on carbs.

Squash are known for their high vitamin content (particularly A) and trace minerals, making them an excellent addition to the diet.

My favorite butternut squash recipe takes butternut squash cubes cooked with sausage, thyme, salt and pepper in a skillet in chicken or beef broth with some onions until the sausage and squash are done.

Squash blossoms are edible as well. The ones generally seen in markets are zucchini blossoms. They are usually fried, but they can be baked, stuffed with cheese and spices, served with spaghetti or in soups. There are plenty of recipes online to satisfy all.

Since zucchini plants are so prolific, you’ll still get plenty of squash if you eat some of the flowers.

Squash grows in a wide variety of soil types but does need fertilizer (for example, composted manure). They produce the most fruits in sun. They grow in a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.5 (very acidic to mildly alkaline, with 7 being neutral). They can be grown in large containers, so if you have a small yard, you can put the container on a deck or patio.

According to the seed company Burpee, cucurbits don’t like to have their roots disturbed, so either plant them directly outside, start them in peat pots, which can be planted whole in the garden, or buy seedlings from a nursery, being careful not to disturb the roots. They also suggest adding fertilizer when the plants begin to blossom and set fruit since squash are heavy feeds (like tomatoes).

Like tomatoes, these are tender plants. They like warm soil (so don’t put them out too early in a cool spring) and need a steady supply of water, so be aware of weeks of little or no rain.

Winter squash can also be used as outdoor decorations in the fall. Some squash develop into really weird shapes naturally while others are accidental crosses between two varieties producing things like green pumpkins.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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Eggplants come in many different shapes, sizes and colors. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Growing an eggplant is relatively easy on Long Island. Eggplants are in the Solanaceae (that is, nightshade) family. Cultivation of the eggplant is very similar to that of the tomato. It is a perennial in tropical regions but in our climate is grown as an annual. Like tomatoes, night temperature must be warm enough (65 degrees or more) in order for eggplant blossoms to set fruit. The plant will stop fruiting when the air temperature drops below 65.

Generally, the fruit is large and a deep purple or aubergine color. In fact, in some parts of the world, it is called aubergine, rather than eggplant. Size and color of the fruit, however, vary depending on the cultivar. Some eggplants produce a cream-colored fruit, making it really look like an egg, hence its name.

There are dozens of varieties of eggplant. ‘Jade Sweet’  is smaller in size and has a pale green-colored skin. ‘Black Stem’ eggplant is an ornamental with black stems and looks more like a tomato than an eggplant.  ‘Cookstown Orange’ also resembles a tomato. It has yellow, nonbitter flesh. ‘Casper’ is long and slim with ivory-white fruit. ‘Clara’ has a medium-sized white fruit. There are even varieties with long, slim fruits such as ‘Mackinaw’ and ‘Orient Express.’ Eggplant flowers in general are light to dark purple with yellow centers, but some cultivars have white flowers.

Eggplants grow best in a soil pH of 6.3 to 6.8, which is only mildly acidic. Test your soil first, but generally, on Long Island you will need to raise the pH by adding lime. If you grow the plant in a large container with potting soil, this will be less of a problem since most potting soil is closer to being neutral.

Eggplant grows best in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Make sure you water sufficiently, several times a week, especially when Long Island is going through its periodic droughts. Fertilize as you choose: compost, composted manure, compost tea or commercial fertilizer. Remember that you are going to be eating the fruit, so don’t put anything on the plants that is not rated for human consumption. Some chemicals tell the gardener to stop a certain number of days before harvest.

Mulch to keep the soil cool and conserve moisture. Space each plant two to three feet apart as these can be large plants. Like tomato plants, which usually need some support, large eggplants need support as well. Use stakes or a tomato cage.

If you decide to grow them from seed, it is recommended that you start the seeds indoors two months before you will move them outdoors. Harden the plants off before moving them permanently into the garden, in late May. That means start them in March. Since so many houses on Long Island do not have enough indoor light (plants get very leggy without enough sun), you might want to consider buying several plants from a nursery instead.

Because the raw fruit can be somewhat bitter, eggplant is usually cooked. Eggplant parmigiana is made basically the same way as veal parmigiana. Remove the skin first, slice, bread and fry. Serve with tomato sauce and mozzarella. A favorite recipe of mine is a turkey and eggplant casserole. Eggplant can also be grilled — season and coat with olive oil.

Other plants in the nightshade family include tomatoes and potatoes as well as bell peppers. Tobacco and petunias are also in the nightshade family. Atropia belladonna (also a nightshade) is toxic so pull it out if you see it growing wild in your garden. While tomatoes and potatoes are completely edible (unless you’re allergic to one or both), the leaves are not. Never, I repeat, never eat potato or tomato leaves.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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This small berm has stone edging as well as a decorative planter. Photo by Ellen Barcel

By Ellen Barcel

Do you have a problem spot in the garden or a garden that you feel is vulnerable, for example, to cars along a road way? You may want to consider building and planting a berm. Berms are described as an artificial ridge or embankment, used for defense or as a barrier — basically it’s a little hill. It’s also a way of providing privacy, redirecting foot traffic, creating a noise barrier, directing and controlling rainwater, blocking an unattractive view, creating a focal point or as wind protection. You can probably think of other uses, including creating interest in a flat landscape or as the center in a circular driveway.

To create the berm, make a plan on paper first. Generally, the berm should be four to five times as long as it is high. In general, berms are one to two feet high, but that is really up to you. They could be higher, even five or six feet.  The bigger the berm, the more fill you will need to create it. If you are using a contractor (strongly recommended if it’s a big job), the firm can provide the fill. If you are doing the work yourself, then make sure you don’t use fill that will add chemicals to the soil/groundwater. Also, don’t use wood as it will decompose and the berm (or at least part of it) will sink down into the surrounding  ground.

This section of a berm is adorned with large trees and hostas. Photo by Ellen Barcel
This section of a berm is adorned with large trees and hostas. Photo by Ellen Barcel

Once you or your landscape contractor have created the berm, you need to plant it. What plants you select really depends on why you created the berm in the first place. For example, if you did it as a noise barrier or to block an unsightly view, then you probably want evergreens since they will protect year round while deciduous trees or shrubs would not in winter. If it’s for privacy in an area that you only use in summer, then you could use deciduous plantings.

Another considerations is where the berm is located. If it’s in a very shady location, then you need to plant shade-tolerant plants. You could use rhododendrons (some reach a height of 10 or more feet tall), hostas and ferns. If it’s to create a focal point in a sunny location, you could use perennial flowers such as coneflowers, black eyed Susans, mums, etc.  Berms also work well as a place to install a rock garden.

Depending on the use, you might want a variety of plantings to supply year-round interest — rhodies in the spring, coneflowers in the summer, mums and ornamental grasses in the fall. Grasses are also lovely in winter with snow and ice on them. Red twig dogwood adds color to the winter garden. Don’t forget the mulch for spaces between plantings.

Berms can create a microclimate. If it blocks the sun, then one side could be cooler than the other. Or, if it blocks the wind, it might allow more tender plants to survive well on the protected side. Follow general landscaping principles, for example, put taller plants in back (or for a very large berm in the center) and shorter plants near the edges. Two plants create a more formal appearance while three (or five) create a more casual look.

When planning out your berm, you might want to add some small statuary, a birdbath, a bird feeder or in a sunny location, a sundial. Plan how you will access the center of the berm — for example,  several stepping stones. You also need to decide how you will edge the berm. You could just put some simple edging in where the berm meets the grass. Or you could put in a number of decorative stones. If the berm is very high, four or five feet tall or more, you may want to terrace it.

Autumn/winter is the ideal time to plan out what you want to do and how to do it. Research the plants that will be installed. Then come the first mild days in early spring, you can get started.

Ellen Barcel is a freelance writer and master gardener. Send your gardening questions to [email protected]. To reach Cornell Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener program, call 631-727-7850.

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