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Corn, Pepper & Manchego Quiche

By Barbara Beltrami

If the bins at a farm stand in August were a stage, corn would surely be the star. Occupying a massive spot in the produce limelight, freshly picked ears of corn tumble over each other vying to be selected after ruthless ripping of their husks, a procedure, by the way, that is useless for determining an ear of corn’s soundness and useful only to render it exposed and passed over. More effective is to run one’s hand or fingers lightly up and down the ear of corn to feel for indentations, a symptom most likely of an earworm or borer having gotten to it.

Nothing beats a freshly picked ear of corn, boiled for 3 to 5 minutes, then slathered with butter, salt and pepper. Want something a little different? Read the recipes below for some ideas for cooking with the queen of summer produce, corn.

Fresh Corn Pancakes

Fresh Corn Pancakes

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

3 to 4 ears fresh-picked corn

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon sugar

1 level teaspoon salt

½ cup whole milk

¼ cup heavy cream

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons canola, sunflower or vegetable oil

½ cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled

DIRECTIONS: Cut kernels from cobs. Set aside. In a small bowl, whisk or sift together the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, cream, eggs, oil and butter. Add flour mixture and corn kernels to liquid mixture; stir to thoroughly blend. Heat a greased griddle or heavy skillet until hot enough that water sprinkled on it produces dancing bubbles. Ladle batter onto skillet, by one-third cupfuls. Cook over medium heat until edges start to brown and bubbles form in batter. With a spatula, turn pancakes and cook about one minute more, until undersides are golden brown. Serve hot with blueberry or maple syrup and bacon.

Corn, Pepper & Manchego Quiche

Corn, Pepper & Manchego Quiche

YIELD: Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

One 9-inch pie crust

1 cup shredded manchego cheese

3 large eggs

1 tablespoon flour

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups half and half

¼ cup melted butter

Kernels from 2 ears fresh-picked corn

1 small onion, minced

1 small green pepper, diced

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375 F. Line a pie plate or quiche pan with pie crust. Sprinkle cheese evenly over crust. In a food processor, combine eggs, flour, salt, half and half and melted butter until well blended. Stir in corn, onion, green pepper and ground black pepper. Pour over cheese in crust. Bake 45 to 50 minutes until top is golden, filling is slightly puffed and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve with tomato and arugula salad and crusty French bread.

Grilled Corn with Cilantro-Lime Butter

Grilled Corn with Cilantro-Lime Butter

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

12 ears fresh-picked corn in the husk

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

6 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1½ teaspoons coarse sea salt

¾ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

½ to ¾ cup melted unsalted butter

¹/3 to ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

DIRECTIONS: Pull back corn husks but leave attached at bottom. Discard silks; pull husks back up around ears. Prepare grill for cooking on medium-high heat. In a blender, puree garlic with lime juice, salt, and red pepper flakes until smooth. Add melted butter and cilantro and puree again until well blended. With cover on grill, cook corn, turning frequently, until kernels are tender, 15 to 20 minutes; let stand until cool enough to handle. Completely remove husks and discard. With a sharp knife remove kernels from cob. In a medium-large bowl toss kernels with butter mixture. Serve hot or warm with grilled eggplant, sliced garden tomatoes with olive oil and scallion and crusty bread.

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Basil Pesto

By Barbara Beltrami

Have you ever known anyone who didn’t like the classic basil pesto? Easy to prepare in a matter of minutes, pesto is a no-fuss-no-cook-no-mess-no-fail concoction that is the invention of some ancient culinary genius in Genoa.

Pesto means sauce in Italian and although basil pesto is by far the best known and most popular version, it can actually be made from a variety of herbs and other ingredients. There are six basic ingredients to making pesto. There is the main ingredient such as basil or something with an intense distinctive flavor along with nuts, cheese, garlic, olive oil, and salt and pepper. How much? Good question. It’s one of those things that you do by eye and taste. Although once in a while I tweak the amounts a little. I generally use a handful of the main ingredient, a handful of the nuts, a handful of the grated cheese, one clove of garlic, enough oil to give the pesto the right silky consistency and salt and pepper, to taste.

That being said, I will nevertheless provide you with a few recipes I like. In addition to the classic basil pesto, there are arugula and walnut pesto and sun-dried tomato and olive pesto, to name but a few I’ve tried. Though there’s no space to write about them all here, you might like to use the following recipes as models and also try mint and almond pesto, cilantro and pumpkin seed or spinach and hazelnut. Traditional old-fashioned Italian cooks claim the only real way to make pesto is to pound and grind it together with a mortar and pestle and would be mortified to know that I puree it all in my electric food processor. And while pesto is best loved when paired with pasta, it is also a fabulous embellishment for chicken, fish, omelets, crostini, vegetables and soups.

Basil Pesto

Basil Pesto

YIELD: Makes 2 cups

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups fresh basil leaves

½ cup pignoli nuts

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

One garlic clove

Coarse salt and pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: In an electric food processor puree all ingredients except the salt and pepper. Pause occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl, then continue pureeing until mixture reaches a silky consistency. Remove from processor bowl and stir in the salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature with spaghetti, gnocchi or a pasta that has a lot of grooves to hold the pesto; crostini, grilled fish, chicken, pork or veggies or as a garnish to soup.

Arugula and Walnut Pesto

Arugula and Walnut Pesto

YIELD: Makes 2 cups

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups arugula leaves

½ cup walnut pieces

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: In an electric food processor, scraping sides of bowl often, puree all ingredients except salt and pepper. When mixture has achieved a slightly bumpy texture, remove from bowl and stir in salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature with grilled beef, veggies, fowl or pork, on rye bread crostini, over wide noodles or rigatoni or as a garnish to soup.

Sun-dried Tomato and Olive Pesto

Sun-dried Tomato and Olive Pesto

YIELD: Makes 2½ cups

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

½ cup pitted oil-packed black olives

½ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

¹/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

One clove garlic

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: In an electric food processor, scraping sides of bowl often, puree all ingredients until mixture achieves a finely ground consistency. Serve at room temperature over pasta, on crostini or crackers, on grilled chicken, fish or veggies or as a garnish to soup.

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By Barbara Beltrami

Like the weather this season, peaches have been remarkably good. If you read my column last week, you’ll remember that I talked about peaches and what ideal desserts are wrought from them. And I also promised you another column about them this week. Well, you’re in for a treat because I’m going to tell you about what wonderful ingredients or complements peaches are for savory dishes.

I’ll bet you’re thinking, “No thanks, I think I’ll just stick with the those peachy desserts.” That’s what I said the first time I was introduced to peaches in a savory dish. But then I became a convert, and you will too after you’ve tasted refreshing peach, arugula, Gorgonzola and pecan salad; peach salsa; and ginger-peachy pork chops.

And by the way, none of this means you can’t have peach dumplings, peach crisp, peach shortcake, peach pie, peach cobbler, peach ice cream or just sliced fresh peaches in wine for dessert. Hey, when they’re this good, you have to go for their gold.

Peach, Arugula, Pecan and Gorgonzola Salad

YIELD: Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS: 1 small head radicchio, washed and shredded or chopped

1 bunch arugula, washed

1 large peach, sliced

¼ cup chopped pecans

¹/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: In a large bowl, toss together the radicchio, arugula, peach and pecans. In a small bowl, vigorously whisk together the oil, vinegars, cheese, salt and pepper. Just before serving drizzle liquid mixture over radicchio mixture, toss to thoroughly coat, and serve immediately at room temperature with grilled chicken, beef, pork or shrimp.

Peach Salsa

YIELD: Makes 3 to 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

1 large peach, pared and chopped

1 medium tomato, chopped

½ cup seeded chopped jalapenos

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon fresh lime zest

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Salt and ground pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS: Toss all ingredients together; serve at room temperature. Best if served immediately but can be prepared a couple of hours in advance. Serve with taco chips, crackers, grilled beef or chicken.

Ginger-Peachy Pork Chops

YIELD: Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon vegetable, canola or peanut oil

4 medium pork chops

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

¼ cup orange juice

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ cup broth

1 teaspoon grated ginger

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 large firm peaches, sliced

1 tablespoon candied ginger, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped peanuts (optional)

DIRECTIONS: In a medium skillet heat the oil. Season the pork chops with salt and pepper. With the heat on medium high, brown the meat, about 2 minutes per side. While the chops are browning, in a medium bowl combine the brown sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, orange and lemon juices and set aside.

Remove the pork chops from the pan and set aside. Add the broth, grated ginger, garlic, liquid mixture and peaches to the skillet. Cook, stirring frequently, over high heat until the sauce is thickened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the pork chops, cover, reduce heat to low and cook until meat is cooked through and peaches are soft, about 10 minutes. Place chops on a platter, spoon sauce over them and sprinkle with candied ginger and peanuts. Serve with rice and stir-fried bok choy, broccoli and snap peas.

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Common foreign body risks in barbecues include corn cobs, peach pits, aluminum foil and skewers.

By Matthew Kearns, DVM

Aaaah, summer’s here and we know it by the smells in the air. Tantalizing aromas of steak, sausage, chicken, burgers and dogs. After dinner it’s marshmallows (sometimes with graham crackers and chocolate). I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love it (including our pets). As gratifying as it is to have friends and family over, we have to be careful of our “unofficial tasters” hanging around the barbecue.

Grease

Be very careful of grease both dripping from the barbecue and on the ground. Hot grease from drippings can cause burns to the skin and mouth, and old grease can grow mold and bacteria on it. Lastly, large amounts of grease can lead to severe vomiting and diarrhea and, potentially, a life-threatening condition called pancreatitis.

Raw meat

Dogs and cats don’t always wait for the food to be cooked before they decide to jump up on the counter and take some. Although many pet owners feel that the raw diet is the way to go, for pets raw chicken and beef can have some serious bacteria like various Salmonella species and E. coli, which will proliferate in the hot summer sun.

Foreign bodies

A foreign body in this context refers to anything a pet would be silly enough to swallow that will get stuck in the gastrointestinal tract. Common foreign body risks at barbecues are corn cobs (my favorite because you can see them on X-rays and know what they are), peach pits, aluminum foil, plastic wrap, string to bind roasts, bones (chicken, pork, beef) and skewers (wood or bamboo for shish kebab or teriyaki). Bones and skewers are the most dangerous because they not only have the potential to form an obstruction but can also penetrate the esophagus, stomach or intestines and lead to a life-threatening peritonitis.

Toxicity

Things like onions and garlic can cause significant gastrointestinal upset and, in larger amounts, GI bleeding. Fruit salads that contain grapes and snack mixes that contain raisins and toxic nuts like macadamias should be kept out of reach of our pets. Any fruits with pits should be either avoided (see “Foreign bodies” above) or carefully picked up. Things like ice cream and chocolate should also be kept away from pets. Large amounts of chocolate could lead to serious issues besides just an upset tummy (things like irregular heart rhythms, seizures, difficulty breathing) and, although most dogs tolerate dairy products, some are lactose intolerant (almost all cats are lactose intolerant as adults).

Heatstroke and burns

Pets (dogs particularly) may stay close to the barbecue even if it is out in the sun to be close to potential scraps. These guys don’t have the option to take off their coats, so make sure that plenty of water (with a few ice cubes is nice) is available and also make sure your pets have access to inside or the shade. Also remember that those grills can remain quite hot (especially charcoal grills) long after the barbecue is over, so make sure your pets do not have access to that area when no one is actually either grilling or monitoring that area. So, have fun in the sun and LIGHT THOSE GRILLS!!!! Just make sure our pets are not too close when you do.

Dr. Kearns practices veterinary medicine from his Port Jefferson office and is pictured with his son Matthew and their dog Jasmine.

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Peach Dumplings

By Barbara Beltrami

You know it’s really summer when the pyramids of peaches instead of apples greet you at the supermarket. You know it’s summer when you bite into a peach and the juice runs down your chin and forearm and you don’t even care. It’s when dessert is peach dumplings or peach crisp that you’ve baked early in the morning before the kitchen got too hot or you decided you’d really rather just lie in the shade or by the pool and read and nap. So get up with the birds this week, get those peachy desserts in the oven and stay tuned for next week’s column, Peachy Peaches Part II.

Peach Dumplings

Peach Dumplings

YIELD: Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

Pastry for two-crust pie

6 just ripe medium freestone peaches

6 tablespoons sugar

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed

DIRECTIONS: Make pie pastry, form into a ball, seal in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Meanwhile, pare peaches and be careful to keep peaches as whole as possible. With the tip of a small sharp knife, cut down from stem end of peach into peach and cut around pit to remove it. Fill each cavity left by pit with one tablespoon sugar and one tablespoon butter. Remove pastry from refrigerator and on a lightly floured surface, roll the ball into a 10-inch by 15-inch rectangle, about one-eighth-inch thick. Cut into 6 equal squares. Place a peach on each square; mold pastry around it until peach is completely covered. Place pastry-covered peaches in a deep baking dish and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425 F. In saucepan over medium heat, combine brown sugar with half a cup of water and, stirring constantly, cook 5 minutes. Spoon syrup over each dumpling. Bake 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 F and, basting with syrup 2 or 3 times, bake 30 to 40 minutes more, until crust is light golden and a sharp knife inserted into peach meets no resistance. Serve at room temperature or warm with whipped cream, vanilla or peach ice cream.

Peach Crisp

Peach Crisp

YIELD: Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

2½ pounds ripe peaches

1 cup flour

1 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

1 stick soft unsalted butter

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375 F. Lightly grease an 8- by 8- by 2-inch baking dish. Wash peaches; pare, if desired; remove pits. Slice peaches into prepared baking dish. Sift flour with sugar, salt, and cinnamon into medium bowl. With pastry blender or two knives, cut butter into flour mixture until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Sprinkle evenly over peaches. Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until topping is crisp and golden and peaches are bubbly and tender. Serve with heavy cream or vanilla ice cream.

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The Long Island Museum in Stony Brook will welcome food historian Sarah Lohman, on Sunday, July 30 at 2 p.m. Lohman will discuss her latest book, “Eight Flavors: The Untold Story of American Cuisine,” in conjunction with the museum’s Edible Eden exhibition. A self-proclaimed historic gastronomist, Lohman will take an in-depth look at locally grown crops and their origins. This program is free with regular museum admission.

Located at 1200 Route 25A in Stony Brook, The Long Island Museum is open Thursdays through Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from noon to 5 p.m. Regular museum admission is $10 adults, $7 for seniors 62 and older and $5 for students ages 6 to 17. For more information, call 631-751-0066 or visit www.longislandmuseum.org.

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Stock photo

“Barbecue is 25 percent inspiration and 75 percent perspiration.” — Bob Lipinski

By Bob Lipinski

I love to barbecue and enjoy grilling steaks, chops, ribs, vegetables, seafood and most other foods. While I’m grilling over hot coals, plenty of water or beer seems to quench my thirst, although a glass or two of a chilled white or red wine also works quite nicely, providing they’re dry with little or no oak.

I’ve put together a list of some recently tasted Italian red wines that I hope you too will enjoy with lunch or dinner.

2013 Casali Maniago “Refosco dal Peduncolo,” Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Ruby-colored with a fruity bouquet and flavor of spicy cherries, blackberries, plums and mint. Its high acidity makes it a wonderful accompaniment to steaks with a higher fat content.

2015 Torre Santa “La Rocca” Negroamaro, Apulia: Dark ruby color with a powerful bouquet and flavor of dark berries, coffee, dried plums, raisins and spices. Hints of cedar and licorice, with a bitter finish and aftertaste. Great for grilled vegetables brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and rosemary.

2015 Torre Santa “La Rocca” Primitivo, Apulia: Deeply colored with a bouquet and flavor of blackberry and blueberry, cherries, licorice and raisins. Dry with an aftertaste of figs, dried plums and nuts. Perfect with a chunk of Monterey Jack cheese served at room temperature.

2014 Fonte del Bacco “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo,” Abruzzo: Cherry-colored with a pleasing, fruity bouquet and flavor of blackberries and black cherries. Jammy flavors with plum, spice and mulberry abound. Some grilled eggplant with pesto would work well.

2012 La Fortezza “Aglianico,” Campania: Ruby-colored with a distinctive bouquet and flavor of cherries, red licorice and plums, with nuances of black pepper, tobacco and earthiness. Pair it with Asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano or provolone cheese.

2013 Bava “Libera” Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont: Garnet-colored with a deep bouquet of berries and spices. In the mouth, there are flavors of boysenberry, raspberry, black figs and licorice with hints of rosemary, nutmeg and violets. Perfect with a dish of spaghetti topped with spicy tomatoes.

2008 Bava “Barolo,” Piedmont: This 100 percent Nebbiolo wine was aged about three years in wood, followed by at least two years in the bottle prior to release. Maroon-colored with a fragrance of withered flowers, truffles, violets, dried fruit and licorice. Full-bodied and tannic in the mouth with flavors of mulberry, cherries, almonds, black pepper and dried plums. I’d serve this beauty with risotto and porcini mushrooms or grilled portobello mushrooms.

Bob Lipinski, a local author, has written 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need to Know About Whiskey” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He conducts training seminars on wine, spirit, and food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR [email protected].

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Red Gazpacho

By Barbara Beltrami

As much as hot soup is a tummy warmer in cold weather, cold soup can be a real refresher in warm weather. Most cold soups are really just pureed veggies or fruits … gazpacho, borscht and vichyssoise, all coolers from different European cuisines, immediately come to mind. Surely the most popular is gazpacho. Think it’s just a puree of tomatoes, bread and other fresh veggies? Think again. That’s red gazpacho. But there’s also white gazpacho called “ajo bianco” made with cucumbers, almonds and green grapes. Or green gazpacho made with cucumber, tomatillo, arugula, avocado, scallions, cilantro and parsley.

Take your pick and don’t feel that you have to follow the ingredients list religiously. Throw in whatever you have as long as it doesn’t radically change the flavor or color. And adding fruits just makes it even better. Think watermelon for the red gazpacho, peeled apple or pear for the white, honeydew for the green. Just think of them as smoothies served in a bowl.

Classic Red Gazpacho

Red Gazpacho

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups fresh cored and chopped tomatoes

1½ cups peeled, chopped cucumber

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped

1 clove garlic, sliced

½ cup water

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

2 slices bread, cubed

¼ cup chopped cilantro

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1 cup or more canned tomato juice

6 scallions, sliced

DIRECTIONS: In an electric blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients except the scallions. Puree until smooth. Pour into a sieve and place over a bowl; press and stir to extract as much juice as possible; discard solids. Adjust seasonings if necessary by adding more salt and/or vinegar. If the mixture is too thick, add more tomato juice. Chill before serving; garnish with sliced scallions. Serve with taco chips, crusty bread with extra virgin olive oil, Spanish olives or manchego cheese or crudités.

White Gazpacho

White Gazpacho

YIELD: Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

1 cup seedless green grapes, washed and coarsely chopped

1 apple or ripe pear, pared and cored, cut into chunks

1 cup peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped cucumber

2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

3 cups stale bread, coarsely chopped

½ cup milk

Coarse salt to taste

1 cup lightly toasted sliced almonds

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 to 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Finely ground white pepper, to taste

More vinegar, if desired

DIRECTIONS: In a medium bowl combine grapes, apple or pear, cucumber, garlic, bread, milk, 2 cups of water, and salt. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 12 hours. Transfer to a blender or food processor, add half the almonds, half a cup of the oil, the vinegar and salt and pepper. Blend until thick; add more water, a tablespoonful at a time, if too thick. Stir and press puree through a fine sieve into a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Pour mixture into individual bowls, drizzle with remaining quarter cup of oil, a little more vinegar if desired, and sprinkle with remaining half cup almonds. Serve chilled with chips, crackers or garlic bread.

Green Gazpacho

Green Gazpacho

 

YIELD: Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

¼ cup wine vinegar (preferably white)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

One 8-ounce container plain Greek yogurt

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

2½ to 3 cups Italian or French bread, crusts removed

1 large cucumber, peeled, seed and cut into chunks

1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped

4 large tomatillos, husked and coarsely chopped

1 handful arugula leaves

1 handful cilantro leaves

1 handful parsley leaves

Flesh of one avocado

4 scallions, sliced

2 jalapenos, seeded and chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, lime juice, yogurt and half a cup of the oil. Add remaining ingredients and toss thoroughly to be sure vegetables and bread are coated with liquid mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. Puree chilled mixture, a little at a time. Combine all pureed batches and mix thoroughly; add water, a little at a time, if too thick. Ladle into 6 individual bowls and drizzle with remaining quarter cup olive oil. Serve with chips and salsa, tacos, cheese and crackers or bread dipped in olive oil.

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Cherry Clafoutis

By Barbara Beltrami

There’s a bowl of cherries sitting on my kitchen counter, and every time I walk by and pop one into my mouth I think of Irving Berlin’s song about life being just a bowl of cherries and I think, “Really?” But then I remember another line from the song that says “…so live and laugh at it all” and I think, “OK, maybe he was right.”

Before I get any more philosophical, let’s talk about those cherries. True, they are wonderful on their own, and oh so nice to look at when they’re fresh and have a nice green stem and an unblemished dark shiny skin. Like most summer fruits, they don’t last long in that condition, but when they start to go, they also make a darn good clafoutis, pie or scone.

Cherry Clafoutis

Cherry Clafoutis

This a French skillet dessert with a flan-like filling and pitted or unpitted cherries. It couldn’t be easier or quicker to make unless you insist on pitting the cherries, which I always feel I should do if it’s for company.

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter for greasing

1¼ cups milk

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cherry liqueur or brandy

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon almond extract

6 eggs

Pinch of salt or to taste

¾ cup flour

3 cups pitted or unpitted dark cherries, stems removed

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease a 9-inch cast iron skillet or baking dish with butter. In a blender or food processor, combine the milk, sugar, liqueur, extracts, eggs, salt and flour; blend until smooth. Pour into skillet, then evenly scatter cherries on top. Bake until a golden crust has formed on top and bottom (lift gently with a spatula to check) and a sharp instrument inserted in center comes out clean. When cooled to warm or room temperature, dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve with iced coffee or tea in summer and hot coffee or tea in winter or a dessert wine any time.

Cherry Pie

Cherry Pie

Forever linked in American lore with George Washington and his honesty, cherry pie is so much more than the subject of a presidential tale. In fact, it may well be the queen of American fruit pies.

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

2 crusts for a 9-inch pie

4 cups fresh cherries, pitted

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

2/3 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon almond extract

2 tablespoons butter

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. For the bottom crust, making sure it overlaps the edges, line a 9-inch pie plate with rolled-out dough. Mix cherries with tapioca, sugar and extract. Let stand for 15 minutes. Pour into pie plate. Dot with butter. Cover with a second circle of rolled-out dough (be sure to make slits so the steam can escape) or woven lattice strips cut from the dough. Bake 10 minutes at 450 F, then lower heat to 350 F and bake another 35 to 40 minutes, until crust is golden and cherry mixture is bubbly and thickened. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Cherry Scones

Cherry Scones

Serve these cherry scones warm from the oven and your guests are sure to enjoy them. Scones are traditionally served with jam and clotted cream, a British cross between butter and whipped cream; but it’s hard to find, bothersome to make and not for the uninitiated palate anyway. Really good Irish creamery butter is better, I think.

YIELD: Makes about 12 scones

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups flour plus 2 tablespoons

1 scant teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons baking powder

2 tablespoons sugar

5 tablespoons cold butter

3 eggs

¾ cup cream

½ cup pitted chopped fresh cherries

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 450 F. In a food processor, combine the two cups flour, salt, baking powder and sugar. Using pulse button, add the butter, one tablespoon at a time until it is completely blended. Beat two of the eggs with the cream and pulse once or twice only to blend with ingredients in processor. Stir in the cherries (do not pulse). Scrape the dough onto a board dusted with the remaining two tablespoons flour. Knead 10 or 12 times, then press into a one-inch thick rectangle. Using a biscuit cutter or glass, cut dough into 2-inch rounds and place on an ungreased baking sheet. Being careful not to overwork it, press the remaining dough into a new rectangle and repeat procedure. Mix third egg with one tablespoon water and brush tops of scones with it. Bake until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Serve with butter and cherry jam, coffee or tea.

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Pan Bagnat

By Barbara Beltrami

Some of you may remember Starkist’s Charlie the Tuna, the suicidal fish who boasted about the superiority of his peers who made it to the cannery. I don’t even know if he’s still around, but I do know that good tuna is a real treat whether it’s white albacore whipped into a salad with mayonnaise and celery and maybe a little onion or belly tuna packed in olive oil and served as part of an antipasto or just a fresh tuna steak, seasoned, then seared on the outside and rare or raw on the inside.

Beyond these basic and familiar tuna preparations are myriad dishes that seem to emanate particularly from the Mediterranean countries and are real palate pleasers. An unusual summer sandwich is something called pan bagnat, French for “wet bread,” composed of tuna, olive oil, vinegar, tomatoes and anchovies plus variable other ingredients on crusty French bread. Now think about a fresh grilled tuna burger with wasabi mayonnaise or tonnato sauce, a creamy tuna emulsion that is as good as a dip as it is as a sauce.

Pan Bagnat

Pan Bagnat

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

One crisp-crusted baguette about 18 inches long

4 to 6 flat anchovies

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon coarse sea salt or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Two 6-ounce cans oil-packed tuna with their oil

One medium red onion, peeled and cut into thin rings

Two hard-boiled eggs, sliced thin

½ cup chopped Kalamata olives

One large firm ripe tomato, thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS: Slice the baguette in half along its length. Scoop out enough of the soft part of the bread inside to make a well in each half. With a fork, evenly distribute the anchovies along the length of the bottom half of the bread. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper and oil from tuna until it forms a creamy emulsion. Place the tuna, onion, eggs, olives and tomato in order given on top of anchovies. Drizzle oil mixture evenly over layered ingredients and immediately cover with top half of baguette. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, set on a flat surface at room temperature and weight down with a heavy skillet in which have been placed a couple of heavy cans or objects. Let sit at least two hours; then slice into four sandwiches. Serve with potato salad or chips, fruit and cheese and a light red wine or ice cold beer.

Tuna Burger with Wasabi Mayonnaise

Tuna Burger with Wasabi Mayonnaise

 

YIELD: Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

1 pound ahi or sushi-grade tuna, finely chopped

One egg, beaten ¼ cup minced onion

½ cup bread crumbs

Coarse sea salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon wasabi powder

1/4 cup mayonnaise

4 hamburger rolls

1 cup lettuce leaves, washed and dried

4 slices tomato

DIRECTIONS: In a medium bowl whisk together the sesame oil, soy sauce and pepper flakes. Add tuna, egg, onion, bread crumbs and salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and form into four patties, cover and refrigerate half an hour. Meanwhile, preheat grill on high and mix wasabi powder with two teaspoons warm water; add resulting paste to mayonnaise and mix thoroughly. Grill tuna patties one and a half minutes on each side for rare, longer for medium and well done. Place on bottom halves of rolls, top with lettuce and tomato and spread top halves with wasabi mayonnaise. Serve immediately with potato chips or french fries and cole slaw.

Tonnato (Tuna) Sauce or Dip

Tonnato Dip

YIELD: Makes 1½ cups

INGREDIENTS:

One 4-ounce jar Italian oil-packed tuna with oil

3 anchovy filets, chopped

1½ tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/3 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: Puree all ingredients in electric food processor until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Serve with crostini, potato chips, crackers, crudités or over simply seasoned pork, fish, chicken, veal or pasta.

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