Wine and Cheese: Drinking older Bordeaux wines

Wine and Cheese: Drinking older Bordeaux wines

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By Bob Lipinski

‘No, Agnes, a Bordeaux is not a house of ill repute.’ 

— George Bain 1920–2006, Canadian author, “Champagne is for Breakfast,” 1972

At a fabulous private wine event, I had the opportunity of tasting wines from three classic Bordeaux wineries dating back to 1982. The wineries were Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Château Branaire-Ducru, and Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte. Leading the sit-down discussion were representatives from each of the Bordeaux estates. My tasting notes of some of the wines are below.

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac; fifth growth—1855 Classification)

Produces only red wine from a grape blend that varies by vintage; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.

2009: Dark red color with a complex bouquet of fruits, black currant, cedar, spices, licorice. Youthful.

2006: Bouquet of black currant liqueur with hints of cedar, black tea. Still tannic.

2005: Garnet-color with hints of cherries, black currants, spices and wet stone. Still quite youthful.

2000: Brick-color; bouquet of cherries, mint, licorice, and plums. Still quite flavorful and fruity.

Château Branaire-Ducru (Saint-Julien; fourth growth—1855 Classification) 

Produces only red wine from a grape blend that varies by vintage; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Wines are aged in oak barrels for 16 to 20 months.

2011: Dark color with a bouquet of cedar, sweet cherries, chocolate, and spices. Some tannin to lose. Overall quite young.

2010: Closed, tight nose; heaps of fruit, well-balanced, tannin and plenty of cherries.

2008: Perfumed bouquet, violets, dried red fruits, well-balanced, still tannic, some black currants.

2005: Bouquet loaded with brown baking spices (cinnamon, nutmeg), wonderfully structured, softening. Still youthful.

1989: Perfumed bouquet of roses, cherries and violets. Medium-full bodied and elegant but thinning out. Drink by 2020.

1982: Brick-color; certain sweetness of fruit; soft, elegant with some tannin, hint of tea and orange peel. Drink by 2020. 

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Martillac, Graves)

Red wines are made from a grape blend that varies by vintage; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Red wines are aged in oak barrels for about 18 months.

2010 ‘Blanc’: (Blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 5% Sémillon grapes) Bouquet and flavor of coconut, marzipan, citrus, peach, mango and ripe melons. 10 months in oak.

2012 ‘Blanc’: (Blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 5% Sémillon grapes) Flavors of peach, apricot and citrus, with hints of caramel and star anise. 10 months in oak.

2012 ‘Rouge’: Dark colored with huge mouthful of black tea, black currants, spices and black cherries.

2009 ‘Rouge’: Full-flavored with red fruits abounding; spices, perfumed bouquet, cinnamon and raspberries.

2000 ‘Rouge’: Notes of sweet cherries, cranberry, licorice, and black raspberry with light tannins. Elegant.

1998 ‘Rouge’: Maroon-colored with an earthy bouquet; black currants, dark fruits, sweet cherries, leather, mushrooms. Velvety and very long aftertaste. Wow!

Bob Lipinski, a local author, has written 10 books, including “101: Everything You Need to Know About Gin, Vodka, Rum & Tequila” and “Italian Wine & Cheese Made Simple” (available on Amazon.com). He conducts training seminars on wine, spirits and food and is available for speaking engagements. He can be reached at www.boblipinski.com OR bkjm@hotmail.com.

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