Cooking Cove: Jazz up meals with winter leeks
By Barbara Beltrami
If ever there was a veggie suited to winter cooking, it’s got to be the leek, which is like an onion but better because it’s sweeter and more colorful. And it doesn’t make me “cry” as much as an onion does when I’m cutting it up. The French love to use leeks in their cooking, and perhaps their best dish that uses them is their potato leek soup, potage aux poireaux, a savory and comforting bowl of creamy white or pale green goodness. Then there’s a hearty milk-poached fish dish with leeks and mashed potatoes or an unusual salad of leeks marinated in a vinaigrette and served up with walnuts and goat cheese that are just a few of my favorites. The one drawback for leeks is that they have to be carefully washed as there is often field dirt in between their leaves. However, it’s a small price to pay for such a wonderful veggie.
Potato, Leek and Fennel Soup
YIELD: Makes 8 servings.
INGREDIENTS:
2 quarts chicken stock
8 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
4 leeks, white part only, washed and sliced
1 fennel bulb, outer leaves removed, thinly sliced
1 cup half-and-half (optional)
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup snipped chives, for garnish
DIRECTIONS:
In a large pot, combine the chicken stock, potatoes, leeks and fennel; boil until everything is very tender and soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then puree in small batches until smooth, using immersion or regular blender or processor. Return to pot, stir in cream, if using, and parsley, add salt and pepper as needed and simmer until soup is thickened, about 20 minutes. Garnish with chives. Serve hot or warm with a hearty salad.
Marinated Leeks with Walnuts and Goat Cheese
YIELD: Makes 8 servings.
INGREDIENTS:
6 large leeks, roots, , tough outer leaves and 2 inches of tops of leaves removed
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove , minced
¼ cup white wine vinegar
2½ tablespoons Dijon mustard
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
½ cup finely chopped parsley
DIRECTIONS:
Slice leeks into half-inch disks; in a large pot of boiling salted water, cook them until very tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Place in bowl of ice water to stop cooking, drain and pat dry. Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk together oil, garlic, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. In a salad bowl, toss vinaigrette with leeks and walnuts; sprinkle with goat cheese and parsley. Serve at room temperature with crusty bread and meat, poultry or fish.
Milk-Poached Fish with Leeks and Potatoes
YIELD: Makes 4 servings.
INGREDIENTS:
1½ pounds potatoes, peeled, washed and cut into quarters
½ cup olive oil
2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, washed and halved lengthwise
4 sprigs thyme
2 garlic cloves, bruised
3 cups milk
Salt and pepper to taste
Four 6-ounce fish fillets such as cod, Chilean sea bass, monkfish, etc.
¼ cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
DIRECTIONS:
In a large pot, boil potatoes in salted water until very tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, but reserve half a cup of cooking water. Coarsely mash potatoes, add ¼ cup cooking water (more if needed) and half the olive oil to potatoes and set aside to keep warm. In a medium wide saucepan, combine leeks, thyme, garlic, milk, salt and pepper. Over medium heat bring to a simmer and cook until leeks are a little tender, about 8 minutes. Gently slide fish fillets into pan with milk and leeks; poach in liquid until fish is cooked through and flakes when tested with a fork, about 8 minutes; adjust to a simmer as needed. Divide potatoes, leeks and fish among four shallow bowls; garnish with parsley, drizzle with remaining olive oil before serving.