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cooking cove

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Easy Plum-Almond Galette

By Barbara Beltrami

In the heart of summer when fresh stone fruit and all kinds of berries beckon to us, it’s the season for putting them in galettes, pies and tarts and letting their sweet and slightly tannic juices tease and please our palates. It really doesn’t matter whether you turn them into a beautifully domed two crust pie or arrange them over a pate brisee in a tart pan or scatter them over a free form galette crust. You’ll still have that incomparable combination of flaky pastry crust and jewel-hued fresh fruit. And of course, in the following recipes the fruits and preparations are interchangeable as long as you adhere to the measurements, so go ahead and do it your way.

Easy Plum-Almond Galette

Easy Plum-Almond Galette

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

For the pastry:

1 1/2 cups flour

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter cut into pieces

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup ice water

For the filling:

1/4 cup + 1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup ground almonds

3 tablespoons flour

2 1/2 pounds plums, washed, halved, pitted and cut into half-inch wedges

3 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into tiny pieces

1/2 cup currant jelly, melted

DIRECTIONS:

For the pastry:

Place flour, butter and salt in bowl of electric food processor; pulse a few times just to blend; add ice water and pulse another few times until dough pulls together and you can still see little pieces of butter. Remove dough from processor, shape into a ball and on a lightly floured surface roll into an oval or circle about 16 to 18″ across and one-eighth-inch thick. Gently transfer to baking sheet. Chill 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 F.

For the filling:

In medium bowl combine a 1/4 cup of sugar, almonds and flour and spread evenly over galette pastry. Arrange plum slices in pattern over flour mixture; dot with butter and sprinkle with remaining one-third cup sugar but leave a two-inch border around edges. Gently fold or roll edges of dough up to meet and form a little wall at edges of fruit. Bake until crust is a deep golden and fruit is tender and bubbling, about one hour. Gently slide knife or spatula under crust to release it from any juices that have caused it to stick. Brush top of fruit and edges of crust with currant jelly. Serve warm or at room temperature with vanilla ice cream or creme fraiche.

Basic Blueberry Tart

Basic Blueberry Tart

YIELD: Makes one 8-inch tart.

INGREDIENTS:

1 stick unsalted butter at room temperature

1 cup flour

Pinch salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 quart blueberries, rinsed and picked over

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon flour

Confectioners’ sugar (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 375 F. In bowl of food processor combine butter, the cup of flour, salt, sugar and vinegar. Pulse until dough comes together but is still pasty. Press evenly into eight-inch spring form tart pan.  Reserve two-thirds cup of berries, then in large bowl combine remaining berries, the one-third cup sugar and tablespoon flour. Pour evenly into tart crust. Bake until filling is bubbly and crust is golden, about 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool, remove from tart pan and sprinkle top with reserved fresh blueberries. Dust with confectioners’ sugar if desired. Serve at room temperature with whipped cream.

Jenny’s Peach Pie

Jenny’s Peach Pie

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

For the pastry:

2 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, diced

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 egg yolk, beaten

1 teaspoon white or cider vinegar

1/4 cup ice water

For the filling:

6 to 8 ripe peaches, sliced (do not peel)

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup flour

DIRECTIONS:

To prepare the crusts, in a food processor pulse together the flour, butter and salt until mixture resembles coarse meal. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk, vinegar and ice water; sprinkle four tablespoons mixture over flour mixture and pulse; if dough does not hold together sprinkle remaining liquid and pulse again.

On a lightly floured surface gather the dough into a ball and knead a few times. Divide dough in half, enclose in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour.

Meanwhile prepare the filling. In a large bowl combine the peaches, lemon juice,  sugar and flour. Preheat oven to 425 F. On a lightly floured surface shape one ball of chilled dough into a disc, then roll out and place in a 9-inch pie plate. Add filling; shape second ball of dough into a disc and roll out; gently center on top of filling. Trim pastry edges and crimp together.

Place in oven for 15 minutes at 425 F, then reduce heat to 375 F and continue to bake until crust is golden and filling is bubbly, about another 40 minutes. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature with peach ice cream.

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Codfish Cakes

By Barbara Beltrami

Years ago up on the Cape, tucked way back from the side of the road, there used to be a little fish shack called Caleb’s. It was tiny, ramshackle and barely visible, but the natives and summer regulars all knew about it and crowded its half dozen or so stools and one picnic table set under a faded yellow umbrella.

At lunchtime it exuded the unmistakable summer aromas of oil, suntan lotion and frying. Caleb was the proprietor, cook, server, and quintessentially an iconic salty old New England cuss. The only things you could get there were fish cakes. And what fish cakes they were! Each day the special was written in crayon and posted on a piece of cardboard taped to the side of the shack next to the counter. It was most often cod, of course, but it could also be swordfish or tuna or clams or scallops or a blend of several varieties or anything over which Caleb could strike a bargain with the local fishermen.

The fish cakes were big, about the size of a large bakery cookie, plump and soft in the middle and crispy around the edges. They came on a Portuguese roll with a scoop of coleslaw, a dollop of tartar sauce and half a lemon.

Caleb is long gone. He seemed ancient way back then, and I know for sure that the fish shack is no longer there. It’s been replaced by a slick pizzeria with a garish sign and a huge parking lot. But the memory of his fish cakes lives on and while nothing will ever measure up to them, here are a few of my humble attempts.

Codfish Cakes

Codfish Cakes

YIELD: Makes 10 large or 20 small patties

INGREDIENTS:

2 pounds fresh cod fillets, skinned and boned

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 1/2 pounds Russet potatoes, pared and diced

1 1/2 cups chopped onion

2 large eggs, well beaten

2 tablespoons prepared Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/3 cup minced flat leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup vegetable oil

DIRECTIONS:

Season the fish with salt and pepper; place on rack of steamer over boiling water; cook until fish flakes easily with a fork, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. In a large pot, cook potatoes and onions in boiling salted water until very tender, about 13 to 15 minutes. Drain and puree with ricer or food mill or mash by hand (do not use electric food processor). Add eggs, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and parsley; combine and beat vigorously; flake fish with a fork, and gently fold into mixture. 

With a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, spread onto a baking sheet, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well-chilled, about one hour. Remove from fridge and shape into patties; dredge with flour and shake off excess. Place half the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat; gently drop patties into hot oil (add remaining oil as needed) and cook until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot with tartar sauce, lemon and cole slaw.

Lobster and Scallop Cakes

Lobster and Scallop Cakes

YIELD: Makes about 6 medium patties

INGREDIENTS:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 pound scallops

1/2 pound lobster meat

1 tablespoon minced flat leaf   parsley leaves

1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives

1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon leaves

1/2 cup bread crumbs

1 garlic clove, minced

Zest of one lemon, finely grated

Freshly squeezed juice of half a lemon

1/2 cup good quality mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons or more extra virgin olive oil or more as needed

DIRECTIONS:

Place butter, scallops, lobster, parsley, chives, tarragon, bread crumbs, garlic and lemon zest in bowl of electric food processor and pulse a few times to chop the seafood but still leave small chunks. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and add the lemon juice, mayonnaise, salt and pepper and cayenne. Form into patties and place on platter or baking sheet, cover tightly with plastic wrap and chill for one hour or until well set. In a large skillet heat oil over medium heat; cook patties until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes each side.  Carefully remove to paper towels and let sit, gently turning once, for two minutes each side. Serve immediately with lemon or sour cream and potato chips.

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Fireworks Cupcakes

By Barbara Beltrami

When it’s not dark enough yet for fireworks or when the fireworks are over and you’re hankering for a nice cup of coffee, it’s time to bring out the dessert. The following recipes are delicious finishes to a long day celebrating our independence They all are patriotically correct red, white and blue and sure to please.

Fireworks Cupcakes

YIELD: Makes about 2 dozen cupcakes

INGREDIENTS: 

For the cupcakes:

1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 2/3 cups sugar

3 egg whites, at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 1/4 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

1 cup vanilla cookie crumbs

For the frosting:

3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

6 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 1/2 tablespoons milk

Red, white and blue sprinkles

Star sprinkles 

DIRECTIONS:

For the cupcake batter:

Preheat oven to 350F. Line 24 cupcake pans with cupcake papers. In a large bowl, cream together butter and sugar. Add one egg white at a time beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla. In another large bowl, thoroughly combine flour, baking powder and salt; add to creamed mixture alternately with milk, beating well after each addition. Fold in cookie crumbs. 

Fill prepared cupcake tins two-thirds full; bake about 22 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in center comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes in pans, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely. 

For the frosting:

In a large bowl combine the butter, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla extract. Add the milk very gradually to form a stiff frosting; beat until smooth. Spread the frosting on cooled cupcakes; top with sprinkles. Serve with coffee, milk or fruit punch.

Fourth of July Pie

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

One baked 9” pastry crust

1 pint raspberry sorbet, softened

2 cups sliced strawberries

1 pint strawberry ice cream, softened

2 cups blueberries

1 cup sweetened whipped cream

DIRECTIONS:

Spread baked pastry crust with raspberry sorbet; top with half the sliced strawberries; and freeze for one hour. Spread strawberry ice cream evenly over the strawberries; top with half the blueberries; freeze two hours. Top with whipped cream; arrange remaining berries in an attractive pattern on top. Let sit in refrigerator half an hour before serving or freeze, covered, for up to 48 hours. Serve with coffee, milk or fruit punch

Strawberry, Raspberry and Blueberry Cornmeal Cobbler

Strawberry, Raspberry and Blueberry Cornmeal Cobbler

YIELD: Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1 pint blueberries

1 pint raspberries

1 pint strawberries, hulled and halved

1/2 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 egg

1 teaspoon vanilla

2/3 cup flour

1/3 cup yellow cornmeal

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 cup milk

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease an 8” x 8” square baking dish. In a large bowl toss together the berries, the half cup sugar and cornstarch.; transfer to baking dish. In a large bowl with mixer on medium speed, beat together the one-third cup sugar and butter until light and fluffy, about 2 to 3 minutes; add egg and vanilla and beat until well blended.

In a small bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. Add half the flour mixture to the butter mixture; beat on low speed just until combined; beat in the milk, then the remaining flour mixture. Drop the dough by spoonfuls onto the berries; bake until berries are bubbly and top is golden, about 45 minutes to one hour. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

 

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By Barbara Beltrami

I think of scallions as the kinder, gentler member of the onion family. They have the flavor without the bitter aftertaste but offer the nuances of an onion-y taste. Suited more to delicate dishes than robust ones, they are especially nice in Asian-style cuisine. The other day I dug a lot of them out of my garden, brought them inside and vigorously washed the dirt off them. Then I trimmed them and laid them in a beautiful pyramid on my cutting board and realized I had more than I could use. Or did I? What about a creamy scallion soup? Or scallion pancakes? Or a scallion salad with radishes, cucumbers and herbs?

Creamy Scallion Soup

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

6 to 7 bunches of scallions

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large potato, peeled and diced

6 cups chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup snipped chives for garnish

DIRECTIONS:

Wash, trim and thinly slice the scallions. In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat melt butter with the olive oil; add scallions and, stirring often, cook until wilted but not browned. Add potato and chicken broth and over medium-high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until potato is mushy; season with salt and pepper. Let soup sit until cooled slightly, about 15 minutes, then puree in food processor until smooth. Stir in cream; garnish with chives and serve hot, warm, at room temperature or cold with crusty bread and a tomato and cucumber salad.

Scallion and Kimchi Pancakes

Scallion and Kimchi Pancakes

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1 cup flour

1/2 cup rice flour

Coarse salt

1 egg, beaten

1 cup sparkling water, seltzer or club soda

6 scallions, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 cup drained kimchi (Korean preserved cabbage)

1/4 cup liquid from kimchi 

1 tablespoon minced fresh red chile pepper

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 300 F. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, rice flour, salt, egg, sparkling water and kimchi liquid. Stir in scallions, kimchi and chile pepper. In an 8″ nonstick skillet heat 1 to 2 teaspoons oil. Ladle half a cup of batter to cover bottom of skillet and form an 8” pancake. Cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes each side; transfer to shallow baking pan or baking sheet and place in oven to keep warm. Repeat procedure with remaining batter. Cut each pancake into quarters and serve hot or warm with Korean dipping sauce. 

Scallion and Herb Salad with Radishes and Cucumbers

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

8 scallions, washed and trimmed, whites and greens separated

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Coarse salt to taste

1 cup fresh cilantro leaves

1 cup fresh arugula

6 to 8 radishes, washed, trimmed and very thinly sliced

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and minced,

1 red chile, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds

DIRECTIONS:

Thinly slice scallion whites. In a large bowl, toss them with rice vinegar, sugar and salt; let sit about 10 minutes. Thinly slice scallion greens. Add them along with cilantro, arugula, radishes, cucumber, red chile, sesame oil and sesame seeds to scallion whites. Toss to combine all ingredients. Serve immediately with fish, poultry, pork or beef.

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Pasta Salad Caprese

By Barbara Beltrami

These times are causing us to rethink how we feed ourselves. Even as the weather brings us outdoors and procuring provisions becomes easier, it is still a challenge to come up with ideas that break away from the same old, same old kitchen fare and backyard barbecue. 

But here’s what you can do: You can park outside your favorite restaurant, order takeout, have it delivered to your car (maintaining all distancing and COVID-19 protocol, of course), and have a tailgate picnic. It will give you a break from your routine and help to support local restaurants and their employees who are struggling to recuperate from their financial losses during the pandemic. 

And if you’re just not up to takeout, but still need a change of scenery for mealtime, here is one of my favorite do-it-yourself picnic menus, tailgate or otherwise, that requires little preparation and the addition only of some fresh summer fruit and a beverage or two. So find an unpopulated space with a nice view and breeze and enjoy a little change of venue. 

Pasta Salad Caprese

Pasta Salad Caprese

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings. 

INGREDIENTS: 

1 pound fusilli, shells or other short pasta

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 garlic clove, bruised

1 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, cubed

1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

1 1/2 cups fresh basil leaves, torn

DIRECTIONS:

Cook pasta according to package directions. While it’s cooking, in a small bowl whisk together the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and garlic clove; set aside. When pasta is ready, drain but do not run cold water over it. Transfer to large bowl. Remove and discard garlic from oil and vinegar mixtures and while pasta is still hot, toss it with the dressing. Let sit at room temperature until ready to serve; add mozzarella, tomatoes, basil and more salt and pepper; toss again and serve immediately with frittata and wine or lemonade.

Artichoke, Asparagus and Spinach Frittata

YIELD: Makes 4 servings. 

INGREDIENTS: 

1 pound fresh baby artichokes, outer leaves trimmed

6 extra large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup snipped fresh chives

3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 cups fresh spinach leaves

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 large shallot, minced

1/2 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into one-inch pieces

DIRECTIONS:

Sprinkle artichoke hearts generously with salt and steam until very tender, about 15 minutes. Immerse in cold water. In medium bowl beat eggs vigorously with salt, pepper, herbs and cheese; stir in spinach leaves. Preheat oven to 400 F. In a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat warm oil, add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until onion starts to wilt, a couple of minutes. Add artichokes and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes

Pour in egg mixture and swirl pan to distribute evenly; distribute asparagus pieces evenly over top. Shake the skillet gently and tilt the pan while lifting the edges gently with a spatula so that liquid from center runs to outside edge of pan. Reduce heat to low, repeat tilting-lifting procedure every two minutes and cook till eggs are nearly set, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer frittata to upper third of oven and monitoring carefully, cook until top is light golden, about 3 minutes. Remove from oven, slide or invert onto plate, and when somewhat cooled, cover with aluminum foil. Cut into wedges and serve hot, warm or at room temperature with pasta salad and wine or lemonade.

Oatmeal and Dried Cherry Cookies

Oatmeal and Dried Cherry Cookies

YIELD: Makes 4 dozen

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 cup plus 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

3 cups old-fashioned uncooked oats

1 cup dried cherries, chopped

DIRECTIONS:

Heat oven to 350 F. In a large bowl with mixer on medium speed, beat butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar until fluffy and creamy; add eggs and vanilla and beat well. In another medium bowl, combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon and salt; add to butter mixture; mix well. Add oatmeal and dried cherries; mix well. Drop by rounded tablespoonfuls onto ungreased cookie sheet; bake until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool one minute on cookie sheet, then finish cooling on wire rack. Store in airtight covered container.

 

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Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp

By Barbara Beltrami

There are certain magical combinations in the food world. Some are because their flavors or qualities complement each other, some are because they are what the earth and the barn and the sea provide, and some are because they grow and ripen simultaneously. And so it is with strawberries and rhubarb which are at their peak right now and abound at farm stands and in markets. The sweetness of the former and tartness of the latter form a perfect pair, particularly in desserts. 

While strawberry-rhubarb pie may be the most well known one, there are some others that are just as mouth-watering, maybe more so, than that old standby.  One is a strawberry-rhubarb custard pie where the creaminess of the custard is a perfect foil for the sweet-tartness of  the fruit. Another is a roll where cake and syrup create a perfect pair, especially when topped with whipped cream.  And finally, a strawberry-rhubarb crisp gives crunchiness to counter the soft fruit. They are all recipes that I remember from way back when.

Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp

Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp

YIELD: Makes 8 servings. 

INGREDIENTS:

3/4 cup flour

2/3 cup plus 1/2 cup sugar

Generous pinch salt

3/4 stick chilled unsalted butter, diced

1/2 cup old-fashioned oats

1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts or almonds

Finely grated zest of one lemon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 quart strawberries, washed, hulled and halved

3/4 pound rhubarb, washed, trimmed and cut into 1/2” slices

DIRECTIONS:

In medium bowl, thoroughly combine flour, 2/3 cup sugar and salt. With fingertips or pastry blender, work in butter until mixture resembles coarse oatmeal. Add oats and nuts and blend thoroughly. Preheat oven to 375 F. Grease or butter an 8 or 9” square nonreactive baking dish. In a medium bowl combine the one half cup sugar, lemon zest, vanilla extract, strawberries and rhubarb. Transfer to prepared baking dish; sprinkle oat mixture on top. Bake until filling is bubbly and top is golden and crisp, about 45 minutes. Serve hot or warm with vanilla ice cream or yogurt or whipped cream.

Strawberry-Rhubarb Roll

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings. 

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup water

2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/3 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup milk

1 cup washed, hulled strawberries, halved

1 cup diced, trimmed washed rhubarb

1 /2 tablespoon cinnamon

 DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 400 F. In a medium saucepan combine one cup sugar with water. Boil 5 minutes,  until sugar is completely dissolved. Pour into an 8” x 8” baking dish. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, salt, one tablespoon of remaining sugar and baking powder. With fingertips or a pastry blender, work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal. Stir in milk just until mixture is thoroughly moistened. Turn onto lightly floured board and knead 30 seconds. Roll into a 8” x 15” rectangle; spread with fruit; combine remaining sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle over fruit. Starting at the long end, roll like a jellyroll. Cut into 8 to 12 slices and place in syrup in baking dish. Bake until done, about 20 to 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm with whipped cream.  

Strawberry-Rhubarb Custard Pie

Strawberry-Rhubarb Custard Pie

YIELD: Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

Pastry for a 9” two crust pie

2 cups fresh strawberries, washed, hulled and halved (or quartered) depending on size

2 cups washed and trimmed rhubarb, cut into 1 inch pieces

1 1/4 cups sugar

3 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1  tablespoon unsalted butter

2 eggs, lightly beaten

DIRECTIONS:

Line pie plate with two-thirds of the pastry. Preheat oven to 400 F. Combine strawberries and rhubarb and place in pastry-lined pie plate. In a medium bowl combine, sugar, flour and nutmeg. Cut butter into tiny pieces and add, along with eggs, to flour mixture. Mix well. Pour mixture over fruit in pie plate. Roll out remaining third of pastry dough, cut into half-inch strips and arrange in lattice design over pie filling. Place pie in oven; immediately reduce heat to 350 F. Bake until rhubarb is tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

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By Barbara Beltrami

It’s spring! And that means getting out in the garden and planting things to please the palate as much as the eye. This year more than ever cultivating a garden has become a particularly popular pastime as we eagerly gravitate to the great outdoors after our long winter’s hibernation and isolation. There’s something so rewarding and satisfying about planting tiny seeds or sprouts and watching them grow into mature edibles. 

Early seasonals like spinach, peas and lettuce that don’t mind the cold weather are the first to gratify our efforts, and not far behind are herbs. Some are perennials and start peeking through the soil early on; a few are annuals and need to be replenished every year, but all are fragrant, flavorful and pretty edibles that keep on giving right into the fall and are welcome plants that can be used fresh or dried on their own or as additions and enhancements to other dishes.

Herbed Popcorn

Here’s something to happily crunch on while you’re binge-watching TV. You can even omit the butter and probably won’t even miss it.

YIELD: Makes about 4 quarts

INGREDIENTS:

2 tablespoons vegetable or corn oil

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon dried basil

1 tablespoon dried dill

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup popcorn kernels

Finely ground sea salt to taste

1/4 cup melted unsalted butter

DIRECTIONS:

In a small skillet, heat the oil over medium heat for 30 to 45 seconds, until it starts to shimmer. Turn off heat, add herbs and pepper, stir and let sit about 20 minutes so the oil can absorb their flavors. Pop the popcorn in the microwave, an air popper or by your favorite method. Immediately transfer to a very large pot or bowl and combine it with the herb mixture, salt and melted butter. Serve immediately with soda, beer or wine.

Herb Salad I

Chop up some of these flavorful leaves for your next salad. Dress with a simple vinaigrette to enhance but not mask their flavors.

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups mixture of dill, mint, parsley, lovage, and basil

3 cups mixed baby salad greens

1 carrot, shredded

4 radishes, washed, trimmed and very thinly sliced

1 scallion, trimmed and very thinly sliced

1 cup thinly sliced grape tomatoes

 DIRECTIONS: 

In large bowl toss ingredients with your favorite vinaigrette. Serve at room temperature with seafood, pasta, fish, poultry or meat.

Herb Salad II

Herb Salad II

YIELD: Makes 4 to 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups torn butter or Bibb lettuce

3 cups fresh flat leaf parsley leaves

3 cups fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup fresh snipped chives

1/2 cup fresh snipped garlic chives

1/2 cup fresh tarragon leaves

1 cup fresh chervil, chopped

1 cup fresh nasturtium leaves

2 cups diced fennel bulb with leaves

Nasturtium and chive flowers for garnish

DIRECTIONS:

In large bowl toss ingredients with vinaigrette. Just before serving, garnish with flowers. Serve immediately with seafood, fish, pasta, poultry or meat.

Mixed Herb Pesto

Herbed Pesto

If you like the traditional basil pesto, you’ll also like pestos made from other herbs. 

YIELD: Makes 3/4 to 1 cup.

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups mixed tender herbs such as basil, cilantro, parsley, tarragon or mint

1 cup fresh baby spinach

1 garlic clove, chopped

1/4 cup shelled almonds or pistachios

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

In bowl of electric food processor, puree all ingredients together to form a smooth paste. Serve at room temperature with pasta, meat, poultry, fish or seafood. 

Herbed Salt

Herbed Salt

Make this up in large batches so you’ll have some to give as gifts.

YIELD: Makes about 2 cups

INGREDIENTS: 

10 sprigs of a mixture of sage, oregano, rosemary and thyme

2 cups kosher salt

DIRECTIONS:

Remove thick stems, then coarsely chop remaining leaves and small stems. Place in bowl of food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to medium bowl and thoroughly combine with salt. Transfer to airtight container. Store in a cool dry place. Serve with anything that requires salt.

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By Barbara Beltrami

Most likely, it’s not going to be a traditional Memorial Day barbecue this year. No backyard crowded with family and friends and neighbors bearing salad bowls and foil covered platters. No cooler filled with beer and soda on the deck. No trays of hot dogs and hamburgers. Just you and your family or maybe even just you. So … since it’s going to be a different kind of day anyway, why not dispense with the usual menu and go for something different but very easy? How about steak with butter and garlic sauce? Chicken under a brick? A watermelon, feta, arugula and tomato salad? Grilled potatoes and Vidalia onions? And to remember the red, white and blue, how about a strawberry, blueberry and vanilla ice cream tart for dessert?

Watermelon, Avocado, Feta, Arugula and Tomato Salad

YIELD: Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS: 

1 ripe avocado, peeled and cubed

Freshly squeezed juice of one lemon

4 cups diced watermelon

4 ounces diced feta cheese

4 cups arugula, washed, dried and coarsely chopped

2 large tomatoes, diced

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

In a small bowl, toss avocado with lemon juice; set aside. In a large salad bowl, toss together the watermelon, feta, arugula and tomato. Just before serving, add the avocado, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper to the watermelon mixture. Toss to thoroughly coat with oil and vinegar. Serve with steak, chicken or any grilled meat or poultry and grilled potatoes and onions.

Steak with Garlic Butter Sauce

YIELD: Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS: 

One 2-3 pound boneless steak

Coarse salt and black pepper, to taste

4 ounces unsalted butter, softened

2 ounces unsalted butter melted

4 cloves garlic, chopped

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat grill to hot. Rub steak generously with salt and pepper. Smear one side with two ounces of the softened. Grill, buttered side down, until browned on that side, about 5 to 7 minutes; turn and smear top with remaining softened butter; sprinkle with half the garlic and grill until meat reaches desired doneness. For medium rare, a thermometer should read 135 F, for medium, 140 F, for medium well, 145 F (4 to 7 minutes per side). Reheat melted butter with remaining two minced cloves garlic. Slice steak and drizzle with melted butter mixture. Serve hot with salad and grilled potatoes and onions.

Chicken Under a Brick

YIELD: Makes 2 to 4 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1 small chicken, split down the breastbone and pounded flat

Freshly squeezed juice of one lemon

1 garlic clove,  minced

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves

4 tablespoons olive oil

Coarse salt and ground pepper to taste

1 ordinary brick wrapped in foil

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat grill to medium-low. Rub all ingredients well into chicken’s skin. Place chicken on grill, weight down with brick and cook until crisp and golden, about 20 minutes each side, or until juices run clear. Serve with grilled potatoes and Vidalia onions and salad

Grilled Baby Potatoes and Vidalia Onions

YIELD: Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS: 

2 – 3  pounds baby potatoes, scrubbed 

2 Vidalia onions, peeled and sliced thin

1/2 cup olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

DIRECTIONS:

Prick potato skins with a fork. In a large saucepan, parboil the potatoes in salted water until they’re still slightly hard in the center; drain. In a large bowl combine them with the onions, olive oil, salt and pepper. Let sit for 30 minutes until they have absorbed all the oil. Meanwhile, preheat grill to medium-high. Transfer potatoes and onions to grill basket and grill until potatoes are cooked through and onions start to brown. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot or warm with steak, chicken or any grilled meat or poultry and salad.

Red, White and Blue Tart

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1 pie crust, pre-baked

1 quart vanilla ice cream, softened

1/2 pint strawberries, washed, hulled and sliced

1/2 pint blueberries, washed and drained

1/2 pint raspberries, washed and drained

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup confectioners’ sugar

DIRECTIONS:

Spread ice cream evenly in pie crust.  Cover and freeze. Twenty minutes before serving, remove from freezer. In a  medium bowl, toss berries with granulated sugar, then sprinkle or arrange them over ice cream; dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve immediately with iced coffee, iced tea or lemonade.

 

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Lobster Roll. Photo from METRO

By Barbara Beltrami

When I think of visiting a place it’s as much about the food as the sights. It’s the sweet anticipation of squid ink pasta in Venice or a real barbecue in Wyoming or pastry in Vienna or gumbo in New Orleans. 

It’s walking in the alleyways of little towns and smelling dinner cooking, going to an open air market and picking out just caught fish, just picked veggies, just baked crusty bread. It’s dining in a waterfront restaurant and slurping oysters with a chilled Sancerre or having an espresso at an outdoor café and people watching or picnicking in a field of lavender in Provence. It’s hearing distant music and laughter and the clinking of glasses, watching native people carry dinner home on  bicycles, in baskets on their heads or in string bags along cobbled streets. It’s sipping cocktails high up in a sky-scraper and watching the city light up. And it’s passing sidewalks where people squat on their haunches, drink tea and eat bowls of rice. 

But not this year nor any time soon. Leafing through cookbooks, remembering and fantasizing must suffice. And so I become not quite an armchair traveler but a kitchen chair traveler as I sit at the table, poring through and longingly ogling the photos and reminiscing their provenance. Sooner or later I zero in on a recipe, then try to approximate it and time travel back to its memory and taste. Here are a few I was reasonably successful with.

Quiche from a Picnic in Provence

Quiche

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

Nonstick cooking spray

Pie crust for 8-inch spring form tart pan

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 onions, diced

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 bunch asparagus, washed, trimmed and cut into one-inch pieces

2 tomatoes, diced

2 large eggs

1 cup cream

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Dash nutmeg

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 375 F. Spray tart pan with nonstick cooking spray. Line with pastry crust and trim. Set on baking sheet. In a medium skillet warm oil over medium heat; add onions, garlic, parsley, thyme, asparagus, and tomatoes. Sauté, stirring frequently, until onions are opaque, asparagus is tender, and tomatoes are mushy, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to pie crust. In a small bowl, beat together the eggs, cream, salt and pepper and nutmeg. Pour over sautéed veggies. Bake until knife inserted in center of quiche comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature with a delicate green salad.

Lobster Roll from a Maine Lobster Shack

Lobster Roll. Photo from METRO

YIELD: Makes 2 to 4 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1 pound fresh lobster meat, cut into bite-size pieces

1/2 cup good quality mayonnaise

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 inner celery stalks with leaves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 to 4 top-split hot dog rolls, lightly toasted

DIRECTIONS:

In medium bowl, thoroughly combine lobster, mayonnaise, lemon juice, celery, parsley and salt and pepper. Brush insides of rolls with melted butter; heap with lobster mixture. Serve immediately with iced tea and potato chips.

Apple Strudel from a Café in Budapest

Apple Strudel

YIELD: Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS: 

1 1/4 cups apple juice

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/2 pounds Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

1/2 cup raisins

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

4 sheets phyllo dough

1/3 cup melted unsalted butter plus 2 tablespoons

3 tablespoons bread crumbs

Confectioners’ sugar

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 450 F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In small bowl, whisk together one-quarter cup of apple juice with cornstarch. In large saucepan over medium heat combine the remaining cup apple juice, apples, raisins, sugar, cinnamon and walnuts and cook, stirring frequently, until apples are tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add cornstarch mixture and stir constantly until smooth; simmer until apple mixture thickens, about one minute. 

Remove from heat; cover and cool. Meanwhile  lay out one sheet phyllo dough, brush with one-third of the butter( not counting the two tablespoons), then sprinkle with one-third bread crumbs; repeat procedure with 2 more sheets phyllo dough; top with fourth sheet phyllo dough, spread with cooled apple mixture, leaving half an inch border on all sides. Tucking in ends, roll into log and brush with remaining two tablespoons butter. 

Carefully transfer strudel, seam side down, to baking sheet; bake until light golden, about 15 minutes; remove from oven and let cool before slicing into two-inch pieces. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve with whipped cream and hot coffee.

 

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Hollandaise Sauce. Stock photo

By Barbara Beltrami

The five classic sauces that are often called  the Mother Sauces of French cuisine are béchamel, velouté, espagnole, hollandaise and tomate. From them are derived many other sauces that we’ve all most likely tasted at one time or another. 

The béchamel is that creamy white sauce made from a roux of butter and flour with hot milk and with cheese added becomes a Mornay sauce. A velouté is another creamy white sauce made from meat or fish stock, cream and egg yolks. That brings us to hollandaise, a blend of egg yolks, butter and lemon juice or vinegar. A sauce espagnole rarely used on its own but often as a base for other sauces is a rich emulsion of a dark brown roux, browned bones and meat, vegetables, brown sugar and various seasonings. And finally is the one we’re probably most familiar with, sauce tomate, which consists of pork, a roux, herbs and seasonings and of course, tomatoes. 

Why am I telling you all this? Because there’s nothing like a savory classic sauce to jazz up an otherwise ordinary dish. And because for Mother’s Day and every day, Mom deserves something jazzy and elegant crowned by one of the Five Mother Sauces. Fancy names aside, these pillars of French cuisine aren’t famous and popular for nothing. Here are three of those five sauces for you to try.

Béchamel Sauce

Béchamel Sauce

YIELD: Makes about 2 to 2 1/4 cups

INGREDIENTS: 

2 cups milk

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons flour

Pinch nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, scald the milk, then put over very low heat to keep it hot. In another medium saucepan melt butter over low heat and when it is bubbling, whisk in flour, nutmeg and salt and pepper and cook 3 to 4 minutes until golden. Whisking constantly, pour in milk slowly but steadily and keep whisking and stirring until sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes. Use for creamed veggies, mac and cheese, lasagna, moussaka or anything that would taste better with a cream sauce.

For variation: Whisk in 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese to make a Mornay sauce.

Hollandaise Sauce

Hollandaise Sauce

YIELD: Makes about 2/3 cup

INGREDIENTS: 

8 ounces unsalted butter

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon water

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice or to taste

DIRECTIONS:

Set a large saucepan with a few inches of water on low heat to simmer. Place butter in a glass measuring cup and set in simmering water until butter is melted, but don’t let water come to top or get inside cup. Carefully skim white residue off top, reserve clear yellow liquid and discard white on bottom of cup. In a small saucepan, using a wire whisk, vigorously beat egg yolks with a tablespoon of water. Place saucepan in a larger saucepan of simmering water, beating constantly, and, continuing to beat constantly, add clear yellow liquid from butter. Keep over simmering water and continue to beat until mixture thickens and has the consistency of a thick liquid. Stir in salt and pepper and lemon juice; combine thoroughly and serve immediately over poached eggs, steamed asparagus, cooked lobster pieces or crabmeat or poached salmon 

Sauce Velouté

Sauce Velouté

YIELD: Makes about 2 cups

INGREDIENTS: 

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons flour

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 cups hot chicken broth

DIRECTIONS:

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Stir in flour, salt and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, two minutes. Whisk in chicken broth, half a cup at a time, until smooth.  Bring mixture to a low boil, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes, until thick and smooth. Serve over fish, shellfish, or poultry with a delicate green salad.

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